LIQUID URETHANE POUR FOAM 2# Density, 2 gallon kit!

AEROMARINE PRODUCTS 2 PART Polyurethane Liquid Pour Foam

2# DENSITY 

2 GALLON KIT

Great for flotation and insulation!

AeroMarine Products' liquid pourable polyurethane foam, # density; 1 gallon each of Part A and Part B. Total yield is 8 cubic feet, which will float almost 480 lbs of dead weight.  Our liquid foam expands from 25 to 30 times its original volume.

This is our excellent standard pour foam.  AeroMarine's polyurethane 2# foam is ideal for adding flotation to a canoe, kayak, jon boat, runabout, or pontoon boat. You can also use it as insulation in a motorhome, in your house, or wherever.  Our pour foam can be poured into the void in concrete blocks to add insulation to a building. Also, you can use it to stiffen floors/bathtubs or for insulating spas and ice boxes.

To use, mix a small amount of each component together and then pour into any cavity that is needed to fill. Within a few minutes it will rise and cure. It is resistant to gasoline and oil, and you could fiberglass directly over it although it is not necessary. After about ten minutes from the time you mix it, the foam can be sanded, shaped, or cut easily with a hand saw.

Do NOT spray this foam.  It is NOT a sprayable foam.

Please ask any questions before buying. 

Combined shipping available for this item.  Please request it.

Returns: 30 day return policy, buyer pays shipping.

AEROMARINE PRODUCTS POUR FOAM FAQS

Q. How do I clean up?
A. Polyurethane foams are very messy and stick to just about everything.  Here, we use aerosol cans of carbuerator cleaner to clean our messes.  Lacquer thinner, xylene, acetone, toluene or MEK also work.  For our hands, we use "Fast Orange" with Pumice.  Pour foam does not come out of clothing or shoes.

Q.  Can I paint the liquid foam onto a vertical wall to provide a uniform thickness of insulation foam?
A.  No, the liquid foam will just run to the floor, then rise.  You will have a big blob of foam on the floor.

Q.  Do I need to paint or fiberglass over the foam?
A.  You can, but it's generally not necessary.  Urethane foam will absorb a small amount of water, because some of the the cells are open (95%+ are closed, though).  Painting or glassing will seal the foam and prevent any water absorption, but it really shouldn't be necessary unless the foam is constantly immersed in water, such as in a boat with bilges that are always wet.  The foam is not UV resistant, so it should be painted if exposed to sunlight.

Q.  Is the urethane foam resistant to fuel, oil, and solvents?
A.  Mostly yes- It is resistant to splashes and miscellaneous contact with gasoline and diesel fuel.  A strong solvent such as acetone or toluene would eventually break the foam down over a long time.

Q.  Can I spray the foam?
A.  No, there are sprayable foams available. However, we don't sell them.

Q.  How do I know how much foam I need to float my boat?
A.  Great question!  Get your calculator ready, you will need it.  A cubic foot of foam will float about 60 pounds of "dead weight".  The wood parts of your boat will probably float, so you don't need flotation foam to offset that weight. The fiberglass parts of your boat will barely sink, so you really don't need much foam to offset the fiberglass- maybe one cubic foot of foam per two hundred pounds (or more) of fiberglass hull.  The metal parts of your boat are what you really need to account for. A small (4-6hp) outboard may weigh 45-55 pounds.  A 50hp outboard will weigh about 200 pounds.  

So a 16 foot fiberglass skiff with a 50 horse outboard will need about six cubic feet of foam to keep it afloat.  A 12 foot plastic kayak will only need one cubic foot. A 30 foot fiberglass sailing sloop with a diesel engine and lead keel would need about 150 cubic feet of foam.  Actually, very few 30 foot keelboats have positive foam flotation, but it's not out of the question- especially when you consider all of the air pockets that would exist, as well as all of the wood interior components that provide some positive flotation.