Reviews
Pleasure without snobbery: Paul Freedman's book is itself exactly what the very best American food has always been., Spanning over 100 years, Paul Freedman's engrossing and well-researched exploration of the restaurant as an American institution presents us with a gallery of unforgettable characters, iconic dishes, and unique places. Immigrants, entrepreneurs, chefs, and impresarios all loom large in a narrative that accurately tracks the historical changes in how we eat in public., Boss is a poet to watch, likely to prove one of the leading voices of the next decade. Readers may be drawn into this collection for the poems that touch on disaster and divorce, but they'll stay for the memorable verses on nature and memory., Fascinating. . . . In his sweep through centuries of food culture, Freedman illuminates much more than what happened in the front or back of the house of these 10 distinct places (although he does plenty of that). He effectively makes the case that the story of America's restaurants is one of changing immigration patterns, race relations, gender and family roles, work obligations, and leisure habits. . . . [Freedman's] insights are shrewd and demonstrate the power of historical study in understanding the world., The most important and entertaining book on the subject of food that I've read in years! Paul Freedman paints a portrait of a culture whose cuisine is only beginning to emerge. Witty, sensitive, surprisingly sensuous--more, please!, Bookended with poems about what persists and what crumbles . . . Boss's poems have a distinct--and satisfying--rhythm., Impeccable . . . . Inevitably, a book like this will induce a feast of delicious nostalgia in most readers, a longing for all those good -- and even some not so good -- menus and dishes past. But the culinary and cultural journey Mr. Freedman has taken us on demonstrates the abiding qualities in our society -- its openness to new sources and sourcing, its diversity, its restlessness with the same old thing, its capacity for reinvention and assimilation -- all of which bode well for the future of America's restaurants and its cuisine., Reading Paul Freedman about America, stalking myself through the taste of meals at eight of his ten restaurants, each sampled for different reasons at different moments in my life, I began to draw the outlines of a world I shared with other people, people more or less like me, and to wonder what 'like me' meant when it came to expectations of inclusion, of common flash points of reference, of understanding and participating in the coded language of what we eat and how it is prepared and who is sitting at all those tables around us. I think that's what Freedman intended us to do. . . . Ten Restaurants is a book as much about the contradictions and contrasts in this country as it is about its places to eat. It is designed to keep you up, thinking, and, as I did this summer, returning to its rich, and often troubling, pages., Fascinating....Mr. Freedman's book suggests that it's not ultimately restaurants that change America--it's the people in the kitchen., Eminently readable. . . .In a narrative that is intellectually delicious, Freedman presents a new way of thinking about 'you are what you eat.' This will appeal widely, engaging readers with both a casual or scholarly interest in food history and its influence on American culture in the late 19th and 20th centuries., A robust historical trek through America's restaurant cuisine over three centuries. . . . Delightfully illustrated with menus, photos, and other visual accompaniments, the narrative delves into each of the 10 restaurants' unique stories, beginning with America's first restaurant, Delmonico's . . . . Culinary historians, those besotted with food culture, and curious general readers will all find something of value in this well-researched, entertaining social and cultural history., It's deeply satisfying to be swept into the music that scores Todd Boss's third book, Tough Luck, to delight in the song of everyday speech refreshed and refined through sly rhyme. It is deeply transporting to be ferried across the river of his metaphors, to arrive at places logical yet magical. And it's deeply delightful to walk in the world of Boss's objects--a wall-mounted coffee grinder, an old farm sled, and unused Scrabble tiles 'sitting there in their tray like dumbstruck parishioners.' Tough Luck is funny and philosophical and wry and large-hearted, and it's our great good luck to have it., Paul Freedman, one of the world's most learned food writers, has focused his extraordinary scholarship on a deconstruction of American dining from the corner deli to Chez Panisse. If you enjoy a brown paper bag of fried clams as much as a fourteen-course tasting menu, and ever wondered how it all came to be a part of daily American life, this is the book for you. Ten Restaurants That Changed America is the most enlightening kind of history, as Freedman takes a fresh look at what we take for granted and reveals the extraordinary matrix of cultural and culinary currents that have made it all possible., [W]idely regarded as one of the best poets of his generation. . . . [Boss] us[es] brilliant wordplay and portray[s] the people and landscape of his childhood in Wisconsin with clarity and hard-edged grace.
