New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable). Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. See the seller's listing for full details. See all condition definitions- opens in a new window or tab... Read moreabout the condition
THIS ENGINE HAS ZERO REMANUFACTURED OR REBUILT PARTS IN IT. IT'S 100% BRAND NEW FROM TOP TO BOTTOM, INCLUDING THE BLOCK, AS WELL AS OUR HIGH PERFORMANCE ALUMINUM HEADS.
NO ONE OFFERS THE PERFORMANCE AND DURABILITY AT THE PRICE WERE OFFERING THIS ENGINE FOR. THIS IS AN INTRODUCTORY PRICE, AND IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. THE COMBINATION OF PARTS ARE WHAT MAKE THIS ENGINE VERY UNIQUE.
NOTE: THESE ENGINES REQUIRE USE OF ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP, THEY HAVE NO FUEL PUMP ROD BORE OR PROVISIONS FOR USE OF A MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP!
Complete from intake to aluminum oil pan, with your choice of intake, the Typhoon or Hurricane in satin finish. We also have this engine available with a polished intake. See our other listings.
This engine is fully assembled.
We have now included a flat rate
shipping fee on this engine for the 48 state USA This rate only applies to
delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use
a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered
to a residential with lift gate service but at an additional cost. You engine
will be on a pallet, and you will recieve a roll around engine cradle at no
additional cost. The value of the engine cradle is appox. $50.00 Your engine
will also be fully insured. You are welcome to come pickup your engine in
person, and delete the shipping cost. You may also take a tour of our facility.
We have come up with the ultimate street/strip sbc engine. It produces 413hp@ 5800 rpm and 400lb feet of torque at 4800 rpm. This engine is dyno proven. We use a Super Flo Dyno, the most advanced on the market.
SEE OUR STAGE ONE ENGINE IN ACTION AT THE BRISTOL DRAGSTRIP, VIEW THE VIDEO CLIP AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE.
We can also set this engine up for use in a work truck application. We will build the engine with a different cam and intake better suited for use in a load pulling application. A sacrifice of a slight amount of top end hp is inevitable, but the torque range will be moved down the rpm range. The engine will far exceed the factory setup in hp and torque output.
If you have a street rod project going, and need an engine, this is your best value, and offers the highest level of reliability and performance for the cost you will ever find. This we are confident off. We have reviewed all of the competition, and our package far exceeds everything on the market considering all the factors.
Valve covers, intake, aluminum oil pan, Melling high pressure oil pump kit, chrome over aluminum timing cover are all included, plus hardware. Several valve cover options pictured below. All engine are painted black. The engine below has aluminum roller rockers. We prefer to use the stainless version, due to there exceptional durability. The Hurricane or Typhoon intake, your choice, small head stainless bolt kit included. The Typhoon is very much like the Edelbrock RPM Performer. It's slightly lower for those with low hood clearance. Both of the intakes mentioned above are most likely to tall for the C-3 Corvettes with stock hoods. Pro Products offers a near stock height intake, (Cyclone), but the performance will suffer somewhat. The Typhoon has a better low end throttle response and seems to move the torque range down a bit, but sacrifices about 10hp off the top. This intake is desirable in heavy vehicles or those willing to sacrifice a little off the top, for a better response off the line, or need more hood clearance.
The new series Procomp aluminum heads are outstanding, and are fully built and installed on these engines. Stainless roller rockers are installed, and chromoly one pc. pushrods
Pictured below are the fabricated aluminum valve covers. One of several choices. Polished intakes are an upgrade. You will have the choice of the Satin Hurricane or Typhoon intake. See more pictures below. CARB IS NOT INCLUDED.
NOTE: THESE ENGINES REQUIRE USE OF ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP, THEY HAVE NO FUEL PUMP ROD BORE OR PROVISIONS FOR USE OF A MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP.
The ribbed aluminum oil pan is included, and is not installed. You will also recieve the one inch chrome studded mini nut set, pictured below, to mount the oil pan.
SFI rated flexplate for use on the one pc. rear main seal engine. These are extreme duty. This item is included, but not installed. As mentioned above these are some of the items that when installed, will prevents us from using the factory crate. A very simple item to install. All hardware included. Pictured below is the Pro Products damper that is included, and hardware. Your choice of 6.75" or 8" size.
Below are some of the race level components we are using in the engine. Our engines are built and ready to deliver.
Pictured above are the aluminum heads used on our Stage One engine. Combined with our Howards cam, you will have the highest horse power available in a 350 engine using premium pump gas, while maintaining excellent drivability.
BUILD SHEET,
NOTE: THESE ENGINES REQUIRE USE OF ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP, THEY HAVE NO FUEL PUMP ROD BORE OR PROVISIONS FOR USE OF A MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP!
L31 Short block brand new from GM, LT style rods, cast nodular crank, hypereutectic pistons.
4 bolt main block. One pc. rear main seal design, compatible with all early style GM vehicles.
2.02 race grade stainless valves, one pc. swirl finish, undercut. 2.46 diameter springs with dampers.
chromoly retainers. We assemble heads at our shop. All gaskets used are Premium series Fel Pro except for the valve covers.
Our head builder is on of the best in the country in our honest opinion. Our engine builder that installs the heads, has over 15 years experience.
One pc, chromoly pushrods, 80 thous. wall thickness, no welded ball. True race grade pushrods.
Our extreme duty Eaton lifters, anti pump up design. Fact without a doubt, a must on any high performance engine.
Melling high pressure oil pump, (wide neck series)
Ribbed aluminum oil pan with Fel Pro blue series neoprene oil pan gasket, and one inch studded mini nut set.
Howards, 488-510 lift. Hydraulic Flat Tappet style, also available with hyd. roller cam.
Melling Tru Double roller timing components. The Tru SINGLE roller timing set is twice the cost of a regular single roller.
Pro Race harmonic damper/balancer, your choice, on size, 6.75 or 8.00 with damper bolt kit.
SFI rated 168 tooth flex plate. Made in the USA best grade on the market. Race grade bolt kit included.
Your choice of five different varieties of valve covers, fabricated also available. One inch studded mini nuts included, as well as our neoprene, steel core valve cover gaskets.
Your choice of intake manifold. Pro Products, The dual plane Typhoon or Hurricane or Cyclone for those with very low profile hoods such as in the C-3 Corvette. Satin finish. Polished is an upgrade.
Stainless small head intake bolt kit. Intake gaskets included.
This engine is brand new, and build to very high standards, and unlikely to ever give you a problem. We would consider the reliability to be very high on this engine. Our testing has more than proven that this engine to be very durable under aggressive driving conditions, not to mention that the Gen Two GM short block built and assembled by GM is one of their most dependable ever built. We have sold many of these in the past, and have had zero failures. You must use an engine oil that has a high level zinc compound in it. There are many such oils on the market, namely most diesel engine oils. If you want to run your favorite engine oil, then you can purchase the zinc oil additive. All engines running flat tappet camshafts must use oils with this additive in them. Premature camshaft wear is inevitable if the oil your using does not have high levels of this additive. Cam break in procedures must also be followed during initial startup on this engine. It is very rare to ever have camshaft problems if the above information is adhered to, but it is very likely you will have problems if this is not the case. The zinc additive must be used at all times, or an oil that has high levels of this compound in it.
Listed below are items NOT INCLUDED
NO CARB, NO DISTRIBUTOR, NO WIRE LOOMS, NO HEADERS, NO SPARK PLUGS OR WIRES, NO PULLEYS OR WATER PUMP, NO BRACKETS, NO WATER NECK, NO AIR CLEANER, NO VALVE COVER BREATHERS
This engine basically makes the 383 not such a value. We see no point in spending the huge amount of money to obtain a 10% increase in engine size for what amounts to an even less percentage gain in hp. The drawbacks to the 383 engine also make it impractical. Many people have went to the 383 just to get there engine in the low 400hp range. We are doing it easily with a 350, and our torque range is 390 feet + from 3200 and up. The Superflo dyno will not register below this rpm range, but we are sure those numbers would still be very high below this rpm range. The same numbers you see with the 383 were always able to be achieved with a 350, but at a great loss of drivability and often at great expense. We have achieved this and kept the cost very low and the drivability high.
The 383 really has only one advantage and it is that the torque range is moved down lower in the rpm range. If the 350 we offer had a deficit of torque in that range, then having the torque numbers come in lower would be of good advantage, however, our engine simply has no such deficit of torque at low rpm. I can't think of any reason to buy a 383 unless you really are after that extra torque. An increase in cubic inch has always been the easy way of achieving higher hp numbers and this was simple for the factory, as this was the low cost way for them to give you more power. If it were not for the epa regulations and rising fuel cost, we would most likely all have V-12 engines with a displacement of around 700 cubic inches and making less hp than the common V-6 engines of today at the rate auto makers were going. For them to increase an engines cubic inch is very easy and low in cost. Nothing more than a slightly higher amount of raw materials in building the larger engines. The factory does not do this so readily anymore. As we know larger engines produce higher levels of emissions and become more inefficient on fuel. Today the auto makers may increase an engine size to gain power, but they are always improving the design and efficiency of the engine along with this. It's all about making an engine efficient, along with a perfect combination of parts, and this is what we have done with our Stage One engine. You will see the price increase on this soon, but we are just trying to get it out on the market and hope the word will spread as to what a wonderful engine package this is considering its very low cost.
With the modern technology that's currently on the market, we can get you where you want to be using the most dependable size engine ever built, "Chevy 350 cubic inch". Have you noticed that the auto makers have been achieving huge hp and torque numbers on much smaller engines than in the past. One good example is the Chevy 5.3 truck engine. This is only 325 cubic inches, and puts out 315hp. Even the Chevy 4.8 V-8 is putting out around 300 hp. We whole heartedly say "forget going to a 383 engine. You don't need it." If your in world class competition and cubic inch and cost are not an issue then go for it. The reliability with our 350 far exceeds that of a 383 It's the long stroke in the 383 that makes it low on the endurance scale. The 350 will also run cooler even when matched in hp, especially since our new engine has much thicker cylinder walls than a bored out engine. The fuel consumption with the 383 is off the charts high compared to our 350, this we can attest to. Just 10 years ago, we or anyone else could not have came up with a 350 engine to produce these hp and torque numbers, while maintaining streetability, durability, fuel mileage, and most importantly LOWCOST. The head technology, along with the outstanding cam grinds to match up with these heads, have made something never before possible. As for those certain sellers offering engines on various websites, eBay included, and claiming what we consider to be false numbers, well that is going to be up to you the consumer, to do your homework, and know that certain combinations will not make the power claimed, not to mention the often shoddy work building them. Purchasing this engine will remove any of those issues, as this engine is 100% brand new, and the short block section is all built by GM. We do the top end assembly, such as heads, cam, timing chain, pushrods etc, and we have one of the best head builders ever known, at least to us.
As mentioned above we have taken the 350 engine to what we consider its peak while maintaining drivability, and endurance. This is considering what a low price we are offering it for. We can increase the hp numbers, and still maintain the drivability, and longevity by running a set of AFR cnc ported heads, and running an ultra lightweight rotating assembly, roller cam, titanium valve train components, but as you know the cost begins to rise out of proportion to the hp gained, at least for the average street rodder. Racers want every bit of hp they can get, regardless of cost. Street rodders like to hit a happy medium, and this engine is it.
If you think you have found a comparable engine, all things considered, please let us know. We are willing to bet you will never find it, especially a completely brand new engine with nothing rebuilt or remanufactured.
Much trial and error was endured in coming up with what we consider the best street rod engine ever built. You simply don't need to go to a 383 to obtain huge hp and torque numbers. We no longer offer the 383, (other than parts) as this engine is much more practical. We wish we could put in writing what this engine feels like in Skips car, the Datsun 240 Z. The acceleration is incredible. No factory car, such as Corvette, or even the Dodge Viper stands a chance against it. Our car weighs 2800 with driver, so it's not a feather weight car as many suspect it to be. It has a full race roll cage, Dana 60 diff. Th-400 trans. This is only about three hundred pounds lighter than the 67-69 Camaro, and most early model Novas.
What is most unusual about this setup is that it is very streetable, and smooths out at 1800 rpm. Runs on premium pump gas and gets very good fuel mileage with timing set at 36 degrees total. For smoother operation and cooler operating set timing at 35 total.
We have done extensive testing over the last three months. Our combination of parts has proven to exceed any 350 engine on the market, considering its very low cost and street manners. Please don't compare rebuilt engines to this as we consider this engine to be superior to a machined crusty old block that has been assembled by someone you hope gets it right. The rebuilt engines on the market may run about the same if setup like this, but the longevity is positively questionable.
Durability will not be a problem, as this engine uses hydr. flat tappet cam, and only has 9.7:1 compression ratio. You can drive it from NY to LA if desired. It's very smooth on the highway. Engine temp is extremely low when cruising, around 165 at night and never exceeds 190 in the day time traffic. Any block that is at standard bore will run cooler than a 30 over and much cooler than a 40 to 60 over. Only in the coolest of climates will a bored block run as cool as a standard and winter time is just not the optimal time for most street rodders.
The full roller rockers we use are the strongest on the market.
We have noticed other eBay sellers offering 350's in this hp range and positively know it to be impossible. They are using oem cast iron heads and running much milder cams. We have taken our testing beyond the dyno, onto the drag strip, to obtain absolute proof that our engine is making some serious hp. This engine runs in the upper 11's in the quarter mile, in a car that weighs 2800lbs with driver. We have yet to find a car that has a 350 running in the compression range we are, as well as weight class that can run this fast, and use premium pump gas.
As far as durability the engine has a brand new Second Generation short block directly from GM. Second Generation engines were used in the Vortec era, and in Corvettes using roller cams. The rods are LT style, the block is a 4 bolt main, pistons are hypereutectic and the crank is nodular iron. All these features make the bottom end on this engine very strong, and much stronger than previous 350 engine designs from the 80's or older. We have more than proven it's durability, with over 60 pulls on the dyno, and at least 50 runs at the track. The reason we made so many pulls on the dyno is that it was part of the extensive testing to come up with the right combination of parts. Our hp numbers started out -50hp from what we ended up with. Our extensive amount of runs at the track were to get our car setup correctly and we are still working on that. We know what is on the market when it comes to this class of engine and have yet to find anything close to it in hp numbers considering it's very good drivability and durability. Every trip to the Bristol Drag Strip, is a 55 mile trip there and back. This is where we did a precise fuel mileage test. We came up with 15.5 miles per gallon and this car has a TH-400 trans, no overdrive, and is geared with a 4.10 rear end, and has a 2800-3200 stall converter in it. Can you believe the carb is a 750 Holley double pumper. Imagine this setup with an overdrive transmission with vac. secondary Holley, and as most of you know any transmission is more efficient than the massive TH-400. It's rotational drag is huge.
We encountered many stumbling blocks to come up with such a perfect combination of parts. The Crane Blue Racer cam was a perfect choice for this engine, as well as the brand new Gen Two GM short blocks that we thought might be the perfect choice to use for the bottom half. We have been amazed at how well it has held up to the hard running we have put it through. We are having to run it to 6000 rpm in every gear, especially at the end of the track to cross the finish line. We have to hit nearly 6000 rpm to keep the engine in it's torque range when it drops to the next gear. This rpm is excessive and if not for the discovery of a very good brand of anti pump-up lifter, we could not have ran the engine at this speed. We are loosing et, by running this far past the peak hp rpm of 5700, but the quarter mile is so much more demanding than the 1/8th mile track and we are just out of gear. This car is blistering fast in the 1/8th. If we set it up for the 1/8th we could get it into the high 6's most likely. It's setup somewhere in the middle right now. It does good in the 1/8th, and 1/4 as well as the street. We are going to set it up for 1/4 mile only, and may achieve numbers in the mid 11,s The car will actually be more suitable for the street when we do this. A higher stall converter and taller gear are our next step. We are also going to test the car with a Holley 750 vac. sec. carb. It has a double pumper on it now, and these are very expensive carbs. As you may know we offer only the Vac. sec. carb. and at a great deal in our other listings, about half the price of a mechanical double pumper. We may loose et, but I don't think we will loose $250.00 worth, and that's how much extra those carbs are over the vac. sec. We will see. Oh, we will also test the fuel mileage again. I'm willing to bet the vac. sec. gets a little better fuel mileage. The engine you recieve will be identical to what's in Skips car, and 100% brand new from top to bottom. Nothing remanufactured, rebuilt, or reconditioned. Just perfectly brand new!
Those on eBay selling oem cast iron head engines, with cams that are only a couple steps above stock, and then claiming 350-425 hp, should challenge us running a car of the same weight. We can assure you they would be at least 15-20 car lengths behind us at the finish line. This is why we wanted track time with this engine, just as all new car manufacture give 0-60 mph times, as well as quarter mile run times. We know you may not run this engine to it's max very often, but you want to know that if you do then it's going to be fast.
We now have a video clip for viewing at the bottom of this add. This was one of many pass's we made with our test engine at the Bristol Drag Strip.We will have several more clips soon.
Just to give you an idea of how fast a car is running when achieving numbers in the upper 11 range. The new Corvette Z06 with the LS7 engine is barely capable of this et. The best the 2003-2007 Dodge Viper SRT ever made in stock form, was 11.90 and this takes an expert driver to come up with this. You may have a heavier vehicle than what ours is, but that's not going to slow you down that much. Our car weighs 2800 with driver, but has the most inefficient transmission, (Turbo 400) ever made. We will go to a TH-350 when this wears out, if it ever does, as they are tuff.
Below is more info on the new GM short block we are using for the Stage One build up.
Notice the cross hatch in the cylinder walls. As you know GM must have this right. It's not uncommon for someone with a Vortec era motor to tell you he has over 100,000 with zero oil consumption between oil changes. Try that with a reman engine. Many machine shops tend to not get the cross hatch finish just right, and if the reman engine was not plate honed, it will most likely consume oil, and loose compression. GM has the cross hatch perfect.
The pistons are hypereutectic, with LT style pm rods, nodular crankshaft.
The block is a 4 bolt main, much stronger than the 2 bolt version. This is all that GM offered in the Vortec era, and for good reason. Using a 2 bolt main block in a street rod build up is asking for trouble. You will quickly learn the definition of, "cap walk".
The LT PM rods are far stronger than early style rods. They can easily handle up to 500hp possibly more.
The cast nodular crank is also much stronger than GM's early style cast iron crank. These crankshafts have been known to handle build ups in the 500hp level without failing.
Notice the timing cover face. It appears very different than early style blocks. It is different, but all timing components, and cover from early model engines fit perfectly, as well as both early long and short water pumps dating back to the 50's and of course the reverse rotation pump of the 80's and 90's. GM left much more material in this area for some reason. No doubt making it much stronger for crank and timing component support.
As many of you know the early 2pc rear main engines are notorious for leaking oil, no matter what you do. The new style 1pc. rear main seal is noted for not leaking, even after 200,000 miles in many cases. A perfect design, and completely compatible for installation in any model vehicle that came with a 2 pc rear main seal.
Notice the rainbow of color markings all over the bottom end parts. Those are quality control check points, often repeated by GM to assure every spec is as it should be. Few rebuilt engine companies do this. We have seen it more times than you can imagine, an oil pump falling of. You must know that GM has an extremely low amount of hard part failures. The outside of the block is also loaded with paint markings of many colors, number codes. It's all part of quality control. You may want to touch up the block with some black paint as it has so many markings and bar codes on it, just as are when installed in a new truck or car. GM used brass freeze plugs on these engines, unlike early model using steel plugs. Our aluminum heads mount onto this short block perfectly
As you can see in the picture below, GM balances the crank in what appears to be incremental steps, instead of hogging out one area of the crank, as we have seen many shops do, to save on labor. Our test engine is very smooth at 6000 rpm. As you can see in the picture below, these engines use four bolt main blocks.
The short block part of this engine came to us without, camshaft, oil pump, lifters, pushrods, or oil pan. This worked out perfectly for us, as those are the parts we have upgraded for our Stage One buildup. We offer all of those upgrade items in our listings. We wouldn't change a thing on the way this setup comes to us, oh but there is one thing, we certainly would have wanted the pistons to have been flat top, but as the info below points out, a simple milling down of the heads put us where we needed to be for the Stage One engine.
This is the best short block we could have chosen for our Stage One 418hp 350 complete engine. The testing has been very extensive, and somewhat abusive. We are going to run a nitrous setup on the engine next week. Our main goal is to accelerate the engines life span, as well as the car. We will go up to 150hp shot on the nos, and do this repeatablely. If the engine holds up to this total hp of 568 hp, for at least 15 runs, then this is going to be sure proof of it's ability to handle the 418hp from now on. Actually the 6000 rpm range we are taking the engine up to on every run, is more demanding on the engines internals, than anything else we could do. The many hard launches at the track (we are running ET Streets on the car) is also somewhat demanding of the engines crankshaft. Skip claims that if the engine blew up today, we are pretty sure that we have ran the engine as hard as most street rodders would have in a life time, but it's still running as well as the day we first dynoed it. The engine you receive will be identical to what's in Skip’s car, and 100% brand new from top to bottom. Nothing remanufactured, rebuilt, or reconditioned. Just perfectly brand new!
This is the strongest 350 short block,(lower section) assembly GM has ever made. The L31 was used in the 96-up 350 GM trucks up to one ton series, Suburban, 3500 series vans, as well as the first roller cam Corvettes. The block is a four bolt main, with roller cam capability, but can easily be used with a flat tappet cam and lifters, as we are using in our Stage One engine. The mounting position is the same as early model Chevy V-8's so you can use this engine in any of the early model vehicles that had the 2pc. rear main seal engines. As many of know the 1pc. rear main seal is far superior in resistance to oil leakage. This Second Generation short block also has many improvements over the early style blocks, but as mentioned is totally adaptable in early model cars and trucks. The only thing you can not use is the same flex plate or flywheel, due to the different mounting pattern on the back of the crank, but this is not a problem, as the cost is very low for this item, especially if you have an automatic. The new style flex plates will bolt right up to your early model TH-350, Power glide, and TH-400 as well as most torque converters.
To properly rebuild your worn out 350, you will end up spending about the same price, and if you have a two pc. rear main seal block, it's insane to spend all that money on a block that is more than inferior in design, but also very fatigued, from age and usage. Most machine shops that we know of can not build the same reliability into a typical street rod that will compare to a fresh factory engine, especially the Second Generation 350 that we are using. Used blocks that have been bored out to 30 over, will usually guarantee heating issues when used in a high hp street rod. Add in the combination of high summer temps, aggressive timing, hard running, and you will have a hard time keeping them cool. Not so with a standard bore. The cylinder walls are much thicker and dissipate heat at a much faster rate. Our test engine runs very cool even when running back to back races at the drag strip. It's very noticeable, as most others using early style corroded blocked bored 30 over almost always heat up a good bit after a run in hot weather. As far as getting an hp gain with 5 cubic inches, it's usually only about 3-5 and this is somewhat offset from the hotter temps the engine is running. We like to see an engine run as cool as possible, and then we feel ok running our timing at the aggressive level to obtain more peak hp.
The pistons in these engines are hypereutectic, and will withstand much more hp than regular cast pistons. This is a well known fact, and they have many other benefits. They are unfortunately a dish style piston, but only -13cc unlike the early model dish pistons that were -18cc A milling down of the heads to 60cc and using a thin shim head gasket, such as the Fel Pro 1094 gave us a compression ratio of 9-7:1 more than enough to match up with our 488-510 cam. This also allowed the safe use of pump gas. Even those wanting to run a milder setup, and have heads that have 64cc combustion chambers, will still have a compression range of about 9.3;1 When using the same head gasket mentioned above. This lower compression would more than support a one step milder cam choice, and be perfect for a blower setup. If you have a truck you will want the compression range lower, as the choice cams for trucks when towing is involved usually don't require the compression to be any higher. Decking your existing heads is not a problem, and works out very well. The only thing you will have to do is slot your alternator bracket, as your heads are in a lower position. Most any head can be decked down to 58cc for around $25-30 each. Any machine shop can do this.
A final note to those thinking about doing a rebuild using there crusty, corroded block that usually requires boring due to ring groove wear. Do you really think it could ever possibly run a quarter million miles in a big 4X4 Suburban? We think not, due to many reasons. Two main reasons, we have came up with is that these old blocks have seen better days, and most machine shops that do the machining and assembly do not invest enough quality time into these procedures, and may not even have the ability, not to mention the Gen 2 block has many improvements in it's design compared to the 2pc. rear main seal Gen 1 blocks. You can rest assure, there are many machine shops that won't even do a plate hone on the block, as well as line hone the mains, or many will tell you they have done this and they have not. Some even claim this is really not needed. We know for a fact that it's required to prevent compression blow-by. Those are much needed procedures, and take a good bit of skill to perform. GM sold hundreds of thousands of trucks using this style block in the Vortec era and its well noted that few gave any problems for many years of hard driving and towing. You may say you’re not planning on running a quarter million miles, just wanting a good low usage street rod, well we can tell you for sure that any high hp buildup is more demanding than high mileage usage. We have more than proven these short blocks to withstand high hp, and the testing is not over. Nitrous is next. We are not saying these engines are anywhere near as capable as a forged bottom end, but we are quite sure that they can easily withstand a the high performance upgrade we build them to, plus what better way to test the durability of the bottom end. If it handles the juice, in small to medium amounts think how well it will do without it, and that part has been more than proven.
A properly machined short block can cost up to $800.00 and you may end up with a crankshaft that's been turned, and resized rods, that are well fatigued. Yes, old rods are very prone to stretching, and fatigue, "they can break under hard load". They were not very strong when new, let alone when used and machined down. If your doing a budget rebuild, and don't want to invest the money in doing right, you will most likely suffer engine failure.
As for those using the so called seasoned blocks and then boring them out to .30 over, are truly compromising the integrity of the block. This for sure creates a more difficult to cool engine. There is a slight truth about cast iron becoming harder when aged, much like your bones do when well seasoned, "hard and brittle". Then you have corrosion, in the water jacket, and believe me, they are usually very corroded, and now you’re going to bore the already weak cylinder walls. We have never offered these junk yard 2pc. rear main seal rebuilds, and never will. Ask Dart Machinery if they have any problems due to lack of seasoning with one of their brand new Dart Little M blocks, built to handle around 1200 hp. Dart blocks have extremely thick cylinder walls, over a stock block, and Dart is not trying to add dead weight to the front of your race car without good reason. This pretty much proves that thicker cylinder walls are needed when running extreme buildups. So think about that when you want to bore out your stock corroded overly seasoned block. Go with the brand new complete engine package we are offering, and you may never need another engine for the rest of your life.
Give us a call for application info. We have an excellent tech. support 423-722-5152 ask for Sara or Rob, or you may use the contact tab and send us an email. If you need a shipping quote, email or call us. We will need your phone number, zip code, res. or commercial delivery. The shipping rates are usually much less than most people think.
The heads used are the 23 degree design, Procomps newest series. Intake runner volume is 210cc, chamber volume is 58cc THESE ENGINES CAN BE ASSEMBLED USING STRAIGHT OR ANGLE PLUG HEADS, YOUR CHOICE. These heads have an extra thick deck, hardened intake and exhaust seats with manganese bronze valve guides.
The benefits of running aluminum heads over cast iron are many. Here are just a few,
REDUCES OVER ALL WEIGHT, AND DRAMATICALLY IMPROVES FRONT TO REAR WEIGHT BALANCE, (WEIGHT TRANSFER), THEREFORE IMPROVING TRACTION, AND HANDLING.
ALLOWS THE USE OF USE OF PREMIUM FUEL AT A COMPRESSION RATIO THAT WOULD OTHERWISE, BE VERY UNSAFE FOR THE ENGINE WITH CAST IRON HEADS.
ENGINES RUN COOLER, AS ALUMINUM DISSIPATES HEAT MUCH QUICKER.
THE RESALE VALUE OF YOUR ENGINE OR CAR IS MUCH HIGHER WITH ALUMINUM HEADS.
HIGH PERFORMANCE ALUMINUM HEADS ARE DOWNRIGHT IMPRESSIVE ON AN ENGINE, (BRAGGING RIGHTS ARE ESTABLISHED)
THE FASTEST CARS IN THE WORLD ON THE TRACK AND STREET, ALL USE ALUMINUM HEADS.
THERE ARE NO DRAWBACKS TO USING ALUMINUM HEADS, ONLY ADVANTAGES.
ENOUGH SAID!
Check out our other auctions for wholesale prices on parts you can't find anywhere.
Give us a call at 423-722-5152 or 877-383-5152 should you have and application issue. We can most likely answer any question you have.
A few good pics. below, remember no carb, headers or distributor with this engine package. These pics are intended to show you the many choices of valve covers and intakes we offer.
Update June/5/08
We have not installed the nitrous system on Skips car, but have been to the track every week, and the car is running fine. We have lost a couple tenths off our et, from our best time, but the outside temp is getting very hot. When we first started running it was at least 30 degrees cooler than it is now, and this will make any car loose a couple tenths. We are working on other changes in the car that will have to be done before the nitrous is added. We have installed the spool, and disc brakes, and will be installing the aluminum radiator this week. We are going to the aluminum radiator because it is a new item we are now selling, not because the car needs it. It is doing fine with conventional style copper/brass unit, and it is not even a cross flow model. The aluminum radiator is only 22 inches wide, and we want to reduce weight, as well as see if this much smaller radiator can keep the engine cool.
We have now included a flat rate
shipping fee on this engine for the 48 state USA This rate only applies to
delivery to a business with the capability to unload the engine without the use
a lift gate. You must have a dock or fork lift. We can have the engine delivered
to a residential with lift gate service but at an additional cost. You engine
will be on a pallet, and you will recieve a roll around engine cradle, and lift plate at no
additional cost. The value of the engine cradle is appox. $59.00 Your engine
will also be fully insured. You are welcome to come pickup your engine in
person, and delete the shipping cost. You may also take a tour of our facility.
HOURS OF OPERATION, 8AM-7PM EASTERN M-F AND 10-3 ON SAT. REMEMBER EASTERN TIME IS THREE HOURS AHEAD OF THE WESTCOAST.
Give, us a call or email for tech info on this engine. You may pay with credit or debit card if you are unable to do this through paypal, or we can assist you with your paypal account if you are having a problem. 423-722-5152 Use the contact seller tab when emailing questions.
EMAIL OR CALL US FOR MORE TECHNICAL INFO 423-722-5152
HOURS OF OPERATION: 8-8 EASTERN M-F TIME REMEMBER EASTERN TIME IS THREE HOURS AHEAD OF THE WESTCOAST.
CUSTOMER SERVICE AVAILABLE BETWEEN 8-8PM MON.-FRI. GIVE US A CALL AT 877-383-5152 OR 423-722-5152
VIEW THIS VIDEO CLIP OF OUR STAGE ONE ENGINE IN ACTION. THE CAR RAN AN 11.9 THAT DAY. YOUR ENGINE WILL BE BRAND NEW, IDENTICAL TO WHAT WE HAVE IN OUR COMPANY RACE CAR, (SKIPS DATSUN 240Z) WE RUN OUR ENGINE UP TO 6000 RPM EVERY RUN. IF YOU HAVE A U-TUBE ACCOUNT, PLEASE LEAVE COMMENTS ON SITE. THIS WILL GIVE US AN IDEA OF WHERE THE VIEWING TRAFFIC IS COMING FROM. WE WILL HAVE MORE CLIPS VERY SOON.
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