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Reviews (15)
Apr 18, 2018
Good for the money DIY electronic box
Excellent DIY instrument box. Good size. Plastic OK quality for the money's worth.
Shipping has no packaging protection. For mine, the plastic handle is broken in transit. Also shows that brittle plastic is used, rather than stronger slight flexible material is used, but good enough for the money. Can't ask too much.
I use it for 0-30V2A power supply (22V power brick, variable boost-and-buck switch regulator module with display). Add oscilloscope module to the box too. I also stick a pouch on the box top for wires, cables, connectors and probes. Perfect for bench, and easy transportation too.
Sep 11, 2019
Better than expected
Pro:
1. Touch on/off still depends on humidity, how dry your finger, etc. but it is solid and toggles cleanly. You may need to maintain the touch as long as 1/3 to 1/2 second in certain cases.
2. Tested: can work on ANY non-dimmable/dimmable light bulbs: LED, fluorescent, filament.
3. Can handle light bulbs up to 72W/120Vac or 132W/220Vac. That is, best suited for LED and florescent bulbs. For incandescent, filament, bulb, limit it below 72W/120Vac.
4. Can handle 8A surge, 0.6A-RMS, 400V rating on the MAC97A6 triac (as a solid-state switch).
5. Already on-board option to replace MAC97A6 with BT136 triac (600V 4A continuous, 25A surge).
6. The safety design on the touch sensing node: It is isolated by 2 in series 1000V ceramic small value capacitors (0.01uF each). Or, the total sense current is 63uA only, very safe. Two caps in series as double safety to assure isolation.
Con:
1. Wiring instruction: poor, but diagram on plastic box is clear. Only experienced DIY will know which wire is hot side.
2. Board design does not have better clearance between high and low Voltage copper traces.
3. The high Voltage hot side of AC input copper trace is on the edge of the board. So the only safety protection is the plastic box itself.
Remedy: Tape/wrap the box with electrical tape, or glue, so that box won't be accidentally open.
Wiring instruction for USA 120Vac:
Brown wire = Neutral, to USA White wire from AC outlet. Also tied together to light bulb outer ring contact (White wire of the bulb socket)
Red wire = HOT, to USA Black wire from AC outlet
White wire = to the load, such as to the center/tip contact of the light bulb (Black wire of the bulb socket). This would be electrically connected to the Red wire, when the switch is on.
Yellow wire = touch sensor, to the lamp metal body or any metal for touch sensing.
If no way to screw the yellow wire or its metal ring to metal body, you may use Aluminum adhesive tape to securely tape the yellow wire to the metal body. Make sure also tape a good portion of the yellow wire, not just the bare wire or the metal ring. This assures no movement of the yellow wire that may, over time, let loose the contact. Aluminum tape is air-duct tape sold in house building supply home depot.
Other: For the price, it's great value/price ratio.
Sep 17, 2019
At 120VAC: Short dim range, cannot be 100% (only 80%). Solution provided here.
1 of 1 found this helpful Pro:
Very low cost. Compact. It works. The capacitor, 0.068uF, is 100V only. It is clamped by the Diac+Vgate of Triac, about 34V: clever.
Not mentioned/disclosed: The triac is MAC97A6, a 0.6A device, or 72W max for 120VAC. You can change it to BT136, a 4A triac, increasing to 480W at 120VAC
Con:
Basic design is for 220VAC. Though adaptable to120VAC as is, performance suffers.
For 120VAC:
Dim range suffers. Can only be at 80% bright at max. Shorter dim range as well.
Solution for 120VAC application:
Parallel a 707k-Ohm with the 450k pot (the VR, variable resistor) so that it is now 275k. Parallel a 5.3k-Ohm with the 100k, to get 5k. This resistor is in series with the VR. When VR is turned full clockwise, VR=0 Ohm. This resistor limits the max gate drive current to the Triac.