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Reviews (3)
Sep 23, 2022
Not actually genuine, but might as well be.
1 of 1 found this helpful This is an F1512 OEM Midfake. They're made with the genuine molds but without Takara Tomy's approval.
That being said, there are very few differences between F1512 midfakes and genuine Takara Tomy beys, so these are fine unless you're a collector of genuine beyblades. They'll usually perform close to identical to the official products and they're even allowed in tournaments.
I don't have an arena yet so I haven't been able to properly test this, but in a makeshift arena made with a deep paper plate it works as expected. Good endurance and lots of knockback. You can also really feel its weight compared to other beys.
Feb 26, 2023
Not the best sound, but an excellent budget N-scale steamer
First off, keep in mind this is NOT a top-end model. They are decently well-detailed but the sound decoder is a budget unit, which is fitting because these are budget models. If you buy one of these you are NOT paying for a TCS WOW-Sound equipped model, so you should NOT expect TCS WOW-Sound sound quality. I wanted to get this out of the way first.
Long story short, these are great runners. Being small N-scale models they are sensitive to uneven trackwork and require live frogs on turnouts. However, while most N-scale models tend to be underpowered and run poorly, this is not one of them. The die-cast metal frame and boiler helps with adhesive force, allowing it to pull a surprising amount of rolling stock considering its small size and low number of drive wheels. This model "punches" well above its weight class, outperforming plastic models of significantly larger steam locomotives especially grades as a result. I can get mine to pull around 12 cars on flat track, or about half that on a relatively steep grade.
It also has really good slow-speed performance, crawling at incredibly low speeds at relatively low throttle settings due to its worm gear drive and short gear ratio. As a side effect, the model also stays within scale speed ranges for the original prototype without needing any extra decoder programming. Because of this, I actually recommend this as a good first N-scale steam locomotive for kids graduating from their starter sets to something DCC controlled, or who want to run trains with their parents on big layouts, since even at full throttle this locomotive doesn't really go all that fast.
The model has some really good static detail, right down to the rivets on the cab and even some interior detailing despite the fact that the motor housing takes up the entire cab. I'm not sure how accurate the model is to its prototype, a late-era rebuild of an 1845 Baldwin 4-4-0, but overall it looks pretty good. The one detail it's missing is valve gear, but on a budget model like this that's not a huge loss.
Having DCC at all in a steam locomotive of this size is a big deal. Small steam locomotives in N-scale are rare, ones with DCC preinstalled are even rarer and ones with sound are practically unicorns. Still, I have to note that the sound quality could be better. It's difficult to get good sound quality out of a small locomotive like this, since you have to squeeze a tiny decoder AND speaker into the tender. However, that's not the only factor at play here. The MRC sound decoder is loaded with very basic, low-quality samples that do the job but nothing else. The decoder is also pretty basic in terms of functions - you directional lighting (although the model only has one light), rule 17, a bell, a very generic-sounding whistle, coupling and decoupling sounds, and a few operational sound effects that play at random including a safety valve and shoveling coal.
All in all, this is a very good small N-scale steamer. It's not a must-have nor is it a collector's item, but for a budget option for small layouts or fleet building it's a good pick if you can get it for MSRP or less.
Dec 20, 2021
A great model of the RhB GE 2/4
1 of 1 found this helpful A solid, well detailed model of the RhB GE 2/4 Elektrolok. An excellent runner at all speeds. Pantographs are manually actuated, unlike later versions of this model. The rear pantograph is even fully functional, capable of picking up power from overhead catenary lines. The pushrod assemblies are single piece, which isn't perfectly accurate but works for the purposes of this model as there are no internal drivecams inside the cab for the vertical pushrod linkages.