Patek Philippe Aquanaut Watches

To understand the success of the Aquanaut and its impact on watch collecting, take a close look at the cultural environment at the time of the collection’s birth. In the late 1990s, luxury sport watches had become a fully accepted category by collectors. The Patek Philippe Nautilus, unveiled decades earlier in 1976, fit that category and was enjoying grand popularity.

Still, the ‘90s was an era of economic boom, especially in America, where the .com concept was pervasive and the internet was opening massive opportunities. In the short five years from 1995-2000, the Nasdaq stock market index rose 400 percent. People – especially young people -- involved in trading or the internet were becoming rich and enjoying disposable income they never had before.

It was this younger audience that Patek Philippe wanted to address with a new luxury steel sport watch collection. Naturally, the brand turned to its highly successful Nautilus for inspiration. It borrowed the codes of the octagon case shape but softened the corners. It added a new dial pattern reflective of the longitude and latitude lines on a globe (originally designed to reflect the patterning of the strap) and added what many believe was the winning feature: a “Tropical” rubber strap that could withstand saltwater and UV rays. It was the first time this luxury brand offered a rubber strap.

Almost like a hot-rod version of the Nautilus, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut in steel with rubber strap was an immediate success. While the younger crowd sat up and took notice, so too did existing Patek Philippe followers. They saw the Aquanaut as the sporty weekend watch that complemented their Calatrava. Sales went through the roof.

Today, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut remains pretty true to its design roots. The cushion-cornered octagon case defines it, as does the slightly softened embossed dial pattern. The most sought-after model is the 5167A self-winding mechanical version, with three hands and date indication at 3:00 on the dial. At 40mm in diameter, it is highly wearable and distinctively identifiable.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut in steel with black rubber strap may be the most in demand, but Aquanauts in rose gold also have their followers. With steel luxury sport watches being in such high demand, the pricing isn’t that far off between the two. Additionally, a few versions feature added functions. The Ref . 5968A-001, for instance, has a chronograph function, and the 5164A Aquanaut Travel Time offers second time zone indication.

As with any Patek Philippe watch, it's wise to set the time and wind the watch when it is off of the wrist. This avoids any lateral pressure on the crown and winding stem. It is also advisable when in a tropical or humid climate to avoid pulling out the crown unless you are indoors in air conditioning. A water-resistant Aquanaut is only resistant when the crown is fully closed and screwed down. It should never be opened when underwater.

In terms of winding and setting the watch and its functions, it is the best process (if the watch has stopped running) to wind the watch (typically about 10 turns of the crown) before correcting the date or time. The date should not be changed between 9 p.m. and 12:30 a.m., when the mechanical brains are performing important date operations.

Inside the Patek Philippe Aquanaut is the Caliber 324 S C. This self-winding, 27mm diameter mechanical movement is expertly finished, like all of Patek Philippe's Calibers. And running at a steady rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour is Patek Philippe's famous Gyromax balance wheel.

Why is this balance wheel so well regarded? To understand, first consider the traditional balance wheel, with adjustable weights on the periphery of the balance wheel's rim. These weights allow for the natural oscillating frequency of the balance wheel to be tuned by slightly rotating the screws in or out. But this configuration poses a problem. The screws on the periphery limit the maximum size of the balance wheel. A balance wheel that has a wider diameter will run with more stability than a smaller one

Patek Philippe's Gyromax is the best of both worlds. It features eccentric weights located on the top of the balance wheel rim, allowing for the balance wheel itself to be much wider, and therefore more stable than a traditional balance wheel. The Gyromax balance does not require a traditional regulator on the balance cock. Instead, the watchmaker regulates the balance wheel directly with the eccentric weights. For the Patek Philippe Aquanaut, the result is a very precise timekeeper.