You are bidding on a John Deere 350 sickle mower with a 9' bar in great condition. It has a really good sickle and the guards are in good shape as well. It has a brand new dividing board on the end of the bar and a brand new drive belt. The pto shaft and u-joints are in really good condition and it is good and tight all over. I have used this machine for several weeks around here and it works great. No, I haven't used it for a few weeks with all of the rain and cold weather here, but it has been in the shed behind my tractor since I used it.
I take advantage of a machine like this when I get one in and mow my banks and anything that requires a lot of angle out of the bar. I have a bank that runs the entire length of my property. (see picture #12) NO! before someones scolds me, that is not the same mower in that picture! I did not have my camera when I cut the bank with this mower. That is actually an International 1300 that I sold a few months ago. I am just showing you the capabilities of the mower. I put my right side tires in the ditch and the bar stands up at about a fourty five degree angle and follows that bank perfectly. This is about the only way you can mow a bank like this. This is what you call a balanced head machine, which means that it will cut in any position, including the completely folded over, carry position. This thing is greased and ready to go. You have to do nothing but hook it up. Which by the way, is not hard to do at all. If you come to pick up your mower and you would like, I can hook it up once so you can get the idea of how to do it. (weather permitting) If I am shipping it to you, feel free to call me after the sale if needed, and I will walk you through hooking it up. It is very simple.
If you would like, I will give you a complete demonstration on how to hook up and operate this mower when you pick it up. If it is not what I said, then you don't have to take it!
You are not going to buy a sickle mower cheaper, any time of the year than right now! I have sold a lot of these and this will probably be the cheapest one that I sell all year due to the fact that it is December. But, in about three months it's going to be March so buy it now while it is cheap.
I don't have 30 or 40 items for sale at all times, but that is because I go through each machine and use it long enough that I feel comfortable standing behind it. You will not find any areas on my mowers that have been hidden from you, left dirty to cover a crack, or painted on to hide excessive wear. I have seen everything and I don't play those games. If this mower is not exactly as I say it is, I would like to know about it. THIS THING IS GUARANTEED TO WORK AS I SAY IT DOES OR I WILL BUY IT BACK!
John Deere 350
Category 1 or 2
Balanced head mower
Good pto shaft and u-joints
Good and tight all over
No damage ever
NATIONWIDE SHIPPING FOR A FLAT RATE OF $249.00 TO YOUR DOOR.
All bearings, belts, etc., on all of my machines, have been checked and replaced or adjusted as needed. All grease zerks take grease, and each machine has been greased and is ready to hook up and go, unless otherwise stated.
Thanks, in advance.
- Please check out the other machinery that I have on here.
- You are welcome to give me a call any day of the week. (9-5 is best)
- Alan, 660-909-6846
If you are picking up this item, PayPal is always accepted, but I would prefer if you would pay by cash or cashier's check when you get here to avoid PayPal fees. (either way is fine) Delivery is also available at $2.00/mile, paid one way. (50 miles from me to you = 50 miles X $2.00 = $100.00) Sorry for the first grade math explanation but this should take care of any misunderstanding as to what is meant by "paid one way." If you buy more than one item and I can get them all on one load, I will make you a really great deal on the shipping for each additional item. SEE LONGER DISTANCE SHIPPING BELOW.
Local pick-up is always free. I have a loader on hand.
I will ship this machine anywhere in the 48 lower United States for $249.00. This includes the cost of the skid and the two to four 1000 lb. ratchet straps that I use to attatch it to the skid. (these are obviously yours upon arrival.) This is usually what it costs me and I think that is about as fair as I can be. Please allow up to 5 business days to get it on the truck.
Please email me for a price on International shipping.
INFORMATION I NEED AFTER THE SALE:
- What is the exact address that you need it shipped to?
- What is your daytime phone number? The shipper will need this to contact you.
- Do you need a lift gate, or do you have a dock or a loader of some kind to get it unloaded? (the cost for a lift gate is $50.00 extra).
THINGS TO CONSIDER
You can spend a lot of money real fast if you buy a machine that needs some work. I know that I'm not the only one that has ever sold one of these before but I can guarantee you that I have used the machine around my farm, usually for several weeks. I have a 35 acre farm, and I keep at least 5 acres of it mowed down real nice through the Spring, Summer, and Fall, and I mow it ALL with the mowers that I sell. I sell a few of these exact same mowers throughout the year and I kind of know what to look for. Even if you don't buy a mower from me, you should keep this information in the back of your head when you go to look at one. I will keep adding information about different mowers as well in case I don't happen to be selling one right now that's similar to one that you're looking at elsewhere. I sell a lot of sickle mowers.
NEW HOLLAND 450 AND 451 / 455 AND 456
- Look at the head assembly on these mowers. They are possibly the best mower that you can buy but if those bearings are worn out or there is a cast iron piece broken, you might really be in for some sticker shock when you go to fix it.
- That hoop on the front has to be there. That raises and lowers the sickle when you raise and lower your 3-point. It is also the stabilizing system. (again, very expensive if it is broken and I have not figured out a way to make it work well without it.
- Look at the bolt that is loosened to adjust the angle of your guards. It is broken quite often and takes about an hour to fix once you figure out how to do it.
- Take a good look at picture# 7. You will see a bracket with a pulley bolted to it and a cable running around the pulley. This bracket has been broken off or is almost broken off, on 50% of the mowers that I buy, as well as the bracket shown at the top center of the picture that has the large spring attached to it. There are good ways to fix this problem, but most are fixed in an extreme hurry and will break again really soon.
- As with any balanced head mower, the belt lasts almost for ever but is expensive if it broken or missing.
- That is a special bolt that holds the sickle in the mower. DO NOT use anything else. Go to your Ford dealer and get one if yours is worn or it is missing. If you are in question, the head of the bolt, as well as the nut are tapered like a lug nut for a wheel. This keeps the plates from getting worn out from the fast movement.
JOHN DEERE 350 AND 450
- For example, that pin that goes through the end of your sickle is about $60.00. I try to see that this is not worn badly.
- You can make something, but if it has the original triangular shaped attachment for your draw bar, that's nice. This is what raises your bar when you lift your mower and keeps the ride height of the frame correct when you lower it.
- That belt will last a long time but it is expensive, (about $100.00), so make sure to take that into account if it is broken.
- Look for cracks in the frame where your lift arms pick up the machine. (This is not a deal breaker if you have access to someone that has a welding and fabrication shop)
- Try to turn the handle that is used to adjust the angle of the guards up and down. This is almost always frozen in place. Again, not a deal breaker because you can usually adjust your top link enough to make it work, and honestly it is usually frozen pretty close to where you want it to be anyway.
- Do not engage the pto with the bar up 90 degrees to the ground. You will then learn how to change the pitman arm.
- Speaking of the pitman arm, there is a spring in the end of the pitman at the sickle end. THIS HAS TO BE THERE. This keeps proper tension on the ball that your pitman arm is attatched to. (I usually replace this spring when I go through one of these)
- There are four sizes of drive pulleys that you can find on these mowers. They are 9", 10 1/2", 12", and 14 1/2" diameter. Any of them will spin this mower more than fast enough to cut with. The only thing being, if you have a tractor that you want to run at a little lower rpm, (diesel), you might like the larger pulleys better.
- You don't need all of the crazy arms that this thing came with. They are simply stabilizer arms that are seemingly impossible to hook up. I re-drill the mounting pins, moving them out 3/8 of an inch. This allows you to do away with these arms, hook your category 1 lift arms to it, and also slide a 1/4" thick stabilizer bar on it also. (the kind that hooks up under the axle of your tractor). What this has also done is allowed for a category 2 tractor to be used with it, and when you hook your category 2 tractor to it, there is usually no need to use a stabilizer bar because the pins are close enough together that it does not walk much.
- No, the bracket in picture# 10 (when you are looking at one of my 501 listings) is not all that complicated, but I did come up with that for hooking up the rod that controls the lifting of your bar when you raise your lift arms. Without this hooked up, the end of your bar will just lay on the ground. This bracket can be used on basically any tractor. (much easier than the GEOMETRIC NIGHTMARE that comes with it from the factory.) (I have some of those lying around if you feel that you haven't cussed enough this year, and you want to use the original one instead.)
- As far as the top link goes, take it off and throw it in the scrap pile. It is non-adjustable and you have to adjust the mower itself by loosening three carraige bolts and pivoting the bar. Use your adjustable top link like you would on any other implement. If you want the original one, I have some of those too.
- You need to grab the sickle by the end, while it is hooked to the tractor, and work it front to back. It should not move very much at all. This is not a deal breaker if it does, but the bushings are probably froze up and the bolts will need cut out and replaced.
- You don't have to buy a mower from me, but at least use a little of this information when you go to look at one.
INTERNATIONAL 100 AND 1300
- Picture #7 shows a large piece that pivots on a large pin. This pin will occasionally be bent badly. This is not a deal breaker if the cast piece is not broken. Anything can be fixed but it's nice if this is not bent or broken.
- One thing that I have found with these mowers, is that with the bar laying all of the way over the way that it does, if the previous owner has really bounced this thing down the road, the bar will get quite a bend in it. I have straightened them somewhat before but that is no fun to put it nicely.
- The trip is on the underneath side of these machines. You might check it out if it has been sitting on the ground for a very long time. These are pretty famous for that.
- I have sold several 100's (the model before this one), a couple of the trail types, and several 1300's, and the one thing that I can say that they have in common is the fact that they are EXTREMELY quiet and smooth running. Anyone that has owned one of these will vouch for that.
I am very sorry to have to include this, but after answering these questions at least twice a day, every day, I have decided to go ahead and answer them all in advance, right now. If asked again, I will assume you are just kidding, since I have clearly stated the answer to it below.
- "Will you combined shipping for me if I buy more stuff?" ----- Yes, as stated above in every listing, although you must request a total before paying. If it does not qualify for combined shipping, it will say so.
- "Will you end this auction early?" ----- No, I will never end an auction early unless their is something misrepresented in the listing.
- "What is your Buy It Now price?" ----- I almost never do Buy It Now Auctions. If it doesn't say "Buy It Now" at the top of the listing, (from any seller), there is no Buy It Now price, so please don't ask.
- "What will you take for this thing right now?" ----- I almost never put a reserve on anything, so I will take whatever it brings. (Please refer to rule 2. (very similar question))
- #1 QUESTION OF ALL TIME "What do you want for this thing?" ----- It is almost always an auction style listing, with no reserve. I want absolutely, as much as it will bring, when the time runs out.
Thank you for taking the time to read this. I have been answering these questions every day... and now I'm not. I will also not accept a return on this auction unless it is misrepresented. Everything in this listing has been described exactly.