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Reviews (4)
Nov 13, 2020
Excellent LED's for HO model train headlights
Most excellent LED's for HO model train headlights, nice and bright with perfect warm white color. They fit comfortably epoxied into a 0.036" hole drilled into either oem plastic headlight lenses or a short 0.060" fiber. You can also use them directly in place of grain-of-wheat bulbs with no lenses at all as long as the LED's are not touching metal. Wires are thin, flexible, tough and easy to fit inside loco's. You can wire 2 of them in series for dual headlights and use a single 1K ohm resistor (i.e., 2 LEDS + a 1K in front and 2 LED's and a 1K for the rear). I put the lenses or bare led's loose in the headlight hole, tack them in place with adhesive putty over their wires and then anchor the wires semi-permanently to the inside of the shell using a drop of epoxy. Voila, easy, non-destructive replacement in case of problems, although I haven't had a bad one yet. Keep making more, please!
If you can make them fit, they should do fine in other gauges and types of models as well.
Feb 08, 2019
Marklin Traction Tires are bar none, the best !
I have about a hundred HO locos with traction tires running on 2-1/2% grades. I own a mini-lathe with a setup dedicated to cutting the grooves for tires. I've tried various brands of traction tires and found these to be the most uniform in thickness and width and best in quality of material and durability. They're easy to install and tolerant of the stretching and abrasion that occurs during installation. They provide consistent traction, are never out-of-round or bumpy and none has ever fallen off a wheel. Best of all, my locos haul heavy trains like mad. - L Arellano
Oct 28, 2021
Excellent results on chain saw bar
Product worked exactly as expected to square up the groove edges on my Stihl chainsaw bar. I attached the file to a wood block with 2 tiny blobs of fun-tak, laid the bar on a 1/16" piece of G20 and slid the block with file across the bar edges. I rough filed the sharp ridges down with a coarse file and then finished it with a fine file. Had to bend the file handles about 10-15 degrees and shave them a little to get clearance and better contact, not a problem. Results were much more accurate and smoother than free-hand grinding on a carborundum wheel. The files cut the hard bar faster and easier than a steel file, while barely taking any wear.