Details about Custom Ludwig "Souped Up" Speed King Bass Pedal in Traditional Silver FinishSee original listing
Jan 09, 2014 20:54:53 PST
Denver, Colorado, United States
Seller refurbished: An item that has been restored to working order by the eBay seller or a third party not approved by ... Read moreabout the condition
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Now available on eBay are the “Souped Up” Ludwig Speed Kings by DrumMechanix as seen on YouTube and were also on display at the Vintage Drum Show in Chicago this year where they received rave reviews. This listing is for what has become our most popular finish option. The uprights and floor plate are still powder coated in silver but the foot board and heel piece are first media blasted and then left as natural aluminum with a matt/brushed finish. This gives a very original appearance and the matte finish minimizes the scratching from your shoes. Feel free to contact us if this is not your first choice. While the cost is comparable to the new current production Speed Kings, those will lack the speed and smoothness of these pedals and they will still have the shortcoming of metal to metal pivots, inferior lubrication and, lack the extremely durable powder coating.
We use only vintage Ludwig or WFL Speed King pedals in average or better condition as the cores for our services. First, we completely disassemble, including the removal of the floor plate and heel piece from the footboard. These items and the pedal stand (aka uprights or goal posts) are then bead blasted in a media cabinet removing all the old finish and years of grunge. The remaining parts are then cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.
The foot board, heel piece, floor plate and rocker assembly are then modified and nylon bushings installed at all three pivot points that were previously metal to metal. This is the key to eliminating the previous wear and addressing the infamous “squeak” issue. Floor plates, which are always bent, are straightened and trued.
The pedal stand, foot board, heel piece, floor plate and wing nuts are then powder coated (except as noted above) in your choice of red, black or traditional silver. After powder coating, the spring tension screw threads are chased to insure ease of adjustment. Bearings, cams and all other parts are inspected and any worn or damaged parts are replaced with new or good used parts. The unit is finally reassembled using “Super Lube” Teflon grease. Please note: rather than increase the cost and include a beater that might be changed out because of personal preference, we do not include one with our pedals. New note: we now have available new genuine Ludwig Speed King felt beater for an additional $24.50.
The above service has been performed on the pedal listed here. This listing is for the color combination shown. If you prefer something different, you may choose from all silver, all red, or all black as well as any combination of upright, bearing cap, foot board, heel plate and floor plate that you desire. Examples are shown in the listing photos. Pricing is the same; just contact us and we will be happy to build it to your specifications. For those of you who may already own a Speed King pedal, we offer this same service as well as optional modifications such as fitting the bearing caps with easily removable plugs, foot board reinforcing for you heavy stompers and even broken foot board repair.
The main listing photo is representative of the pedal you will receive but not necessarily the exact item. You will receive one of the same finish and in equal or better condition. If you elect to purchase and would like, you may request in the PayPal notes that a photo of the exact pedal be sent for approval prior to shipment. I am sorry but we are unable to send photos through regular eBay correspondence.
The shipping price quoted is for the contiguous 48 States only and cost to any other location will have to be determined on an individual basis. The "Handling Charge" on International shipments is only to cover my actual cost of insurance and eBay/PayPal fees and does not represent additional profit to me. This item is returnable if done so within 3 days of receipt and in new, unused condition. The shipping charge is not refundable and a 15% return fee may apply.
I am often asked why my pedals are more expensive then ones “refurbished” by others or even the new ones made in Monroe, NC.
Other rebuilders simply use paint stripper and/or a wire brush to remove the old finish. I bead blast in a commercial cabinet which not only removes the old grunge and finish but evens out the surface as well.
I powder coat…others use paint…usually from a rattle can. Looks nice when you get it but throw it in with the rest of your hardware and let it bounce around to a few gigs and then see how it looks. The vintage factory finish was better but still chipped off. Powder coat is really tough stuff. I am able to easily remove the old finish in my blast cabinet but trying to remove the powder coat is nearly impossible. I personally have a pedal that has been used for the last three years, 60-70 gigs a year, and it still looks great.
The finish on the new Monroe pedals is inconsistent and really rough. The black especially flakes off in some spots and won’t come off in others. The foot boards on the vintage pedals were smooth and polished when new… the Monroe ones are very rough and pitted to start with. I offer my services to those who send in their pedals for reworking and I will modify but not refinish the Monroe ones because I can’t get them to my standards.
Now the important stuff… metal against metal wears…big time. All of the vintage pedals I get are worn… some way more than others. Cleaning up and repainting doesn’t make that wear go away and that is what causes the squeak and the slop. Replacing the rear pivot shaft with a new one still doesn’t address the wear at the heel piece, floor plate or other pivots. What you get is a nice looking (for a while) worn out pedal still with all the issues that drummers complain about. My nylon bushing modifications at all three pivots gets rid of all the previous wear and eliminates all metal to metal contact. This is not just a buy the pieces and drop them in process. All the components must be modified to accept these upgrades but this is what it takes to solve the initial build problem with this great pedal design. Don’t need to reinvent the wheel, just put air in the tires.
I clean all parts in an ultrasonic cleaner which gets all the crud out of even the interior of the bearings. Most others use a toothbrush and some sort of solvent.
I use expensive synthetic Super Lube grease… some others use a spray lube which will be fast but not last very long. I now discourage the “easy out” bearing cap option I offer since I believe that these pedals, liberally packed with this lubricant, will not require attention for many, many years.
The uprights rarely match the width of the rockers on these pedals which creates binding. I carefully address this and smooth out the mating surfaces to reduce friction. I also dress and modify the pushrods to restore like new action and eliminate internal binding. Do the other rebuilders do this?
I chase the adjustment screw threads after refinishing to assure smoothness.
I only use vintage Chicago cores for my rebuilds. The new Monroe pedals are a big disappointment in my opinion. Not only is the finish poor as mentioned above but the changes to the cams allows even more mis-alignment of the rocker and uprights. I see huge gaps between these pieces sometime…very sloppy action from day one. The bearings they now use in the new Monroe pedals are junk. I get relatively new ones sent in for modification and the bearing are literally falling apart. The high quality bearings used in the vintage pedals rarely need replacing.
The beater wing screw in the new Monroe pedals was changed from the traditional 1/4 X 28 thread used in the vintage pedals to a metric thread. That would be OK if it only fitted to a close tolerance but it is so sloppy that it won’t hold the beater tight and they go flying at awkward moments. For you Monroe pedal owners, I am able to drill these out, install a heli-coil and a proper wing screw that will fix this problem.
There is even more but that covers the major differences.
My pedals cost more and hopefully now you understand why. I am always happy to answer any questions you may have at my DrumMechanix dot com website.
Jesse aka DrumMechanix