Intro to the Cartier Panthère
Born in 1983 as a horological expression of one of Cartier’s most recognizable motifs, the Panthère by Cartier was one of the most prominent fashion symbols of the '80s and '90s. It was produced continuously for more than 20 years, making it fairly easy to find good examples on the secondary market. Cartier re-launched the line in 2017. Consequently, second-hand models are back in vogue and available at price points considerably lower than their new counterparts.
History of the Panthère
The Cartier Panthère wristwatch may have debuted in 1983, but its roots go all the way back to 1914. In that year, Louis Cartier, the genius behind much of Cartier’s modern success (especially in watches), commissioned a watercolor, Art Deco painting to use as an invitation for a jewelry show. Painter George Barbier delivered an image called “The Woman and the Panther,” depicting an elegantly dressed woman with a panther sleeping at her feet. The painting (and the panther, more generally) soon became an important symbol of the Cartier brand. Later in the same year, Cartier would produce a unique piece called “Panthère” which was a decadent, two-tone bracelet watch set with onyx and diamonds to evoke the spots of a wild cat.
These weren’t the only panthers at Cartier at that time, however. “The Panther” was also the nickname of Jeanne Toussaint, the woman whom Louis Cartier had appointed in 1913 as head of bags, accessories and objects for Cartier. She would later be named head of jewelry in 1933. Hiring and promoting a woman to such prominent positions was a remarkable move at the time. It paid off in the form of the enduring “Panthère” collection, launched in 1927. The line was designed by Peter Lemarchand with input from Toussaint and consisted solely of jewelry until the debut of the Cartier Panthère wristwatch more than 50 years later.
Panthère Design and Features
Though it bears a resemblance to the Cartier Santos in terms of its overall design language (square case, bezel with exposed screws), the Panthère is noteworthy for a number of reasons.
First, because the Panthère was born at the height of the quartz movement era, it used quartz calibers throughout the line. While many collectors prize watches with mechanical calibers, quartz is a perfect choice for the Panthère, which was intended as a more “everyday” watch. The increased accuracy and reduced maintenance of quartz over mechanical calibers make sense in this context.
More important is the Panthère’s distinctive bracelet. The design, modeled on rows of bricks, is composed of five interlocking rows of links that add visual flair while simultaneously increasing the comfort of the watch and adding to its “everyday” appeal.
The collection was originally released as a unisex design available in four sizes: mini, small, medium and large. At the time of release, it was available in yellow gold or two-tone gold-and-steel finishes, though all-steel and white gold versions were added later on. The Panthère has never been a vehicle for complications (except for some large men’s versions, the Panthère usually doesn’t even have a date window), though some diamond special editions were used to display Cartier’s jewelry expertise.
Despite its unisex origins, the 2017 re-release of Panthère positions the watch squarely as a women’s watch with only two case sizes (22mm and 27mm), so men looking for a Panthère should stick to vintage pieces. For women, the new incarnation of the Panthère features many more finishes and material combinations, as well as an array of bracelet designs that take the instantly recognizable brick motif to new heights. As time goes on, more of the re-released watches will be available on the secondary market to reward patient buyers.
Whether you choose a vintage model or a more recent pre-owned Panthère, you can maintain the value of your investment by performing regular cleaning with a soft, dry microfiber cloth. Avoid exposure to extreme environments like saunas and extreme activities like contact or racket sports. It is best to remove the watch while you sleep to protect its finish from unexpected bumps.
Fun Fact: The Panthère on Famous Wrists
It may seem strange that a watch that debuted in the 1980s (especially one that so encapsulates the glitzy style of that decade) would exude a timeless appeal. But the great accomplishment of the Panthère is that it feels simultaneously timeless and representative of the era that created it. Iconic celebrities of the '80s and '90s helped tie the Panthère to specific moments in cultural memory.
For instance, Pierce Brosnan sported the Panthère in Remington Steele to smoldering effect, associating the watch with a blend of effortless cool and elegant sex appeal. As if to show the breadth of appeal that this piece possesses, Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones was also a noted enthusiast, proving that the Panthère was just as at home on the wrist of a hard-living rock star as that of a refined Hollywood sex symbol.
But the Panthère’s celebrity appeal isn’t limited to men. It was, after all, positioned as a unisex watch. Tina Turner was another '80s icon known to wear one, and the Panthère’s enduring appeal has caused it to appear on the wrists of more recent celebrities such as Anne Hathaway and British musician Dua Lipa.
Watchmaker’s Perspective
When Carter relaunched the Panthère de Cartier collection in 2017, they introduced a multitude of new styles of the famous watch that deserve a close look. The "Panther Motif" version is covered in diamonds, on the case, dial and bracelet. The diamonds are interspersed with black enamel spots, reminiscent of a panther's coat. The amount of gem-setting expertise that went into this version of the Panthère is remarkable.
Another special version is described as "Rose Gold and Black Lacquer", which features alternating bracelet links in black lacquer. The case and dial of this version also utilize the alternating black rectangle design, resulting in a refreshing take on the Panthère style.
With the success of the relaunched versions of the Panthère de Cartier collection in 2017, Cartier kept the trend going in 2018 with a new release at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. The Panthère "Triple Wrap" extends the length of the bracelet, allowing it to be wrapped around the wearer's wrist three times. The technical expertise needed to manufacture a metal bracelet that can overlap itself, and still have the case remain flat, is impressive. The look of this watch is a nice combination between a casual style and a dressy look.