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    Location: United StatesMember since: Feb 11, 2013

    All feedback (56)

    • miniduino (354052)- Feedback left by buyer.
      More than a year ago
      Verified purchase
      Great communication. A pleasure to do business with.
    • byteology6 (5190)- Feedback left by buyer.
      More than a year ago
      Verified purchase
      Thank you for an easy, pleasant transaction. Excellent buyer. A++++++.
    • 225fwy (147577)- Feedback left by buyer.
      Past year
      Verified purchase
      Thank you so much for your business, we truely appreciate it and hope you enjoy
    • temco_industrial (212854)- Feedback left by buyer.
      Past year
      Verified purchase
      Quick payment, quality transaction, come back anytime!
    • domitronic (29550)- Feedback left by buyer.
      Past year
      Verified purchase
      Fast Payment, Good buyer, hope to Deal with you again.
    • cerepros (14716)- Feedback left by buyer.
      Past year
      Verified purchase
      Quick response and fast payment. Perfect! THANKS!!
    Reviews (3)
    JEEP DODGE RAM WITH 241 242 271 TRANSFER CASE POSITION INDICATOR SWITCH MOPAR
    Feb 13, 2023
    Genuine Mopar OEM 'fit' Part
    It is still available, (is not 'discontinued like many Mopar Parts for a 20 year old vehicle). Is a direct Mopar OEM 'fit' replacement for the NV242 Transfer Case in my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I expect it to last for many years. Most aftermarket parts for applications that have very specific specification requirements, like this 'Genuine Mopar Parts' Switch has, and have inputs that have varying values and are directly wired to the PCM, are almost never as high quality and even if the aftermarket part meets the specification requirements when first installed, they usually under-preform and do not last as long when compared to 'Genuine Mopar OEM 'fit' Parts'. NOTE: the part numbers on the part do not show as same part number as Mopar part number, but it did come in a Mopar box with a stick-on Mopar label on the box and it even had "Made in United States" on that label. The box had been opened before I got it, but the part was brand new and was in perfect, unused condition. It did not come with the O-Ring Seal, but a standard SAE size 1/2" (number 12) are readily available. I used one from a Harbor Freight SAE O ring assortment box.
    HH-66 Vinyl Cement 8oz. Foam/Mats/Awnings/Seam Sealing w/ Brush Included
    Oct 11, 2017
    Is just what I expected it to be
    It was exactly what I expected, Shipping was very fast. It arrived before the day they estimated it would. I used it as a far less expensive vinyl sealant and patch cement for the vinyl sides on my pop top camper. I have used it years ago and the patches that I applied AFTER cleaning the pop-top vinyl sides where the patch and HH-66 was going to make contact using a clear cleaner that is made for cleaning PVC pipes like the one from Oatey that you can get it Home Depot, there are also other brands. Just be sure it is the clear. I also found that heat needs to be applied to get a good cure and adhesion. For the small patches I used the heating iron and the special pad that came with it that you have to use to keep from melting through the vinyl with the heat iron that came with the Permatex model 81781 Pro-Style vinyl and leather repair kit that I had previously purchased. For the larger size patches over about 3 inches in diameter, it takes a very long time to use the iron and pad effectively. I have yet to do so. So I cannot say whether or not it works but I think by very carefully using a heat gun on low setting from the correct distance away from the vinyl and also applying pressure to the heated area. I think it would cure just fine. Can't say for sure until I try it. If I can update this review after trying that technique I will. All in all, compared to the tiny tubes of vinyl cement in the repair kits like the one from Permatex, so long as you don't need to use either the coloring and or the texture pads that comes in the kits, the price for the adhesive is exponentially far less expensive than it would be if you were to use the glue/filler from kits to do large repairs or fill long seams. Also, another note of advice I can give you my experience: 1- The vinyl must be very clean for the adhesive to work properly. 2- Apply the HH-66 to the patch and patch area where you are making the repair. Allow it to get a little bit tacky before putting the patch on the repair area. Also, the patch area needs to be free of air bubbles between the patch and the vinyl service you are patching. 3-Some pressure needs to be applied to the patch area when you are using a vinyl patch to purge any bubbles and for the patch not to shift position. 3- Be very careful with the PVC cleaner if you decide to use that before applying the HH-66 vinyl glue because it does soften vinyl material, and if over applying and too much friction is used during the cleaning process by wiping it too hard or aggressively, the vinyl you are trying to patch will get too thin and will to some extent begin to dissolve or be weakened too much. I also clean the side of the patch with the PVC cleaner that I am going to glue to the repair area. 4- As all vinyl fumes are somewhat toxic and very flammable, it is imperative to use it either outdoors or in a well ventilated area.
    1 of 1 found this helpful
    FTDI USB Programming Cable Kenwood TH-F6A TH-F7 TH-F7E TH-235A TH-235E KPG-22
    Jul 12, 2017
    Good quality product, is as represented by the seller
    The "Why": I have a Windows 10 O/S computer and I intend to use CHIRP (and / or the free on-line Kenwood programming download software) to program a Kenwood THF6A. The "Other Expeirence": I have a Baofeng UV-5RA that has the exact same programming cable end where it plugs into the radio as the Kenwood THF6A. Sidenote: 1- I would never trust the programming cable that I use for the Baofeng to plug into my far more valuable Kenwood THF6A. 2- I have heard it mentioned and have had the not so good experience with the Windows 10 O/S in combination with some or most of the so-called "cheap" programming cables, whereas, they are not particularly compatible . To make a long story shorter, about the cheap cable: 1- Whether the one I have is actually a knockoff or not I don't know. 2- With Windows 10 an older driver which is apparently outdated but still available, has to be installed and enabled using task manager, which is something relatively easy for computer geeks, I suppose, but for regular people as deep as you have to go into task manager to accomplish that is time consuming and can be downright maddening, particularly after you have already done that once and, like me, made the incorrect assumption that it would not have to be done again. No, instead, you, in all likelyhood will end up getting what seems to be a mysterious error pop-up message (like I did many times) instead of just plugging the programming cable into the USB port and being able to simply open the program (in this case CHIRP), and procede with the what and the way you expected to. For sure the FTDI chipped cables are far superior to the other numorus "cheap" ones that are out there. With this FTDI USB programming cable, along with the instructions that the seller sends with it, there does not seem to be any onerous and frustrating problems like I had with the "cheap" programming cable. The instructions that the seller included in the package were adequately detailed and understandable. The FTDI programming cable cost more money up front than the "cheap" ones, be they, (the cheap ones); knock-off or not. The quality of the The FTDI programming cable easily makes up for every cent and more the difference in money. Bottom Line: Good quality product, is as represented by the seller, the seller included detailed and accurate instructions. Is definitly well worth the money.
    2 of 2 found this helpful

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