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Reviews (17)
May 23, 2018
Works well
Symptoms: The freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm. Check for ICE build up in the return vent and in this top supply vent. Check to see if the door in this top vent is open. If it is always closed then this part may have a problem. Do not force the door open or it may break.
Symptoms: Freezer and refrigerator are too cold and the entire refrigerator never turns off. The two thermistors (little gray plastic knobs on the end of the wires) in this part may be bad or have a bad connection. Replacing this part fixed this problem for me.
Dec 27, 2016
Works well
It works as it should and the data sheet is available on-line. I measured the output off current at about 0.1 microamps which is more than a relay (0.0 microamps) but within my acceptable range. Everything else I looked at is within the data sheet ranges.
Jul 15, 2017
Two ways to use this, know the difference.
Comes with five 10 Amp fuses. There is a straight crimp connector with one side uncrimped
for the new circuit. The slots are fairly tight. Remove your fuse and it into the two slots closest to the metal plugs. The second fuse slot away from the metal plug is for the new wire. The metal plug away from the wire and the two fuse slots away from the wire are all connected together. There are two ways to use this adapter. The first way is to put the fuse so that the plug away from the wire connects closest to the car battery. In this way the original fuse protects the original circuit and the new fuse independently protects the new circuit. The second way is to put the fuse so that the plug away from the wire connects to the slot away from the battery. This way the current goes through both fuses and shares the load with the original fuse. Here, the new fuse can not be bigger than the original fuse and the new circuit will add to the load of the original circuit. Your choice may also depend on space constraints.