I found it to be very easy to install, as I was running it between my Kenwood DNN992 and my two Rockford Fosgate amps (400x4 and 500x1). The only two drawbacks I had were: 1) There are only 4 RCA-level inputs and 8 RCA-level outputs on the DSR1. Which meant that I had two options for system control - either run my RCAs directly from the sub RCA output on the radio to the subwoofer amp, or not use the sub RCA output on the radio, and instead run my RCAs from the DSR1's sub output to the subwoofer amp. I opted for the former (but may decide later on to go with the latter. 2) Setup, while straightforward, was "laggy". By that, I mean that after downloading the app to my Android tablet and connecting the DSR1 to it via bluetooth, response time between both devices was noticeably delayed. I would adjust some of the EQ sliders and it would take anywhere from 5-10 seconds before you would hear the end result or the DSR1 would acknowledge the change. Overall, though, I am enjoying it immensely, and look forward to further exploring it's features (and there's a LOT).Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: Pre-owned
It's a necessary evil for many of todays cars. That's why they're so expensive. Add to that, these units are VERY buggy and there's not a lot of help on the interweb thingy. I'm moderately tech savvy and have installed many car stereos and amps over my lifetime. Never had so much trouble and I'm still dealing with issues trying to learn the idiosincricies (SP?). If I was employed, I'd have no time for this and woulld have suffered with the poor audio in my SUV and been very unhappy. My situation is made worse, because I'm out of work, I needed to save a few bucks and got s very fair deal on a used DSR1. Buying used, the manufacturer is less interested in helping so I'm navigaating this mess on my own and with a little help from online forums. If you can afford new, that's a small advantage where you can reach out to the manufacturer(s). Which is where another issue lies, this little 2 oz. box contains hardware from TWO different manufacturers so expect some finger pointing as you work through the headaches. Not much different from the days when your Lenovo PC would blame Windows who would claim it's your internet provider who would instead say your modem is faulty. The best option, if you can afford it, is to buy new FROM A CERTIFIED INSTALLER where the headaches become 80% theirs. You still have to give up your car for a day or two if/when you need to return to have an issue resolved, but those guys/gals know their stuff and have relationships with the manufacturers and suppliers. If you choose to go it alone with this thing, GOOD LUCK!!!Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: Pre-owned
This is an AWESOME little DSP! I’ve been running one in my 2000 Ford Ranger in standalone mode for almost a year now and the sound quality is PHENOMENAL. I’ve also installed them in a couple other vehicles with the flash on them using the iDataLink Maestro AR part as well. The ONLY bug I have run across is with the Bluetooth connection to my phone. When first opening the app, it won’t sync with the DSR1 and will crash, exiting the app. This is with an iPhone so I’m not sure about the Android version as I’ve never tried it even though I do have an Android tablet. I don’t carry that with me and if I find something that needs to be adjusted or if I want to play with a setting, it’s easier to just pull my phone out of my pocket and connect to it. I’m actually getting ready to purchase a SECOND one of these to go active on my rear speakers as they are passive right now and the phase shift in the crossover is screwing with the stereo image. I also want to add the midrange speaker to the rear and go 3-way like the front is. I DO wish, and I’ve called RF about this, that they were linkable via the Expansion Port. That would make these things even MORE versatile because you could run front and rear into just one of them and a digital signal would flow between them plus it would allow control through just one unit rather than having to connect to them separately. If it had the ability to link them, the possibilities would be endless, especially if there was a pigtail on each link cable to connect more than just 2 of them. Let’s face it, some people are building party busses out of retired school busses and need GOBS of channels to run a 2- or 3-way setup every 10 feet or so. These also have a digital input to come from a DVD player and run a 5.1 system, which is configurable in the setup. But if you have multi-way component speakers and want to run discrete amp channels to each of 5 main speakers with a single digital input, forget it because they aren’t linkable. You CAN run a 5.1 system with passive crossover networks but that almost defeats the entire purpose of having a DSP in the first place which is to have a FULLY active crossover system with independent EQ’s, time alignment, HP LP AND BP crossovers (up to -48 in HP or LP or up to -24 on BP, in -6 steps), phase control, and level control on EACH channel. Yeah, it acts as a Dolby Digital decoder which is, yes, a good reason to have one of these, but operating it in 5.1 mode will remove all ability to run active independent features otherwise. I suppose you COULD have THREE of them in all with one set to decode the Dolby Digital, a second to take the stereo front and separate it into a 3-way plus subwoofer, and then a third to separate the rear stereo plus center channel. I MUST mention that you CANNOT separate the subwoofer channel into stereo! But you CAN set the subwoofer output channel to whatever crossover setting you want, as long as you understand the output will be monaural. So, you COULD use the subwoofer output as a center channel output. You just have to hook it all up correctly so the inputs correspond to the outputs of the main DSP that’s decoding the Dolby Digital. You won’t be able to use the nifty time alignment calculator that you simply plug in the raw measurements and it calculates the delay for you by subtracting the nearer from the farthest itself. If you do that, it won’t calculate in the true farthest speaker, only the farthest to which it’s connected. But all you need to know is simple subtraction and that each inch is 0.074ms delay. But, again, if they were linkable, you could have one master and at least 1 or 2 “slave” DSP’s linked together much like hard drives in a computer and setup would be MUCH simpler. But, those are some pretty advanced setups and this really was designed to be a simple way to do things. You can either retain your factory head unit and replace or add your own amplifiers while still adding better sound tuning than if you just ran straight to the speaker-level inputs of your amplifier from the factory head unit or you can even use it to add amplifiers to a lesser aftermarket head unit in the same way you would do it with a factory head unit. It has configurations for a 5.1 surround, front 2-way with rear full range plus sub, front and rear full range plus subwoofer, front 3-way plus subwoofer (no rear), and I think there were a couple other options as well plus the 2 pairs of inputs are configurable as front/rear, front/sub, or front only when using only one pair. When I buy my second, I’ll have my original as front 3-way plus sub in a front/sub input config and then have my second as front only input and the use the “front” 3-way outputs to drive my rear 3-way setup. And later if I decide to add a second sub, I have the outputs right there for it unless I just daisy chain it off the other sub amp. All in all, this is a GREAT and INEXPENSIVE DSP that is still a QUALITY piece! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!Read full review
Verified purchase: No
This thing is amazing, the best set up I ever had and the ability to tune from my IPhone, I love it. Started recommending it already
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
great product
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
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