In this situation the combination of the parallel hole and the tapered pin means that the ball-end of the string is liable to work its way between the bridgepin and the edge of the bridge plate, leading eventually to a really messy, chewed up bridgeplate which will eventually require replacement, and which in the meantime will cause increasing problems with tuning stability.
The answer to this, as all luthiers know, is to fit a set of replacement pins which have been turned to an exact, known, taper, and to ream the hole with a reamer which corresponds exactly to that known taper.
The tapers which are universally used in bridgepin manufacture are 5 degrees and 3 degrees.
If you are replacing your pins, the best bet is to order a set of pins with a 5 degree taper, that way you are certain of being able to ream out the hole and get both a perfect fit , and a perfect level at the top of the bridge.
Prior to the advent of the TECHNOFRET Tapered Reamer , the only solution to seating bridgepins accurately was either to purchase a tapered reamer from Stewart MacDonald at a hefty £35.00, (or even upwards of £80.00 if you bought from a UK reseller ) or else to attempt a DIY bodge with a rat-tailed file. There is no doubt that the StewMac tool does the job well, but now there is an alternative which does the job totally, and indisputably, equally as well, at under half the price, and which is, in one important respect, actually superior.
The TECHNOFRET 5° Guitar Bridgepin Tapered Reamer is a high precision tool manufactured from cryogenically tempered stainless steel, 3mm thick, which has been cut with a state-of-the-art CNC waterjet specifically to produce a sharp cutting edge on two sides of the cutter, and a microscopically rounded edge on the other two sides.
The geometry of the blade means that the bridgepin hole will remain perfectly round while the reaming process is being carried out (if you are adept in mathematics you will realize that it is actually impossible for the hole NOT to remain round ).
The one respect in which the TECHNOFRET reamer is superior (apart of course from the price) is in the ability of the tool to cut both clockwise and anti-clockwise, due to the unique geometry of the blade. This will prove of great convenience if you are left-handed, and if you are right handed, well, it won't matter anyway.
The ease of use of this tool means that it can be used by guitar owners who are reasonably handy, as well as by guitar techs, and guitar builders, who will find it absolutely invaluable.
The recommended method of use is first of all to drill a few 3/16" holes in a scrap piece of hardwood which is the same thickness as the combined thicknesses of your bridge, top, and bridgeplate and, by trial and error, testing the bridgepin in the hole, establish the depth to which the reamer has to go to enable the pin to seat correctly. Once you have established this depth, wrap a piece of masking tape around the reamer blade at the point where the desired depth has been reached. and you can then replicate this in your actual bridge.
It has to be stressed, however, that as with all precision operations such as this, it is essential to proceed cautiously, ream a little at a time, and constantly test your progress, (in this instance by continual trial of the bridgepin fit) .
Think of it in the same way as when you file a slot in a guitar nut: you constantly check your progress to see that you haven't gone too far. Just the same with reaming bridgepin holes.
If you take your time, and monitor your progress as you go, you will end up with six bridgepins which seat absolutely identically, and which are a secure tight fit against the walls of the bridgepin holes, ensuring that the ball-ends of the strings are held tightly against the bridegplate, just as they should be. All this precision is hugely beneficial to tone and volume in your guitar.
The good news is that even if you do ream a fraction too far, and get a sloppy fit with the pin, the situation can be remedied by smearing some CA glue ( AKA "superglue") round the inside of the hole with a toothpick, and re-reaming the hole. It will then be good as new, and nobody will ever know ...
This auction is for a bridgepin reamer with a 5 degree taper, which is the most common taper for Martin pins and most replacement pins.
We also offer a reamer with a 3 degree taper, for those situations in which the 5 degrees is too steep. The optimum solution, of course, is to have a set of both reamers, and we offer an attractive deal which offers substantial savings when both reamers are purchased together.
To facilitate postage, especially international postage, all reamers are sent disassembled. Assembling them is simple, just slip the threaded bar through the hole in the body, slip on the shockproof washers and the locking nuts, and tighten them up. The pictures show the handle equidistantly placed, but you may well wish to have an assymetrical setting, to give added leverage. You have that option, so just experiment until you find the setting which best suits you. Once you have decided, then tighten the lock nuts, and cut the heat shrink tubing to whatever the two lengths are, leaving a 10mm (3/8" ) space at either end for the dome nut. Use a hair dryer or a hot air gun to shrink the tubing onto the bar, and then fit the dome nuts, making sure they are good and tight. These dome nuts are stainless steel locking NYLOC nuts, and after they have been tightened with a wrench, they will never come loose under normal usage.
All 5 degree reamers are sent out with Black shrink wrap for the handle, if you want a 3 degree reamer as well, you can choose your own secondary colour for the 3 degree reamer, either Red, Blue, Green, White or Yellow
This auction is for one 5 degree tapered bridgepin reamer.
To see the listing for the 3 degree reamer , click Here
To see the listing for the matched pair of one 5 degree reamer and one 3 degree reamer, click Here