Table of Content
ZERO BREAK: An Illustrated Collection of Surf Writing, 1777-2004 Introduction ONE THE MOST SUPREME PLEASURE: SURFING INTRODUCED Captain Cook; excerpt from A Voyage to the Pacific Mark Twain, excerpt from Roughing It Herman Melville, excerpt from Mardi Jack London, excerpt from The Cruise of the Snark Lord Byron, excerpt from "Childe Harold" Frederick Kohner, excerpt from Gidget TWO KAHUNA: SURFING CHARACTERS David Rensin, "The Legend Lives: Finding Mickey Dora," John Milius, excerpt from Apocalypse Now Garry Trudeau, Doonesbury Allan Weisbecker, "Jock's Night Trip" THREE OUT THERE: BIG WAVES, LONG JOURNEYS Dave Parmenter, "The Land Duke Forgot" James Houston, excerpt from A Native Son of the Golden West Rick Griffin, Murphy Matt Warshaw, excerpt from Maverick's FOUR SURF CITY HERE WE COME: SURF CULTURE Cintra Wilson, "Jesus Christ, Personal Friend of Surfing" Tom Wolfe, "The Pump House Gang" Charles Schultz, Peanuts Susan Orlean, "Surf Girls of Maui" Charles Rubin, "Surf Dudes of Beach 89" Peter Spacek, N.Y.D.P. FIVE FISH OUT OF WATER: THE LANDLOCKED SURFER Allston James, "Waterbed" The Trade Winds, "New York's a Lonely Town" William Finnegan, "Black Sea Blues" Bob Shacochis, "Return of the Prodigal Surfer" Derek Rielly, "Surfers of Fortune" SIX THE NINTH WAVE: SURF NOIR Eugene Burdick, excerpt from The Ninth Wave R. Crumb, Salty Dog Sam Goes Surfin' Kem Nunn, excerpt from The Dogs of Winter Patrick Morgan, excerpt from Hang Dead Hawaiian Style Joy Nicholson, excerpt from The Tribes of Palos Verdes Anonymous, "Haole Go Home" SEVEN VOICE OF THE WAVE: WHY WE SURF Phil Edwards, excerpt from You Should Have Been Here an Hour Ago Daniel Duane, excerpt from Caught Inside Surfer magazine, "Why Do You Surf?" Thomas Farber, excerpt from On Water John Kilroy, "Wave for Mickey Dora"