Details about Elegant 1920 10-pc Tuxedo tails set HART SCHAFFNER & MARX--noted owner--37R/LElegant 1920 10-pc Tuxedo tails set HART SCHAFFNER & MARX--noted owner--37R/L See original listing
Sep 25, 2012 17:37:04 PDT
New York, New York, United States
Pre-owned: An item that has been used or worn previously. See the seller’s listing for full details and ... Read moreabout the condition
Hart Schaffner & Marx
|Country of Manufacture:||
An ENTIRE, TEN-PIECE TAILCOAT SET from 1920--EVERYTHING you need to look 'Gatsby-era fabulous'!!
A 1918 ad for Hart Schaffner & MarxA remarkable survivor of over 90 years, this exquisite, three-piece tailcoat suit was made in 1920 by the famed men's store Hart Schaffner & Marx of Chicago (founded in 1887--and still in business today). The well-dressed man of the early 20th century relied on HS&M to provide them with quality, stylish garments such as this beautiful suit. It is made of a medium weight 100% wool, with the lapels and lining made of black silk. It was owned by a notable Chicago architect named Homer Grant Sailor (see bio, below). Homer was, apparently, a tall and slender fellow, as this suit measures to be about a 37R. It's tough to measure tailcoats, as they don't "meet" at the front. Correctly measured, the size is determined by having the two front edged just meeting--thus, this one measures approximately 38 inches. I would say that, depending on how closely you like the fronts to meet, it could be worn by a man who wears a 38R as well. The cuffs are defined by a silk band in between the two cuff buttons. The ivory-colored waistcoat/vest is similarly on the slim side--but it is a real beauty! It is a beautifully-textured weave of what looks/feels to be silk. It's lined in ivory cotton and has two adjusting belts, one on each side at the waist. The four buttons on the waistcoat look exactly like mother of pearl, but could be synthetic. Written in pen on the inside lining is "HG Sailor, 1920" (it is not visible, of course, from the outside). The trousers have a really sharp, double-lined stripe down the sides (see photos) and have their suspender buttons at the waistline (one button is broken in half, though still usable--and easily replaceable).
Also included in this auction is a beautiful, circa-1920's tuxedo shirt,from the "Manhattan Shirt Company" with attached collar (they call it a "Manhattanized collar"). It's almost a "Barrymore collar," as the shirts with extra-long collar points were called. It has a fabulous, wide-pleated front and the fabric has a pinstripe woven in (white-on-white) and french cuffs. While the condition is excellent, it hasn't been cleaned in years and some of the starch is yellowing. I'm certain that a good soak and bleach will make it white as new. The fabric is almost handkerchief thin and soft and extremely attractive. And a vintage, ivory silk, pre-tied bowtie. It seems to be a very old tie and is somewhat on the small side, though it matches the vest perfectly and goes well with the suit overall. I'm also including 3 shirt studs and two cufflinks, non-vintage and of standard stock. You may choose to "upgrade" to something more worthy of this magnificent suit.
A gentleman of the early 20th century in a similar tailcoat tuxedo
Please check my measurements (below) carefully. This suit was made for a tall, slim gentleman with rather narrow shoulders and a slim chestline and waistline.
Condition: I've searched every inch of this suit and can find not a single moth bite, tear, rip or stain. The lining of the jacket remains solid and looks great. But please note: The lining of the arms was removed at some point, and not professionally done. Hence, at the armpit inside, there is an open seam where the sleeve lining was once attached. It does not affect the wearability or the look in any way. You could keep it "as is" or have a tailor replace the linings at minimal cost. The waistcoat is fairly pristine, with no sweatmarks, stains or other flaws on its front; there are a few scuffs and marks on the back cotton that could likely disappear with cleaning. Overall, it's in incredible shape for a suit that's pushing toward the century mark!
The measurements are:
Chest: Approximately 38"
Overall length (bottom of collar to bottom of tails): 42"
Arm (Outer, from shoulder seam to edge of cuff): 25 1/2" (with about 1 3/4" extra if needed)
Arm (Inner, armpit to cuff): 18"
Lapel: 3 1/2" at widest point
Waist: 30" (pants are designed to be worn in the "high-waisted" style"--there is about 1 3/4" extra fabric to be let out if needed)
Outseam/Length (top to bottom): 42 1/2" (they have been extended to their full length and there is no extra fabric for extension).
Waist: 31" (with adjustable belts at the sides)
Please note: The vest does fit a very slim figure. It could be enlarged by a clever tailor by adding fabric at the sides. It is magnificent and in beautiful condition, except for a few minor marks on the back cotton.
Arms: 34" (with French cuffs for cufflinks)
Adjustable from about 14 1/2" to 17"
Homer Grant Sailor (1887-1968) graduated from the architecture department at Armour Institute in 1911, and entered Louis Sullivan's practice as a draftsman. He subsequently worked at Chatten & Hammond, state architects for Illinois. In 1917 Sailor entered private practice, designing many residences and low-rise commercial buildings concentrated in Chicago's South Side communities--particularly Englewood and Beverly Hills/Morgan Park--and the northern and western Chicago suburbs.
You can buy with assurance with me. Refer to my 100% positive feedback and know that I only sell quality merchandise that I'm proud to be associated with. If you have any questions at all, don't hesitate to contact me and I'll try to help in a timely manner.
I accept PAYPAL ONLY as a form of payment, and payment is required within three days of auction's end.
I LOVE my international customers! I do ship internationally, via USPS International Priority Mail, which is higher than U.S. First Class, but it is quicker delivery and it is easier for both of us to track the shipment while it's en route—the international rates will be calculated and charged actual cost at the end of the auction. Important note: As I have had problems with shipping/customs to certain countries, I don't ship everywhere internationally, so check to be sure that I can ship to your area before bidding. And as I feel that this item is fully, accurately and completely described and shown, there are no refunds.
I will include insurance on this purchase as part of the sale. Signature will be required upon delivery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: I welcome all bidders, however if you have less than 10 feedbacks, I ask that you please contact me via the eBay messaging system before bidding, just to assure me that you are, in fact, a "real bidder". I have, unfortunately, been prey to irresponsible bidders who disappear once they've won the auction. I wish I weren't put in this position, but if you bid on this item with fewer than 10 positive feedbacks without contacting me first, your bids will be cancelled.
THANK YOU, and good luck bidding! Please check my other auctions, too...you may find something you absolutely can’t live without!