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Details about  Favourbrook, Jermyn Street, London, formal silk vest, tailored in England, ~42

Favourbrook, Jermyn Street, London, formal silk vest, tailored in England, ~42 See original listing
Item Sold
Item condition:
May 28, 2012 10:55:05 PDT
US $99.95
$5.60 Expedited Shipping | See details
Item location:
Chester Springs, Pennsylvania, United States


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Item specifics

Pre-owned: An item that has been used or worn previously. See the seller’s listing for full details and ... Read moreabout the condition




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Medium Yellow

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Favourbrook, Jermyn Street, London, formal silk waistcoat, tailored in England, ~42

A Favourbrook, Jermyn Street, London, ready-to-wear silk waistcoat, tailored in England. This eight-on-four double-breasted waistcoat is fully lined with two flap pockets, peak lapels, and an adjustment strap. The size is unmarked, please see the measurements.

View active listings from this collection here: Collection of a Gentleman I.
To learn more about the the owner, the collection, and see updates go to the collection's page.

Condition is used; very good. Mild normal wear, no visible damage or stains.

Chest, across under arms laid flat: 21 1/2 inches
Length, back of collar to front hem: 24 1/2 inches


Bespoke Confusion
The word “bespoke” is misused far more often than not on eBay.  To clear up some of the confusion, herewith the types of suit-making processes explained:
The first point of confusion is the term itself. "Bespoke" is the term for a fully individualized suit or other garment used primarily in England and Europe. In America is these garments are more often called "custom." As a further complication, to an older American generation "made-to-measure" means what bespoke/custom means today.

A ready-to-wear (aka RTW) suit is made from cloth cut to a standard pattern in a standard size and customized, if at all, by the buyer's tailor.  

A made-to-measure (aka MTM) suit begins with a client’s basic measurements being taken.  The material chosen by the customer is cut from a bolt of cloth using a standard pattern and then altered to reflect the customer’s measurements as the garment is made.  Usually there are no fittings in the making of a made-to-measure garment.  The finished product is delivered to the customer ready to go and not altered unless there is a problem with the fit. 

A bespoke (aka custom) suit begins with an entire page of measurements being taken by the tailor (35 measurements is one number given).  A specialist called a “cutter” uses these measurements to draft a pattern on a piece of heavy brown paper (sometimes the tailor is also a cutter).  All of the customer's physical idiosyncrasies are reflected in the pattern.  The finished pattern is cut out of the brown paper and then the shell material is cut from that.  The material then goes to the tailor for assembly. 
After the initial visit when measurements are taken and fabrics and options are chosen the bespoke suit customer returns for a minimum of three fittings as the suit evolves. At the first fitting the coat is only a shell held together with large basting stitches. By the second fitting the coat will likely have some padding or interlining in it. The lining will not appear in the coat until the third fitting. At each stage the tailor makes small adjustments, marking up the material with tailor's chalk and calling out notes to a colleague.  These changes are noted on the customer’s pattern and often a new pattern is cut based on what the cutter and tailor learn during the fittings.  

The finished suit is not delivered to (I should say "released to") the customer until the tailor is satisfied with it.  Russell Smith, in his book Men’s Style; The Thinking Man’s Guide to Dress, says that “a good bespoke suit is as comfortable as pajamas.”  This is because it fits you as perfectly as a garment can. Note that the above procedure varies somewhat from tailor to tailor.
Loosely speaking, a made-to-measure suit fits twice as well as a properly altered ready-to-wear suit and is usually of better materials and workmanship. There is no comparing either to a well executed bespoke/custom suit.  A second-hand bespoke suit that has been properly altered for the new owner is the equivalent of a made-to-measure suit but in most cases of much higher quality materials and workmanship.

It is important to note that there are excellent suits made of each of these types.  So long as you are getting the suit that you are paying for you can be satisfied.

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