COMPLETE WATERCRAFT REPAIR KIT!

 AeroMarine 2# Density Polyurethane Foam

2 pound per cubic foot density polyurethane liquid foam. One quart each of part A and Part B. The total yield; 2 cubic feet, which will float almost 120 pounds of dead weight. This 2 part pour foam expands from 25 to 30 time its original volume. The foam pictured in the cup is the result of a pour of a few ounces.  It is a closed cell foam that meets US Coast Guard requirements.  AeroMarine 2# Density Foam is excellent for flotation and insulation. In addition, this liquid foam can be poured into the void in concrete blocks to add insulation to a building.  Some people use AeroMarine 2# Density foam to stiffen floors or bathttubs.  Also, it is great for insulating spas and ice boxes. *This is a pourable foam which cannot be sprayed.

To use, mix a small amount of each component together and then pour into whatever cavity you need to fill. Within a few minutes it will rise and cure. It is resistant to gasoline and oil, and you could fiberglass directly over it if you like, although it's not at all necessary.

After about ten minutes from the time you mix it, the foam can be sanded, shaped, or cut easily with a hand saw. 

West Marine sells a similar foam product (same size) for $84.99!

AeroMarine 300/21 Epoxy Resin 

This AeroMarine Epoxy Resin kit consists of 1 quart of #300 Resin and 1 pint of #21 Non Blushing Cycloaliphatic Hardener. This is a clear epoxy laminating or coating resin. AeroMarine's 300/21 epoxy kit is a thin, low viscosity resin that wets cloth out very well. The unique feature of this epoxy is that it will not blush even under high humidity situations. Blush, or "amine blush" as it is known, is a greasy film that rises to the surface of almost all epoxies except for the cycloaliphtic systems. 

The mix ratio is 2:1 by volume, and the work life is approximately 30 minutes. Full cure is about 24 hours. Laminates made with this system are extremely strong. Contact us to request a cured sample of this epoxy (US only) at no charge. 

AeroMarine Fiberglass Cloth

This is a very standard fiberglass boat cloth, useful for most boatbuilding applications.  It's so versatile that it's the only fiberglass cloth we sell. made by Hexcel, #7533 E-Glass

AEROMARINE EPOXY FAQS

Q: How much epoxy do I need?
A: If laminating with cloth, it is a general rule to try to use an equal weight of mixed epoxy to the weight of the cloth. This gives us a 50/50 resin/cloth ratio, which is a desired ratio. Take the weight per yard of the cloth, then factor in the width of the cloth, and use the same weight of mixed epoxy.
If brushed or rolled onto a smooth surface, one mixed gallon of epoxy covers 1600 square feet at one mil (.001") thickness. One mil is not a practical thickness, but it gives a basis for calculating for your particular application. For instance, a ten mil layer of epoxy, which is a nice thin coating, would yield 160 square feet per gallon. A coating of 1/32" would yield 50 square feet per mixed gallon.
None of these calculations takes waste into account.

Q: How much heat can this epoxy take?
A: The 300/21 can take about 250F, which means that you can put hot cups of coffee or tea on it- but never put a hot pan or skillet from the stove directly onto the epoxy.

Q: Can I use a thinner to make the epoxy more 'flowable'?
A:The 300/21 system is very thin, so you should not have to thin it. If you really, really, want to, the answer is yes. The best thinners are lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, Toluene, or xylene. The only thinner to avoid is regualr paint thinner, also known as mineral spirits. These thinners are flammable, and the epoxy generates heat while it's curing- So it is best to add the thinner then spread immediately. This allows the thinner to evaporate. Use as little thinner as possible. Remember that any thinner needs to evaporate, so avoid using thinners in castings or laminates.

Q: How I remove "amine blush"?
A: AeroMarine 300/21 does not blush. Amine blush should be removed with a scotch-brite pad and a lot of water.

Q: What do I use for clean-up?
A: For hands-Soap and water works OK- so do most household cleaners such as Formula 409. All of the new Citrus and Orange based products do a good job, too. For routine cleaning, keep a spray can of carburetor cleaner around. For cleaning tools and spills, use solvents such as lacquer thinner, acetone, MEK, Toluene, or xylene.

Q: How can I speed up the cure?
A: Heat works best- Gradually raise the temperature and the epoxy will cure much more rapidly. Don't exceed 200°F.

Q: Does polyester gel coat adhere to your epoxy?
A: Yes, our customers have had many successful applications of gel coat over our 300/21 epoxy system. Roughing up the epoxy to give the polyester more 'bite' is a good idea.

Q: Will it bond to a painted surface?
A: Yes, but it is best to bond to the parent material. Make sure that the paint is well bonded to the substrate.

Q: Are there any surfaces AeroMarine epoxy won't bond to?
A: Yes, this epoxy does not bond to polypropolene, polyethylene or Teflon.

Q: Is it UV resistant?
A: The 300/21 cycloaliphatic system has better UV resistance than any other epoxy, but it's not perfect. It should be painted or varnished if used as a coating or laminating resin exposed to direct sunlight for a long time.

Q: How big of a batch can I mix?
A: About a quart or so is the most, at least until you gain experience working with epoxies. Later, you might mix a half gallon or so.

Q: How do I change the color?
A: We stock colorants made specifically for epoxy in black, white, grey, blue, red, and yellow. From blue red and yellow, which are the primary colors, you can create any almost other color you want. We will precolor the resin black, grey, or white before shipping. Just be sure to let us know.

Q: How can I thicken the epoxy?
A: You can thicken this epoxy with the epoxy thickeners/fillers listed on the epoxy resin page. When mixed approximately 1:1 with the total mixed epoxy system, you will get a result about the same thickness as vaseline. You could use more or less epoxy thickener to get the results that you want. You can use it to make a fairing or filleting compound that will build thickness on a vertical surface.  Do not use additional hardener to try to thicken this epoxy!

Q: Can I apply this epoxy directly to Styrofoam or EPS (expanded polystyrene)?
A: Yes, our epoxies have no effect on Styrofoam. They bond to it very well.

Q: How do I determine the relative amounts of resin to cloth?
A: Under ideal conditions you will use just a bit more resin than cloth by weight. The higher the ratio of cloth to resin the better. Aircraft manufacturers try to get a 1:1 ratio of cloth to resin, but they use expensive autoclaves and platens. Most of us working under more average conditions are lucky to get below a 2:1 ratio of resin to cloth.

Q: How many layers of cloth do I need?
A: It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. The hull of an ocean going vessel may contain a few dozen layers of cloth, while a wood kayak might have only one layer of cloth. It is generally better to use multiple layers of light weight cloth than fewer layers of heavy cloth.

Q: How do I go about fiberglassing the hull of my boat?
A: Start by cutting the cloth in to slightly larger sections than you will be needing. Mix a small batch of epoxy and brush it into a few areas that will tack the cloth to the wood. Then stretch the cloth to fit the area you are working on and apply more mixed epoxy over the cloth. Squeegee or roll the excess resin out of the cloth. When the cloth changes color from white to clear you know that the cloth has been saturated with enough epoxy. Squeegee off most of the excess because excess epoxy will just result in unnecessary weight. If you need to apply more layers of cloth, it can be done immediately. The sooner the additional layers are applied, the more of a chemical bond you will attain. With a non blushing epoxy you can add further layers, even weeks after the previous layer, however it is preferred to sand lightly to help key the old layer to the old layer.

AEROMARINE POUR FOAM FAQS

Q. I'm making a pontoon boat from empty 55 gallon drums. How much floatation foam do I need?

A. Each 55 gallon drum requires about 8 cubic feet of urethane foam. Since each cubic foot weighs two pounds, you will need 16 pounds of foam per empty drum. Therefore, it will require about one gallon kit (makes two gallons) per drum.

Q. Can I brush or spray the liquid foam onto a vertical wall to provide a uniform thickness of insulation foam?

A. No, the liquid foam will just run to the floor, then rise. You will have a big blob of foam on the floor.

Q. Is this flotation foam compatible with styrofoam?

A. Yes - it will not "eat" or dissolve styrofoam. If you have a large cavity to fill, it can be worthwhile to put some chunks of styrofoam in the cavity to save foam.

Q. How do I know how much foam I need to float my boat?

A. Great question! Get your calculator ready, you will need it. A cubic foot of polyurethane will float about 60 pounds of "dead weight". The wood parts of your boat will probably float, so you don't need flotation foam to offset that weight. The fiberglass parts of your boat will barely sink, so you really don't need much foam to offset the fiberglass- maybe one cubic foot of foam per two hundred pounds (or more) of fiberglass hull. The metal parts of your boat are what you really need to account for. A small (4-6hp) outboard may weigh 45-55 pounds. A 50hp outboard will weigh about 200 pounds.

So a 16 foot fiberglass skiff with a 50 horse outboard will need about six cubic feet of urethane foam to keep it afloat. A 12 foot plastic kayak will only need one cubic foot. A 30 foot fiberglass sailing sloop with a diesel engine and lead keel would need about 150 cubic feet of foam. Actually, very few 30 foot keelboats have positive foam flotation, but it's not out of the question- especially when you consider all of the air pockets that would exist, as well as all of the wood interior components that provide some positive flotation.

Q. Do I need to paint or fiberglass over the floatation foam?

A. You probably should. Polyurethane will absorb a small amount of water, because some of the the cells are open (95%+ are closed, though). Painting or glassing will seal the foam and prevent any water absorption. However, it really shouldn't be necessary unless the foam is constantly immersed in water, such as in a boat with bilges that are always wet. The foam is not UV resistant, so it should be painted if exposed to sunlight.

Q. Is the polyurethane foam resistant to fuel, oil, and solvents?
A. Mostly yes- It is resistant to splashes of gasoline and diesel fuel, although it will absorb a small amount because no pourable foam can be guaranteed to be 100% closed cell. A strong solvent such as acetone or toluene would eventually break the foam down, but it would take a long time.