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Frame is sturdy, parts work well. Large print bed and dual extruding a plus. Depending on the setup you use, you may have to delve into the firmware and make changes (cyclops, specifically). Hardware could be improved upon (should have used 5mm screws for frame assembly, as well as t nuts), thus only 4 stars. I also had to manufacture the mount for my auto level sensor, as the one provided didn't fit the carriage for the cyclops/chimera setup (I didn't bother calling the company. I have another printer, it was quicker). The instructions could be fixed, also (chimera/cyclops instructions need help). Company contacted me to change the location of the shipping warehouse, so I got my printer in days versus weeks, so excellent service there. If you don't know what you are doing, don't jump into this one. There are models out there with an easier setup and assembly. Learn on those first, then upgrade. This one is definitely an upgrade. I also recommend Igus Drylin linear bearings. They are quieter than the ones provided, and I purchased what I needed for $15 usd on Ebay.Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
Buy this knowing this - Linear rods sometimes need to be put in the end of a cordless drill and pinched with sandpaper/3in1 oil - Fans work for cooling board but only last about 2 months with heavy use near the hotend, buy spare fans. - Auto level sensor is OK at best, You must reem the mounting slots with a 1/8th inch drill bit on the top side to get the sensor sitting low enough. After a while I replaced them with 6-24v 8mm sensors. on a custom 3d printed carriage and bracket. 5v transistor to the data line back to the board made it simple. - Acrylic parts are horrible. They crack SO EASILY! if the machine crashes once due to a failed sensor it breaks the hotend carriage and sensor mount. - Buy an SSR before you run the hotbed through the board. Its a 180w 15 amp 12v bed so I run a small data line fr the board to an solid state relay. It will fry the board even with the fans. - Have calipers to measure to acrylic parts and make your own with 3d cad and other printers. - Have other printers - Have your own zip ties and allen keys - Acrylic parts to replace initially is the sensor mount and hotend carriage. Make it right and you can get 310mm X-axis You are buying this kit for... The cheap all in one board is decent and runs a good version of marlin with some nice pause functions The 180w aluminum bed that heats fast and is 310x310mm The cheap hotend and pre written 1.1.6 marlin firmware The cheap 600mm linear rods Cheap delrin wheels and other various parts. Update: 4/12/18 OK It is a great printer BUT More info. Fans - Fans are fine. When you first get them peel off the sticker and drop a dab of 3in1 oil on the bearing and run power the the fan for a few minutes so the puddle of oil spins into and with the bearing with gravity on your side of course. (i use 3in1 with the 5% silicone for 500F heat resistance. Makes these cheapo fans last forever on the hotend.) Heating element is 25w and the fans are 4 cfm each. If you replace the fans and do so with a 7cfm fan on the hot end, the 25w element on the hotend will not overcome 240C. It will have trouble being stable at that temp too. However when I put the 7cfm fan in I also popped in a replacement cartridge I knew was 40w. It heated up just fine to 262C with the 7 cfm replaced fan. (That I didnt need. All I needed to do was oil the included fans by peeling the sticker and they seem to go forever.) So 25w element gets a 4cfm fan which is what you get. Just oil them first. 40w element and 4cfm are okay too it will just heat faster. just not 25w element with a 7 cfm fan. Also there is an extra included endstop switch for the Z. And the autoleveing sensor "senses" 2mm above the bed. So if you set up both the sensor and the endstop switch by re arranging pins.h in arduino to accept 2 z min endstops it works as a fail safe for the sensor. However I found the reason the sensor wasnt sensing was because the tolerance of measurement is so small (2.8mm) that if the bed is slightly unlevel, and there is some plastic on the tip of the nozzle that hardened. That plastic will bend the entire hotend carriage before it can sense. So unless you get clippers and clip the ooze before each print this can happen unless you implement the z endstop switch as a failsafe. Overall great printer. (Oh to those who said "DOA or Bad Board") I put it together plugged it in and nothing happened too. Then I used my brain to do this funny thing called think! When the smoke cleared, I was able to see the hidden red switch on the POWER SUPPLY FROM ANOTHER COUNTRY that read 220v. Flipped it to 110v and discovered many people on eBay should not possess a driver's license let alone attempt to build a machine. Go work for Ford if you wanna be an incompetent machine builder.Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
The machine is sturdy and stronger than I expected. What I did not like is the assembly,but if you go slow and do not rush things, everything comes together very nicely. But that could just be because I am not the most patient person. Investing in some cable ties help to neaten the cables. The best part is the Facebook group, where there is a community of users of this make. They are very helpful. I would definitely recommend this product. It arrived quickly, took a day to assemble and was printing my first print that evening.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
I am not done with the printer but the build has been a lot of fun so far. You can change a lot of stuff to fit your way of printing.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
I´ve just received the printer in an extremely short time from my order , I´ve checked every part of the kit and found very good quality of the machined parts , I´m going to begin the assembly next week , although I haven´t tried it , I must say that for the finished parts research I don´t doubt that the final product will be very efficient .
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
