Best flooring book and installation guide I have found after searching for months in libraries, on line, in book stores and in big box stores like Home Depot. Everything in it is still relevant and up to date. The only thing I would like to see is more detail on subfloors, especially with regard to how 3/4" OSB subfloors can be built up by layering 1/2", 5/8" or 3/4" plywood on top of the OSB and what type of OSB and plywood are acceptable for subfloors and layering. What is the fastening schedule for the edges and in the field of the plywood sheet? Should it be glued and screwed if you want it to be integrated into the subfloor for additional stiffness? Should the nails or screws be slightly countersunk so that normal thermal cycling does not cause them to rise slightly and cause bumps under the flooring? When insulating a crawl space in a pier and post foundation, how is it done? Should there be a gap between the vapor barrier and the bottom of the subfloor so nails, or screws used to fasten flooring do not penetrate it? A lot of questions like this could be answered if the book were updated. But, it's still the best book I have found and the DVD by Don Bollinger on hardwood floor installations plus his DVD on their sanding and finishing are also well worth the investment if you have never installed a 3/4" hardwood floor before and want to do it yourself. Mr. Bollinger lives nad works in the state of Washington, near the coast. he prefers cleats for hardwood flooring. In the midwest where it is not as humid year araound, most installers use coated staples. What are the pros and cons? Which one to use for the best holding, squeak prevention and long flooring life. In the old days before power nailers allowed installers to relaly reduce their labor costs, hardowwd floors wer einstalled by hand nailing using steel hardened cut nails. These are still available. So are spiral nails. Both were used in the floors that installers refer to as having lasted 80-100 years. Cleats have been around for about 35 years. Staples for about 10-15 years. No one knows what their long term performace will be. the only reason they exist is so contrators can reduce their labor costs. It is not necessarily a better way. This area could be expanded on since a lot of do it yourself people don't care how long it takes since their time is their own. They want performance over th elonf term. So, the best fastening method could also be expanded on. But, it's still the best book out there but you will have to dig around a lot to answer all your questions that could be answered by Mr./ Bollinger if he were to write an an updated version. Try NOFMA.org and the Hardwood Installer web sites. Also the Flooring Doctor is another good one. They can supplement what D. Bollinger says. One thing will never change and it's as true today as it was 100 years ago. Your hardwood floor will only be as good as what's under it. Then use the best installation method you can afford or have time for. And learn about staples, cleats and hand nailing. American made cleats have better and sharper barbs than imports. American made staples are coated with resin for increased holging power. Imports often do not have the resin coating. Make sure your humidity levels under the subfloor are controlled year around. The danger comes from greater humidity levels on the bottom of the hardwood flooring than what is on top. This could also be expanded on.Read full review
Very informative!
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: Pre-owned
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