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Details about  Black And Decker PS140 Firestorm 14.4V Volt Battery B&D

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Black And Decker PS140 Firestorm 14.4V Volt Battery B&D
Black-And-Decker-PS140-Firestorm-14-4V-Volt-Battery-B-D
Item Sold
Item condition:
New
Ended:
Jun 06, 2014 17:55:55 PDT
Price:
US $25.99
[
History:
]
Shipping:
$7.99 Expedited Shipping | See details
Item location:
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States

Description

eBay item number:
150590592246
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.
Last updated on  Nov 14, 2013 21:28:20 PST  View all revisions

Item specifics

Condition:
New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is ... Read moreabout the condition
Battery Voltage:

14.4V

Type:

NiCd 14.4 volt

Brand:

Black & Decker

CordlessToolCharger Professional

99.3%
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Check out my “Computer tip of the yearat the very bottom of this page, ESPECIALLY if you do not have very good eyesight.

Bid/Buy with Confidence;

I have a 99% (or better!) feedback rating, comprised of over 23,400 total positive feedback as of 9/17/2013.

You don’t get a rating like that by selling things that don’t work as advertised, or by treating customers with only the utmost respect!!!!!

I have a Bachelors Degree in Business (4-year degree) and an Associates Degree in Electronics Technology (2-year degree), so I am well versed in what I discuss below. I had a 22-year career with GE Healthcare involving electronics before I started this eBay business.


Product Information:

 

Brand new, direct from Black and Decker, PS140 14.4 volt Firestorm or Quantum Pro battery (part number PS140), in sealed blister pack as shown.  Charges on either the 1-hour fast charger (model PS1MVC ), or the slow chargers (models with part numbers of PS180, 418352-02,  ETPCA-144021U1 or  90500929 ).  That charger replaces the old version from B&D which was 418337-02.  That old style had a 17.4 volt DC output from a heavy transformer, but was prone to easily burn out when your battery started to get old.  When batteries get old, some of the cells inside the battery start to short out and THAT overheats the transformer.  I only sell the newer style which has no transformer and WILL NOT burn out if you charge a defective battery.  The chargers shown on this auction are the slow charger and then the 1-hour charger.... Neither is included in this auction... they are just there so you can see if it matches the charger you have.


This battery is used on the POST-style tools from Black and Decker (Firestorm or Quantum Pro models).  I buy these directly from Black and Decker... it is the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) item.


I should be the least expensive seller of this item on eBay or anywhere, if you include shipping and handling!  If not, send me an email with the URL or website and give me your zip code so I can verify the shipping costs.  I am able to beat almost any other offer.  To email me, simply click on the “Ask seller a questionlink located in the upper right hand corner of this auction page.

 

I sell the ENTIRE line of Black and Decker ( B&D ) and Skil chargers, for all voltages (9.6, 12, 13.2, 14.4, 15.6, 16.8, 18 and 24 volts), for both the Slide-on and Post-type (or Stem-type) batteries.  Click on the link called “View sellers other auctions” located in the upper right hand corner of this auction page.  Soon I will be selling Ryobi and Craftsman chargers like this as well.



Weight;

This item weighs 1 pound 10 ounces before it has been put into a shipping container.

How to contact me with questions;

Email me by clicking anywhere on the phrase "Ask a question", which is located near the very bottom of this auction page, near the left side of the page. Just scroll down from the main auction page, or have your browser search for the phrase “Ask a question”.

Shipping (Domestic and International);

I only NORMALLY ship to the 50 United States, but I do make exceptions.  If you live outside of those 50 United States (Puerto Rico, a US Territory, use a military address, etc), please email me for a shipping quote BEFORE YOU PURCHASE THE AUCTIONIf you buy the item and THEN email me, I will not be able to offer you the best rates I have available.  To email me, see the section below entitled “How to contact me with questions. I will most likely start shipping internationally shortly after September 1rst, 2013... so if this message about only shipping to the 50 United States is still here after that time, just ignore it. 

Standard shipping is either via UPS ground, USPS 2-3 day Priority Mail or USPS First Class Mail.  No matter which method is used, you will receive a tracking number emailed to you from that company. It is my choice which one I use, due to price fluctuations.  If there are options available, just choose the one you want when you make your payment (sometimes you will have to click on a “down arrow” to bring up all the shipping options that are available).  If you want a specific method that I use and cannot choose it, then email me before you buy the auction, as it is difficult to change it once you have made the purchase.  To email me, see the section below entitled “How to contact me with questions.   If UPS has to be used, be sure to give me a NON-PO box address, since UPS does not deliver to PO BOXES!

My auctions are shipped every day of the week excluding Saturday and Sunday. Never does it take more than one extra day for me to ship an item.  Ebay allows all sellers to take 24 hours to “process” and order, and then 24 more hours to actually “ship” it. I usually ship within 24 hours, and don't bother waiting the extra 24 hours that most other sellers use.

Picking up an order at my business in Milwaukee, WI;

I have removed the “LOCAL PICKUP” option for my auctions, as too many buyers NOT FROM MILWAUKEE would choose that to get free shipping. If you ARE local here in Milwaukee, there is no shipping fee. But you will have to pay WI State Tax of 5.6%. You should pay the shipping fee, and then immediately contact me to let me know you want to pick it up. I will then refund the entire shipping fee. To email me, see the section below entitled “How to contact me with questions


Overnight service is not available at this time.

Wisconsin shipments;

I must charge STATE sales tax of 5.6% on shipments to Wisconsin locations (or items picked up in Milwaukee). There are no additional shipping or handling fees to pick this item up in Milwaukee, Wisconsin other than the sales tax of 5.6%.

Please give me a CORRECT address and your phone number!!

If the Post Office cannot locate your address, the item will be returned to me. If this happens, I can either refund your auction payment (minus the original shipping fee, the return shipment delivery fee if any, the eBay listing fee, the selling auction fee and the PayPal fees, if any), or I can ship it to another address if you pay another shipping fee. It is also a good idea to be sure your email and physical addresses on your PayPal and eBay accounts are correct and up to date before you pay for your item, to ensure it goes to the right address.

I ***WILL*** combine shipping!

If you would like more than one of an item on an auction, the shipping fee is usually $1.99 more per identical additional item ordered, but not always.  Some auctions, in which the item is heavy or bulky, are not $1.99.  To see what the cost is for each identical item ordered, click on the “Shipping and payments” tab near the top of the auction. Then look under the column “each additional item”. THAT IS FOR IDENTICAL ITEMS ONLY (multiple quantities of an auction item)!

If you order two DIFFERENT items, then the shipping fee is usually the total of 1) the most expensive shipping fee and 2) $1.99 for each additional item. For example, if one item shows a shipping fee of $5.99, and the second item shows $6.99, you will pay $6.99 + $1.99 (total of $8.98). Ebay CANNOT calculate that shipping fee correctly (it is too complicated for their programs), and I will have to send you a refund of the amount that you overpaid. It is best to just OVERPAY, since it can delay your order by over 24 hours if you want to request a correct invoice first. I don't usually read email for 24-48 hours, since I concentrate on getting my orders out within 24 hours instead. Customers seem to appreciate that, and would rather overpay and then get the overpayment sent back to their PayPal account after the order has shipped.

International Shipping:

I do not ship internationally. eBay's category of "BATTERIES AND CHARGERS" is NOT included in their "Global Shipping" program with inexpensive shipping.  Therefore I cannot ship outside the USA and its territories. 

Return Policy;

If you ordered the wrong item (this happens more often than you would imagine!);  

All items may be returned to me within 14 calendar days of receiving the item.  You will have to pay to ship it back to me.  A full refund (minus certain fees) will be given once the item is received back in the same working condition that it was sent to you in.   The fees not refunded are the shipping fee, the PayPal fee and a processing fee of 20% of the auction price (to test the item and restock it).  You also will not receive the refund until you respond to the eBay email that I will have them send to you.  That email will  state that you are returning the item to me for a refund.  That will then allow me to get back the 15% in selling fees that I have paid to eBay for selling the item to you.  

If I shipped the wrong item (very rare… see my feedback!);  you have your choice of the following –

If you are in a hurry to receive the right item, just order another one, and then you can ship me the incorrect item later.  When I receive it, you will get FULL CREDIT (no fees at all) for the initial order (100% of what you paid). I will also reimburse you for your shipping fee to send the item back to me, unless you don't use an economical shipping method. I won't pay overnight FedEx fee, for example. The US Post Office has the most reasonable fees, if you ask them for the cheapest rate!

If you aren’t in a hurry, or you don’t want to purchase a second one, then I have to require that you ship the wrong one to me first… THEN I will ship the correct one, once I get it and test it to be sure it is indeed the same one I sent you and that it is in working condition.  I will email you a prepaid shipping label for US Postal Service, so all you do is put it in your mailbox.  You pay no shipping fee to get it back to me.   I have to do it this way, as otherwise I have found that the buyer just seems to “mysteriously” forget to ship the incorrect part back!

If an item arrives damaged or not working (even more rare, since I test all items before they ship;  See the WARRANTY section below. 


Warranty;

All new items carry a warranty direct from the manufacturer, and it varies from 1 to 2 years.  All manufacturers are different in how they handle warranty situations, so you would need to contact me if you have a new item in need of replacement.  It makes more sense for you to go to your local dealer for a replacement, than to pack the item up and pay to ship it to me for replacement. B&D's phone number is now 800-4DEWALT (800-433-9258) and Skil's number is 877-SKIL999 (877-754-5999).  You would get it much quicker, plus save you from having to pay for return postage.  So that is why I require that you go to the dealer…it saves us both money and time usually.  If you don’t have a dealer near you, then I will handle the warranty for you, but you will need to pay the shipping to get the item to me.  Then I would most likely pay to ship it back to you (unless I determine that the item was burned out (or works correctly)…remember, I test all items immediately before they ship out).

All used items are sold as-is.  No warranty implied whatsoever.  The reason is because many of the items I sell are electrical in nature, and lightning could strike your house (or the item).  I can’t expect to be held responsible for situations like that!  My feedback record should show you that I do NOT sell junk.  I test all items thoroughly.  With my 98.5%+ feedback rating, you should be able to tell that I do not sell defective items.  It never pays to sell someone a defective item… it is more of a hassle than anything, so that is why I test EVERYTHING.  You may have heard the expression, “you spend 95% of your time on 5% of your sales”.  I have found that to be VERY true!


Payment Policy;

YOU NO LONGER NEED TO OPEN OR HAVE A PAYPAL ACCOUNT (this is new as of 11/09).   Just go to PayPal.com and you will see the options you have to choose from.  But opening a PayPal account is NOT required any longer! You must still go to PayPal.com, but won't have to sign up for an account.

I accept PayPal.  Or you can also easily pay via your checking account, Visa, MasterCard, Discover or American Express.    WI residents will be required to pay 5.6% State sales tax.   Free Pick Up in Milwaukee, WI.  Email me by clicking on the link entitled "Ask a question" located near the very bottom of this auction page if you want to make other arrangements.  Please pay within 7 days, per eBay rules.

Feedback Policy;

I will ONLY leave feedback after feedback has been left for me.  Too often sellers get threatened with negative feedback after they have left positive feedback in advance. Sorry about that, but this is what ALL the savvy sellers on eBay now do!


Hints on getting the most out of your NiCd batteries;

HINT ONE! Beware of “FIX YOUR BATTERY” auctions on eBay or the internet!!!

The short story is, it CAN be done, but 1) it is dangerous, 2) it is only temporary, 3) it doesn't work on very old cells that have shorted, and 4) you harm the good cells by making the BAD cells perform temporarily like they are GOOD again. For detailed information on this, see below;

First of all, you need to know that NiCd battery packs are made up of numerous NiCd cells. For example, a 12-volt battery pack has 10 cells inside, and each one produces about 1.2 volts. So 10 cells at 1.2 volt each equals the 12 volts listed on the battery.

I have had numerous buyers tell me horror stories about auctions that they purchased for information on how to fix their defective battery packs. Many sellers on eBay (and other sites) will sell you the information on how to “fix” or “repair” or “resurrect” your old batteries. Don't you think I could do the same, if it worked? I won't mislead my customers that way, or put them into a dangerous situation. You might say “but their feedback seems to be OK”. Guess what... after they start to get a lot of negative feedback (or get sued after a cell explodes), they just close their eBay account, and open a new one (or have a friend open one for them if eBay catches them).

    Yes, there is a trick that you can apply a high voltage to a cell to “shock” it into pretending to be good again, BUT;

    1) THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS! Applying high voltage to a cell/battery could cause the cell/battery to explode! The pasty liquid in the cells quickly heats up and turns into gas, and since the cells are sealed, that gas has no where to go so it expands/explodes the cell.

    2) These “fixes/repairs” are only a very TEMPORARY solution to bad battery performance. The dead cells inside will very quickly revert back to its defective status in a few hours, or sometimes last up to a few days. It will NEVER produce a battery that will preform any where NEAR what a new battery would preform like.

    3) Those processes will NOT work on very old cells that have been in a shorted status for a while. NOTHING will help cells like that.

    4) You only want to apply the high voltage to cells that need it, NOT ALL GOOD AND ALL BAD CELLS! Applying high voltage to a GOOD cell will dramatically shorten all of the lives of the GOOD cells! So if you decide to try one of these risky procedures, do it for each bad cell ONLY! Cells either short themselves out over time, or alternatively they just won't hold the 1.2 volts per cell for a long period of time.



    HINT TWO! Even if you could replace JUST the bad cells inside your battery pack quickly and cheaply, DON'T DO IT!!!

    1) it is a time consuming process to disassemble a NiCd battery pack.

    2) you can't solder new cells without decreasing the life of the cells.

    3) it is difficult to determine which cells are bad.

    You can replace individual NiCd cells inside your battery pack that are bad, BUT YOU CAN’T SOLDER THEM! Heat is NOT a friend to a NiCad cell… it makes their life MUCH shorter if exposed to the high temperatures of a soldering iron. Instead, they must be fusion welded, which produces virtually no heat. Fusion welders are VERY expensive ($2,500)! But even if you had a fusion welder, DO NOT REPLACE INDIVIDUAL CELLS! You would then be combining NEW cells with OLD cells, and then the old cells will just fail next. Cells that are made into a battery pack will usually all start to fail one at a time over a several month period. It is a MUCH better use of your time and money to buy a new battery (and I'm not just saying that since I sell batteries), or have your battery professionally rebuilt. Search the internet, and any of the GOOD, HONEST sites will explain this process of aging NiCd cells in detail.

HINT THREE! Be kind to your NiCad batteries and chargers, and they will last a long time!!!!!!!!

Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

For SLOW chargers (3 to 8 hour type), which are often called “DUMB” chargers;

For Skil, this mean you NEVER leave your battery pack charging on their slow 3-hour charger for more than 5 hours (5 hours is needed to charge a battery fully if it has not been charged in a while)! Those 3-hour chargers just keep charging at full rate as long as a battery in inserted into them. That will decrease your battery life if you leave the battery in it for longer than 5 hours. Put it on one of those 24-hour lamp timers set for 5 hours, and then remember to remove it within 24 hours, or it will get another 5 hours charge! Additional time on the charger just creates HEAT inside the battery, and HEAT is not good for the life of NiCd batteries.
For B&D and Ryobi, this mean you NEVER leave your battery pack charging on their slow 6-8 hour charger for more than 8 hours (8 hours is needed to charge a battery fully if it has not been charged in a while)! Those 6-8 hour chargers just keep charging at full rate as long as a battery in inserted into them. That will decrease your battery life if you leave the battery in it for longer than 8 hours. Put it on one of those 24-hour lamp timers set for 8 hours, and then remember to remove it within 24 hours, or it will get another 8 hours charge! Additional time on the charger just creates HEAT inside the battery, and HEAT is not good for the life of NiCd batteries.

This MAXIMUM charge time is due to the fact that Slow, Dumb Chargers constantly charge your batteries at a set amperage rate (.2 or .25 amps for 6-8 hour charger, .4 amps for 3-4 hour chargers), EVEN WHEN THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED.  After the battery is fully charged, slow chargers continues to send that amperage thru the battery. Because it is fully charged, the excess amperage is turned into HEAT which is not good for the lifetime of NiCd batteries. That will explain why the batteries start to get somewhat hot if left in these SLOW, DUMB chargers for extended time periods. HEAT is not good for the life of NiCd batteries.

NiCd batteries should be stored with only a little charge left in them. DO NOT TOTALLY discharge a NiCd battery, and then store it. Doing that will decrease the battery life significantly.Charge NiCd batteries just before you want to use them. Doing this will increase the battery life significantly.

For FAST chargers (1 to 2 hour type), which are often called “SMART”, “QUICK” or “X-Hour” chargers;

You can leave your battery pack on a SMART charger for longer periods, since it reverts to a trickle charge once fully charged and then just “tops off” the battery until maximum charge is attained. Some manufactures even recommend you leave the battery in one of these chargers until you need it, so that it is always ready to use. That is NOT the case for DUMB, SLOW chargers however.

HINT FOUR!  Many slow chargers are prone to burning out if you attempt to charge a bad battery!!!

This type of charger, also known a "slow charger" is the cheapest type of charger available. If you attempt to charge a defective battery on one the the older models from most manufacturers, the charger will burn OUT, before burning UP!  When some of the cells inside the battery start to short out, it causes the charger to produce more current... more current means more heat, and too much heat burns the charger out. But over the past few years, manufacturers realized this any redesigned the chargers so they will shut down before they burn out. This is not a design flaw, but rather just a way for the companies to produce a low-cost charger for their customers. The fast chargers (sometimes called SMART chargers) are about twice as expensive to produce, so the manufacturers chose to keep the costs down on drill sets that offered this cheaper slow charger.  To avoid burning out that older type of charger, go to my website below which details how to test your battery to avoid burning out a slow charger;

The website is ChargerPro.   (Hint;) The ending to that website is the most COMmon website ending that is on the internet.


Skil's newest slow charger (SC7218) will not burn out, and SOME of B&D's and Craftsman slow chargers won't. Ryobi did not redesign their slow chargers.


COMPUTER TIP OF THE YEAR;

Do you want to make everything on your computer screen appear BIGGER (words, pictures, etc)? Or SMALLER?? Try the below process now... it doesn't work on all programs (such as video players) but it does work on all internet browsers like Internet Explorer, Firefox, Chrome, etc.. And don't worry... if you make things TOO big, I have included the instructions on how to make them smaller again too;

To make things BIGGER, hold down the “CTRL” key on your keyboard and then (while still holding down that <CNTL> key) press the “+” key. On most keyboards, that key also usually has the “=” sign on it. That key is located two keys to the right of the ZERO key, or one key to the left of the “backspace” key, if your keyboard has a row of numbers above the top row of letters. This key is also called the “PLUS” or “EQAUL SIGN” key. Keep hitting that key, and your computer will just keep making everything bigger and bigger on your screen!

To make things SMALLER, hold down the “CTRL” key on your keyboard and then (while still holding down that <CNTL> key) press the “-” key. On most keyboards, that key also usually has the “_” (UNDERSCORE) sign on it. That key is usually one key to the right of the ZERO key, or two keys to the left of the “backspace” key, if your keyboard has a row of numbers above the top row of letters. This key is also called the “MINUS” or “DASH “ or “UNDERSCORE” key. Keep hitting that key, and your computer will just keep making everything smaller and smaller on your screen!

This above tip is a REALLY helpful suggestion for anyone who has poor eyesight and has trouble reading a computer monitor.

Copyright JRL Enterprises, LLC September, 2013



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