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2010 new generation ! 17% Efficiency rate! GREAT PRICE! |
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25 Years warranty for the power |
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Customer has to pay shipping fee for replacing. |
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Paypal |
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Bid with confidence. |
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Winning bidder must contact us via email within 48 hours of auction closed. Contact email is required or winning bidder to provide arrange payment and shipping address. |
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Winning bidder must complete the sale transaction within 3 days of auction closed date. |
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Serious bidders ONLY. Non-paid bidders will be report to eBay and receive a negative feedback. |
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We always do our best to serve our customers. Customer satisfaction is our first priority. |
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Please email us if you have any questions. We will respond ASAP!!! |
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Seller will NOT be responsible for any installation and replacement fee. |
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Please make sure you have read the entire auction description and agree to complete the transaction before bidding or purchasing. |
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If buyer received a wrong item, please e-mail us first for confirmation. |
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Buyer is responsible for all return shipping cost. |
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Shipping cost will not be returned in any case. |
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All of our products are sold as brand new. We inspected and tightly pack our product before shipping out, so all damaged items are considered damaged during transit. Buyer must report any damages to seller within 3 days of receiving the unit. We will not honor any exchanges for damaged unit after 3 days. |
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Q: |
why can solar cells generate electricity? |
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A: |
Photovoltaics or PV for short can be thought of as a direct current (DC) generator powered by the sun. When light photons of sufficient energy strike a solar cell, they knock electrons free in the silicon crystal structure forcing them through an external circuit (battery or direct DC load), and then returning them to the other side of the solar cell to start the process all over again. The voltage output from a single crystalline solar cell is about 0.5V with an amperage output that is directly proportional to cell's surface area (approximately 7A for a 6 inch square multicrystalline solar cell). Typically 30-36 cells are wired in series (+ to -) in each solar module. This produces a solar module with a 12V nominal output (~17V at peak power) that can then be wired in series and/or parallel with other solar modules to form a complete solar array to charge a 12, 24 or 48 volt battery bank.
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Q: |
What components do I need? |
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A: |
There are many components that make up a complete solar system, but the 4 main items are: solar modules, charge controller(s), batteries and inverter(s). The solar modules are physically mounted on a mount structure (see question 7) and the DC power they produce is wired through a charge controller before it goes on to the battery bank where it is stored. The two main functions of a charge controller are to prevent the battery from being overcharged and eliminate any reverse current flow from the batteries back to the solar modules at night. The battery bank stores the energy produced by the solar array during the day for use at anytime of day or night. Batteries come in many sizes and grades. The inverter takes the DC energy stored in the battery bank and inverts it to 120 VAC to run your AC appliances.
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Q: |
Which kinds of location can solar work? |
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A: |
Solar is universal and will work virtually anywhere, however some locations are better than others. Irradiance is a measure of the sun's power available at the surface of the earth and it averages about 1000 watts per square meter. With typical crystalline solar cell efficiencies around 14-16%, that means we can expect to generate about 140-160W per square meter of solar cells placed in full sun. Insolation is a measure of the available energy from the sun and is expressed in terms of "full sun hours" (i.e. 4 full sun hours = 4 hours of sunlight at an irradiance level of 1000 watts per square meter). Obviously different parts of the world receive more sunlight from others, so they will have more "full sun hours" per day. The solar insolation zone map on the right will give you a general idea of the "full sun hours per day" for your location.
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Q: |
Can I use all of my normal 120/240 VAC appliances? |
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A: |
Maybe. Many older homes were not designed or built with energy efficiency in mind. When you purchase and install a renewable energy system for your home, you become your own power company so every kWh of energy you use means more equipment (and hence more money) is required to meet your energy needs. Any appliances that operate at 240 VAC (such as electric water heaters, cook-stoves, furnaces and air conditioners) are impractical loads to run on solar. You should consider using alternatives such as LP or natural gas for water/space heating or cooking, evaporative cooling instead of compressor based AC units and passive solar design in your new home construction if possible. Refrigeration and lighting are typically the largest 120 VAC energy consumers in a home (after electric heating loads) and these two areas should be looked at very carefully in terms of getting the most energy efficient units available. Great strides have been made in the past 5 years towards improving the efficiency of electric refrigerators/freezers. Compact fluorescent lights use a quarter to a third of the power of an incandescent light for the same lumen output and they last ten times longer. These fluorescent lights are now readily available at your local hardware or discount store. The rule of thumb in the renewable energy industry is that for every dollar you spend replacing your inefficient appliances, you will save three dollars in the cost of a renewable energy system to run them. So you can see that energy conservation is crucial and can really pay off when considering a renewable energy system.
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Q: |
Should I set my system's battery bank up at 12, 24 or 48 VDC? |
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A: |
The PV industry really began with the 12V recreational vehicle market. These systems were typically small (1-2 solar modules) and had all 12 VDC loads. As the solar industry matured and entered the home market, systems became much larger (16+ solar modules) and no longer used DC loads exclusively. Most home systems today are 24 or 48 VDC since the higher system voltage gives you a lot more flexibility as to how far away you can place your solar modules from the battery bank as compared to a 12V system. For a given power output, a higher system voltage reduces your amperage flow (but not your power) which allows you to use a smaller and less expensive gauge wire for your solar to battery and battery to inverter wire runs. Of course, if you already have a lot of 12VDC loads, that may be your deciding factor as to what voltage you set your system up at. Most grid-tied systems operate at 48 volts or higher. |
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Please see our recent feedback record. |
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Costomer satisfaction is our first priority. |
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We will answer your inquiries as quickly as possible. |
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Please feel free to send us ebay message if you have any questions. |
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