The Chanel Medallion Tote
Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s love for large gold coin medallions was the inspiration behind the Medallion tote, prominently featuring a gleaming jewelry-like zipper pull. The Chanel Medallion tote is a favorite among collectors for its sturdy all-leather design, classic quilting, large CC motif on the front, round leather handles and its namesake medallion zipper pull. The Medallion premiered around the early 2000s when It bags became part of the popular culture and celebrities became influential in making bags best sellers.
Chanel discontinued the slim yet spacious square-shaped tote in 2013, but it’s readily available on the resale market.
Materials and Craftsmanship of the Chanel Medallion
Available in one size, the Medallion tote measures approximately 12.5” x 10” x 6”, with a 6.5” handle drop. Collectors can find pre-owned versions of the Medallion tote in caviar leather, lambskin, patent, suede and velvet. Caviar leather is the most common leather type for the Medallion, made of pebbled calfskin leather with a bubbly appearance and significant texture. Caviar leather is more durable than lambskin or suede. Black and beige were the most common colors released, though the House also produced the tote in blue, yellow, purple, pink, white and brown. The hardware will be gold-tone or silver-tone. Without anything in it, the Medallion weighs about 1.5 lbs.
Known for its superb craftsmanship of leather goods, including precision stitching, perfect alignment of quilting, jewelry-like hardware and high-end leather, every Chanel bag is made with meticulous care and inspected thoroughly from the first to the last step of creation. The Medallion tote is one of the few Chanel bags made of luxurious leather inside and out to maintain its shape through the years. The diamond quilted leather creates that characteristic ‘puffiness’ signature to an authentic Chanel handbag. A mint condition Chanel Medallion bag will have puffy quilted leather and rigid handles that have yet to soften.
Inspiration Behind the Medallion Tote
Gabrielle’s world shaped every design element of this Chanel handbag. For example, the quilted diamond pattern is believed to have been inspired by several sources: jockeys' riding coats, the stained-glass windows of the abbey at Aubazine where she grew up and the cushions in Chanel's Paris apartment.
Chanel was one of the first brands to sell high-end fashion jewelry for the general public to purchase, making jewelry an iconic component of its highly recognizable look. The Medallion tote features a gold coin, said to be inspired by a heartfelt gift given to Gabrielle: a gold Egyptian medallion on a long chain, engraved in Arabic with the ‘Verse of the Throne’ from the Koran. Gabrielle wore the medallion in her jacket pocket, held close to her body and hidden away, allowing only the necklace’s chain to show.
Inspired by this detail, the gold medallion zipper pull on the Medallion tote can be hidden or left dangling for the world to see. The round metal medallion features a CC logo with a chain detail around the perimeter, and it hangs from hammered-metal chain links. Inside the bag, another round zipper pull features a small CC logo and opens a pocket for safely storing accessories.
The Chanel Medallion Tote’s Value and Collectibility
Like all Chanel bags, Medallion totes hold their value and can sell at a premium on the resale market, depending on condition and other factors. In early 2021, pre-owned Chanel Medallion bags fetched between $400 and $1,500 at eBay auctions.
The Chanel Medallion tote is highly sought after by collectors around the world looking for vintage Chanel handbags. The tote stands the test of time with its structure and aesthetic, remaining a classic wardrobe investment. Like all Chanel pieces, it’s the perfect gift to give someone who’s looking to add an heirloom to their collection.