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TEXTILES OF JAPAN By Thomas Murray & Virginia Soenksen - Hardcover **BRAND NEW**

Mar 23, 2021

Came for the textiles, stayed for the white guy

Though nothing can replace seeing a textile in person, (and maybe holding it in your own hands if you are lucky), this book truly is the next best option. The inclusion of Ainu and Okinawan textiles elevates this book in terms of inclusivity and cultural value. There are several pull-out sections that showcase large-format, high-resolution photos of different garments. That said, the exposition sections of this book cannot quite escape traces of Orientalism, especially due to the curator of the garment collection. Thomas Murray is certainly an authority on textiles of certain regions of Asia, but he is also a pretentious former hippie who believes we are all a shamanic journey and acid trip away from enlightenment (if you are curious, he literally says this in the introduction to the Ainu textiles). If anything, his delightfully oblivious opinions make this book even better, since outlandish personalities make for interesting subjects, but he ends up revealing more about himself than the textiles included. The other authors take great pains to keep this work generally apolitical, but this is something of an impossible task as Japanese conceptions of mingei or "folk art" are heavily tied into the nationalist projects of pre-WWII Japan. Japan has also subjugated the Ainu and Okinawans for literal centuries, so it is somewhat laughable to think that all these textiles, once worn by real people who were likely in conflict, are hanging out together in harmony. In any case, I still highly recommend this text, but I also recommend supplemental reading to gain more context about the cultures included. Kim Brandt's "Kingdom of Beauty: Mingei and the Politics of Folk Art in Imperial Japan" is a great place to start.

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