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Reviews (2)
Dec 16, 2020
Best Deep Fryer Ever!!!
If you researched this model deep fryer like I did I am sure you read bad things about it and problems people had giving it bad reviews. The deep fryer is not the problem at all guaranteed and all it was in every single bad review I read was “operator error”.
With seeing it and how nice it looked and all the features it has I did research it and found the user manual on the internet. Once I read the user manual it explained to me 100% any bad review I read that someone put up. All the people that left any bad review on it for any problem they had using it never read the user manual first before using it. So do not go by any bad reviews you read that people wrote it because it is phenomenal.
Basically all bad reviews came from people who NEVER read the user manual before using it the first time and if they did read it they NEVER would have had that problems at all.
It has many great features and first one is the oil strainer in the bottom of the screen pan which filters your oil after it cooled that goes into the plastic drain pan. It does filter everything of what you fried out of the oil that goes in the plastic drain pan underneath. I would suggest getting a stainless steel funnel that has a filter that slips in to get all the remaining oil out of the frying pan to put back in your container it came in. I used it probably 10 times and my oil still looks 100% brand new putting it back in the gallon bottle it came in with not one single floating in it from anything I cooked with it.
Do not worry about any oil coming out when using it with the filter on the top cover when you see steam coming out with it trapping all of it. I did a test on it to see how good it was and found no oil came out at all and only steam.
The manual has temperatures and cooking times in it and this is for a full batch and basically suggestions. You may not be making that much so just watch it and check what you are cooking and you will have that all down path.
It has a hanger on the oil pan for the basket to hang on just above the oil to let all the excess oil drain off back into the oil with what you just made when it is done and keeps it warm.
Cleaning is simple where I though it would be a lot of work, but is not at all just using a good dish soap and washing parts in the sink, wipe down, and put in dish strainer to finish drying.
Oil... Get a good one that is refined that has what they call a “high smoke point”. What that means is the oil can withstand a very high temperature and not burn putting a burnt taste in what you just made. Basically look for an oil with a “smoke point” that is as high or higher then the temperature the deep fryer can go up to. So when buying an oil look to see what it’s “smoke point” is rated at.
This deep fryer is beyond awesome and like above read the manual before using it, draining it, and cleaning it. I guarantee you will not have one single problem or complaint like others leaving bad reviews on it where all it was is “operator error” with them not reading the manual.
Then like me you will leave it a phenomenal review.
May 25, 2021
Great To Have On A Central Air Comditioning Unit.
I want to school for HVAC many years ago and had to have a new unit installed due to I did not have all the tools to do it or I would have done it myself. I thought one was in the unit already when doing my Spring Tune Up and realized they never put one on. Also, noticed their work was pretty horrible and had to do things they made huge mistakes on.
These are a must if you live where in an City/ State where Spring time and Fall temperatures go up and down non-stop getting cold out at night. The purpose of it is refrigerant will always migrate to colder air and compressors are designed to pump vapors only and not liquids. So when might tile comes and it is cool out the refrigerant will go outside and fill up your compressor with liquid refrigerant, which is bad if you run it the next day being hard in your compressor and shortening the life of it.
They do take 24 hours to warm up to keep liquid refrigerant inside the home and if you have a heat pump then this is an absolute must to have on. Very simply installation, but if you do not know electricity have a professional do it.
With a 3 to 4 ton unit you can get the 40 watt one and over that go with a 70 watt one. Both use very little electricity and you should also add on when it is wired in what is called a liquid line thermostat. It is wired in a series circuit so it only turns on when it is colder than 63 degrees Fahrenheit and shits off as your unit runs, unless you or the person know how to wire it so it back feeds off two of the windings from the compressor and turns off as soon as the system turns on. Well worth the money to keep your compressor from what is called being slugged with liquid refrigerant on cooler night and cooler days.
The thing you do have to remember is to turn off your circuit breaker if you live in a cold weather State when you are all down with AC fir the year so it is not running unnecessarily, unless you have a heat pump and it stays on all the time. Very well worth the money for sure and another thing to add on is called a low ambient temperature sensor. On colder nights when it is warm inside and you are not supposed to run your AC under 60 degrees which this belly band heater helps is the low ambient temperature sensor because this is what happens. With it being much cooler out then your home the compressor is barely working and all the refrigerant is being cooled down by the coil outside called the condensing coil. Compressors need to heat up because the oil in them is very thick as why you put this belly band heater in too. The low ambient temperature sensor monitors the high side pressure which will be Mitch lower when it is cooler outside and high when it hit out and totally normal. When the unit is running in cooler nights and all the cooling is mostly done in the condensing coil liquid refrigerant can come back around into the compressor and that is bad for compressors. What the low ambient temperature sensor does is one of two things depending on the blower motor you outside condensing unit has. If it is variable speed it will slow it down so pressure can build up in the high side to keep liquid refrigerant out. If you have one that is not variable speed it will monitor the high side pressure just like in a variable fan motor, but shut it down fir a brief period to let that high side pressure rise. Where it basically mentors how high it gets and turns it in or slows it down to the pressure that is set for the high end. Then pressure is set for the low end too and it just keeps turning on and off the blower motor or keeping it running at a slow speed. Does this and can this wear out a blower motor faster? Yes but the cost of replacing that compared to a new compressor costing thousands or if you have an older system you are better off buying a new one. Great things to have in your AC unit and always keep you filter in your furnace clean and your outside coil clean too. When they are dirty the unit will run longer and you are wearing down your unit faster and paying the electric company more money. Another thing is keep your thermostat set to “fan auto” with AC. Many new furnaces have blowers that run at about 30 % all the time to keep air moving to balance it out and filter more. When your Ac shits down the coil inside is loaded with moisture which we all know is humidity and we want that out. “Fan On” will push it right back into your house where it never had a chance to drain. Some HVAC people say that is not true but it has been tested extensively with changing that setting and monitoring the humidity and dew point in a home. It spikes sky high on “Fan On” and in “Fan Auto” it drops back down. Try it yourself going 3 days in each two times and monitor your humidity in your home. Then you can tell all the HVAC techs and companies that say that does not happen how high your humidity was when it was set to “Fan On” for those two 3 day trials. Plus, with less humidity you can turn up the Ac