Reviews
"Heller is a guy you would want to go on an adventure with: likeable, fallible, good-humored, given to near-fatal bouts of love--for the ocean, for his girl, for the perfect wave. What begins as a mid-life crisis evolves, in this engaged and engaging story, into a deeply impassioned stand on behalf of marine-life, and of all life. Kook makes the dangerously unhip suggestion that it is still possible to find meaning--even transcendence--in the ever diminishing natural world."--Pam Houston, author ofSight Hound, "In this rich and gracefully written book, Heller's creative and artistic abilities are on full display.We follow along with him on an insightful, year-long quest as he grapples with the dual, ever capricious, challenges of love and the sea." e"National Outdoor Book Award, "Told with an honesty and self-deprecating sense of humor, Heller's tale is as much about surfing as it is about his personal growth as an individual once he starts getting his glideon. With a finely trained ability to both have insight and share it, Heller connects the dots between the simple act of surfing, emotional health, personal redemption, and our duty to work as stewards of Mother Earth. Next time an employer, a parent, or a significant other questions why you surf or what the bigger meaning of so much time getting waterlogged actually adds up to, this book is the ideal answer to give them." -- Santa Barbara Independent, "Breathtaking. . . . As Heller slips deeper and deeper into the surfing world, he teeters at the edge of obsession. . . . Over the course of this journey, Heller comes to understand the power of the waves, the value of the ocean and its suffering at the hands of man. Perhaps most important, he discovers his ability to commit, to love." -- The Dallas Morning News, eoeBreathtaking. . . . As Heller slips deeper and deeper into the surfing world, he teeters at the edge of obsession. . . . Over the course of this journey, Heller comes to understand the power of the waves, the value of the ocean and its suffering at the hands of man. Perhaps most important, he discovers his ability to commit, to love.e e" The Dallas Morning News, eoeHeller is a guy you would want to go on an adventure with: likeable, fallible, good-humored, given to near-fatal bouts of lovee"for the ocean, for his girl, for the perfect wave.What begins as a mid-life crisis evolves, in thisengaged and engaging story,intoa deeply impassionedstandon behalf ofmarine-life,and ofall life. Kook makesthe dangerously unhipsuggestion that it is still possible to find meaning--even transcendence--in theever diminishingnatural world.e e"Pam Houston, author of Sight Hound, eoeHeller takes us on a wild, unforgettable adventure with the poet's gift for capturing the quintessential in risking everything and the transformation that comes with it. This book is a funny, compelling exploration of love, surfing and the everyday, even when life proves as uncompromising as the wave.e e"Rebecca Rowe, author of Forbidden Cargo, "In this rich and gracefully written book, Heller's creative and artistic abilities are on full display. We follow along with him on an insightful, year-long quest as he grapples with the dual, ever capricious, challenges of love and the sea." National Outdoor Book Award, "The author has a great feel for people... As a result, the reader gets to know a collection of fascinating characters: surf stars, expats, and environmentalists, to say nothing of the creatures of the sea...Mr. Heller's colorful and informative paean to humility belongs on the bookshelves of kooks and surf gods alike."-- The East Hampton Star, "The author has a great feel for peoplee As a result, the reader gets to know a collection of fascinating characters: surf stars, expats, and environmentalists, to say nothing of the creatures of the seaeMr. Hellere(tm)s colorful and informative paean to humility belongs on the bookshelves of kooks and surf gods alike."-- The East Hampton Star, "Told with an honesty and self-deprecating sense of humor, Heller's tale is as much about surfing as it is about his personal growth as an individual once he starts getting his glide on. With a finely trained ability to both have insight and share it, Heller connects the dots between the simple act of surfing, emotional health, personal redemption, and our duty to work as stewards of Mother Earth. Next time an employer, a parent, or a significant other questions why you surf or what the bigger meaning of so much time getting waterlogged actually adds up to, this book is the ideal answer to give them." - Santa Barbara Independent, "Told with an honesty and self-deprecating sense of humor, Heller's tale is as much about surfing as it is about his personal growth as an individual once he starts getting his glide on. With a finely trained ability to both have insight and share it, Heller connects the dots between the simple act of surfing, emotional health, personal redemption, and our duty to work as stewards of Mother Earth. Next time an employer, a parent, or a significant other questions why you surf or what the bigger meaning of so much time getting waterlogged actually adds up to, this book is the ideal answer to give them." -- Santa Barbara Independent, "Heller takes us on a wild, unforgettable adventure with the poet's gift for capturing the quintessential in risking everything and the transformation that comes with it. This book is a funny, compelling exploration of love, surfing and the everyday, even when life proves as uncompromising as the wave." -Rebecca Rowe, author of Forbidden Cargo, "The book may be about surfing, but the real subject here is obsession. How far is one man willing to push his body, mind, and relationship to achieve a singular goal? Though Peter Heller may end up catching a wave that is perfect, the life lessons along the way are even more powerful."--Mark Obmascik, author ofHalfway to HeavenandThe Big Year, "Heller takes us on a wild, unforgettable adventure with the poet's gift for capturing the quintessential in risking everything and the transformation that comes with it. This book is a funny, compelling exploration of love, surfing and the everyday, even when life proves as uncompromising as the wave."Rebecca Rowe, author ofForbidden Cargo, "In this rich and gracefully written book, Heller's creative and artistic abilities are on full display. We follow along with him on an insightful, year-long quest as he grapples with the dual, ever capricious, challenges of love and the sea." -National Outdoor Book Award, "Heller is a guy you would want to go on an adventure with: likeable, fallible, good-humored, given to near-fatal bouts of love--for the ocean, for his girl, for the perfect wave. What begins as a mid-life crisis evolves, in this engaged and engaging story, into a deeply impassioned stand on behalf of marine-life, and of all life. Kook makes the dangerously unhip suggestion that it is still possible to find meaning--even transcendence--in the ever diminishing natural world." --Pam Houston, author of Sight Hound, eoeTold with an honesty and self-deprecating sense of humor, Hellere(tm)s tale is as much about surfing as it is about his personal growth as an individual once he starts getting his glideon. With a finely trained ability to both have insight and share it, Heller connects the dots between the simple act of surfing, emotional health, personal redemption, and our duty to work as stewards of Mother Earth. Next time an employer, a parent, or a significant other questions why you surf or what the bigger meaning of so much time getting waterlogged actually adds up to, this book is the ideal answer to give them.e e" Santa Barbara Independent, "Breathtaking. . . . As Heller slips deeper and deeper into the surfing world, he teeters at the edge of obsession. . . . Over the course of this journey, Heller comes to understand the power of the waves, the value of the ocean and its suffering at the hands of man. Perhaps most important, he discovers his ability to commit, to love." - The Dallas Morning News, “Breathtaking. . . . As Heller slips deeper and deeper into the surfing world, he teeters at the edge of obsession. . . . Over the course of this journey, Heller comes to understand the power of the waves, the value of the ocean and its suffering at the hands of man. Perhaps most important, he discovers his ability to commit, to love.� The Dallas Morning News, "The author has a great feel for people… As a result, the reader gets to know a collection of fascinating characters: surf stars, expats, and environmentalists, to say nothing of the creatures of the sea…Mr. Heller's colorful and informative paean to humility belongs on the bookshelves of kooks and surf gods alike." -- The East Hampton Star, “Told with an honesty and self-deprecating sense of humor, Heller’s tale is as much about surfing as it is about his personal growth as an individual once he starts getting his glide on. With a finely trained ability to both have insight and share it, Heller connects the dots between the simple act of surfing, emotional health, personal redemption, and our duty to work as stewards of Mother Earth. Next time an employer, a parent, or a significant other questions why you surf or what the bigger meaning of so much time getting waterlogged actually adds up to, this book is the ideal answer to give them.� Santa Barbara Independent, “The book may be about surfing, but the real subject here is obsession. How far is one man willing to push his body, mind, and relationship to achieve a singular goal? Though Peter Heller may end up catching a wave that is perfect, the life lessons along the way are even more powerful.� Mark Obmascik, author of Halfway to Heaven and The Big Year, eoeThe book may be about surfing, but the real subject here is obsession. How far is one man willing to push his body, mind, andrelationship to achieve a singular goal? Though Peter Heller may end up catching a wave that is perfect, the life lessons along the way are even more powerful.e e" Mark Obmascik, author of Halfway to Heaven and The Big Year, "The author has a great feel for people... As a result, the reader gets to know a collection of fascinating characters: surf stars, expats, and environmentalists, to say nothing of the creatures of the sea...Mr. Heller's colorful and informative paean to humility belongs on the bookshelves of kooks and surf gods alike." -- The East Hampton Star, "The book may be about surfing, but the real subject here is obsession. How far is one man willing to push his body, mind, and relationship to achieve a singular goal? Though Peter Heller may end up catching a wave that is perfect, the life lessons along the way are even more powerful." -- Mark Obmascik, author of Halfway to Heaven and The Big Year, "In this rich and gracefully written book, Heller's creative and artistic abilities are on full display.We follow along with him on an insightful, year-long quest as he grapples with the dual, ever capricious, challenges of love and the sea." --National Outdoor Book Award, “Heller takes us on a wild, unforgettable adventure with the poet's gift for capturing the quintessential in risking everything and the transformation that comes with it. This book is a funny, compelling exploration of love, surfing and the everyday, even when life proves as uncompromising as the wave.� Rebecca Rowe, author of Forbidden Cargo, "The book may be about surfing, but the real subject here is obsession. How far is one man willing to push his body, mind, and relationship to achieve a singular goal? Though Peter Heller may end up catching a wave that is perfect, the life lessons along the way are even more powerful." - Mark Obmascik, author of Halfway to Heaven and The Big Year, "Heller is a guy you would want to go on an adventure with: likeable, fallible, good-humored, given to near-fatal bouts of love--for the ocean, for his girl, for the perfect wave.What begins as a mid-life crisis evolves, in thisengaged and engaging story,intoa deeply impassionedstandon behalf ofmarine-life,and ofall life. Kook makesthe dangerously unhipsuggestion that it is still possible to find meaning--even transcendence--in theever diminishingnatural world." --Pam Houston, author of Sight Hound, "Heller takes us on a wild, unforgettable adventure with the poet's gift for capturing the quintessential in risking everything and the transformation that comes with it. This book is a funny, compelling exploration of love, surfing and the everyday, even when life proves as uncompromising as the wave." --Rebecca Rowe, author of Forbidden Cargo, "Breathtaking. . . . As Heller slips deeper and deeper into the surfing world, he teeters at the edge of obsession. . . . Over the course of this journey, Heller comes to understand the power of the waves, the value of the ocean and its suffering at the hands of man. Perhaps most important, he discovers his ability to commit, to love."The Dallas Morning News, "In this rich and gracefully written book, Heller's creative and artistic abilities are on full display. We follow along with him on an insightful, year-long quest as he grapples with the dual, ever capricious, challenges of love and the sea."National Outdoor Book Award, "In this rich and gracefully written book, Heller's creative and artistic abilities are on full display. We follow along with him on an insightful, year-long quest as he grapples with the dual, ever capricious, challenges of love and the sea." --National Outdoor Book Award, "The book may be about surfing, but the real subject here is obsession. How far is one man willing to push his body, mind, andrelationship to achieve a singular goal? Though Peter Heller may end up catching a wave that is perfect, the life lessons along the way are even more powerful." -- Mark Obmascik, author of Halfway to Heaven and The Big Year, "The author has a great feel for people& As a result, the reader gets to know a collection of fascinating characters: surf stars, expats, and environmentalists, to say nothing of the creatures of the sea&Mr. Heller's colorful and informative paean to humility belongs on the bookshelves of kooks and surf gods alike." -- The East Hampton Star, "Heller is a guy you would want to go on an adventure with: likeable, fallible, good-humored, given to near-fatal bouts of love-for the ocean, for his girl, for the perfect wave. What begins as a mid-life crisis evolves, in this engaged and engaging story, into a deeply impassioned stand on behalf of marine-life, and of all life. Kook makes the dangerously unhip suggestion that it is still possible to find meaning--even transcendence--in the ever diminishing natural world." -Pam Houston, author of Sight Hound
