Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Watches
Patek Philippe’s second oldest watch model (after the Calatrava) is the elegant and sophisticated Golden Ellipse. Inspired by the ancient Greek mathematical principle of the “golden ratio” – a divine proportion with a ratio of 1/1.6181 – that has been used for some of the finest art and architecture in history, the new Patek Golden Ellipse was a bold rendition for a very staid brand in the late 1960s. It remains a staple in the Patek Philippe line today.
The simplicity of the dial makes the Golden Ellipse an ideal watch to execute creative bracelets on. Over the years, Patek Philippe has introduced basket-weave-pattern bracelets, Italian mesh-style bracelets and even form-fitted links that offer a bangle look.
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse: Historical and Cultural Significance
Born in 1968, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse watch was created (as its name implies) in an elliptical shape—that vague space between rectangle and cushion-cornered or oval shape. It was a very innovative case design for the times. Because it was created using the “golden ratio” mathematical ration, it was destined to be in harmony with good design sense and style. The Golden Ellipse joins paintings by Leonardo DaVinci and the Great Pyramid of Giza in following this golden ratio.
The very first version, in 18-karat yellow gold bracelet format with a rich blue dial, was devoid of numerals; it used stick markers and indicated just the hours and the minutes with simple hands. While it was powered by a manually wound movement, it was so clean and sophisticated, with such an unusual case shape, that it fast became a favorite. Within the first decade of its existence, the Golden Ellipse enjoyed so many different iterations that by the time the first automatic versions made their appearance in 1977, there were nearly 70 different styles.
In fact, in the 50-plus years of its existence, the Patek Ellipse experienced dozens of iterations for both men and women, including some attempts in the late '70s and ‘80s where the case shape morphed to be a little chunkier and rounder. In some instances, it was even more of a horizontal ellipse than vertical. However, since the '90s it has returned to its original vertical elliptical case shape.
Today, as when it was first launched, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse is renowned for its Golden Ratio elliptical case and understated elegance. At any given time, there are at least of couple of Golden Ellipse watches in the Patek Philippe line up, always in either 18-karat gold or platinum. Dial colors are usually traditional, such as rich black, blue or chocolate brown. Most recently the watches have housed the brand’s ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber 240.
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Value and Collectability
On the 50th anniversary of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse watch in 2018, Patek Philippe unveiled a superb (near $91,000) platinum cased version with a black enamel dial that was meticulously hand-engraved with a scroll-like pattern, designed to reflect the brand’s elaborate cross logo. It also released a simple rose gold version with a black dial that retailed for just over $30,000. At that point in time, the Patek Ellipse had such a cult following that the limited-edition platinum version sold out immediately. One would be hard-pressed, but very lucky, to find it at an auction.
Because the beloved Golden Ellipse watch has been around for more than 50 years, you can find a host of versions for sale at auction and on the vintage and pre-owned market. In fact, Phillips Auction House sold a 1977 18-karat white gold basket-weave-bracelet automatic caliber (one of the first-ever automatic Golden Ellipse watches) watch a few years ago—one with a date indication at 3:00—at auction for more than $16,000.
However, an astute watch buyer on the pre-owned market may be able to find a gold Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse watch for anywhere from $9,000 to about $18,000, depending on the year, the model and condition. Rest assured that, at those prices, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse will always hold its value.
Watchmaker's Perspective
The movement in Patek Philippe's Golden Ellipse is the brand's Caliber 240, a self-winding mechanical movement famous for its thin measurements. Caliber 240 is also famous for its construction, as it uses a 22 Karat gold off-center micro rotor. The rotor of an automatic mechanical movement is usually arranged in a way to cover the entirety of the diameter of the movement, and for good reason. This larger size allows for more mass to be placed near the outside of the rotor, increasing winding efficiency.
A micro rotor is different in the sense that it doesn't increase the thickness of the movement, but occupies valuable real estate. To accommodate the micro rotor, the gear train of the movement needs to be moved to the side, and the module of the wheels reduced (the module is the measure of the width of each tooth on a gear). The other issue with a micro rotor is the decrease in mass with its smaller diameter. Thankfully, Patek Philippe has addressed this in a somewhat luxurious way: by manufacturing the micro rotor from solid gold (gold is one of the heaviest metals available). The extraordinary difficulty in engineering the Caliber 240 shows through in the watch it powers, the elegant Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse.