*Actual voltages shown on our proprietary test equipment, which is not part of the phase converter.
If you're not sure what size converter you need, please contact me at (714) 710-9094 (Pacific time) or send an email through eBay. If you need something you don't see listed, let me know your requirements. I currently make converters from 2-30 horsepower, and can create a panel and listing to suit your needs.
Please check my feedback as a seller!
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=phase-craft&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller
I've sold over a thousand phase converters on eBay, with a 100% customer satisfaction rating! Notice that I don't just show you a picture of a closed box. I personally design, assemble and test all of my panels, and I want you to see what you're buying. I've purchased some of the closed-box panels to see what people were getting for their money, and believe me when I tell you, there's a reason some people don't want you to see the inside until after you've bought it. In all of my auctions, what you see is what you get, and I show you what kind of voltages you can expect!
I'm a licensed electrical contractor with over forty years of industrial electrical experience. When you buy a converter panel from me, you get a panel personally designed, assembled, and tested by me. You also get unlimited customer support should you need it, although my panels and instructions are so simple to follow that most people never need it. Notice the Euro-style terminal strip with clearly-marked terminals for your idler motor, and your three phase output. Some people slap 4" electrical boxes on the sides of their panel and expect you to wire nut all your connections to pigtails. Some just give you three terminals to double-up your idler motor and output connections, no dedicated terminals for your input connections, and just a screw for your ground connections. Some people only balance the generated phase to one of the other two legs. This saves them money, because they're only including one run capacitor. In other words, they cut corners... I don't. Beware of dealers who show the same generic picture of the inside of their largest "control panel" for all their converters, no matter what size... obviously, they're not all identical inside. Also, you do NOT "need to buy a $150 mag starter" to start this converter!
Here are some things you should know before you purchase any phase converter equipment:
1. A "static" phase converter is not a phase converter at all. All it does is enable a three phase motor to start on single phase. It then runs on single phase current only, which puts a lot of stress on the motor windings and causes the motor to run hotter than it's supposed to. The hotter a motor runs, the sooner it will fail.
2. Because a static "converter" isn't really a converter at all, your motor will only have around 2/3 of the power it's supposed to have.
3. Static "converters" are designed to run only one motor within a narrow power range. A rotary converter can run several motors within a much broader power range. Also, static units can't be used for multiple speed motors, but rotary converters can.
4. "Digital" converters are really variable frequency drives, designed to control the speed of a single motor. They were not designed to be used as phase converters, they don't produce a true sine wave, and they produce harmful harmonic frequencies that are extremely hard on most equipment not specifically designed to be used with a VFD. If you're running more than one piece of equipment, equipment with motors not "inverter rated," anything that interrupts the power between the VFD and your equipment (mag starters, contactors, switches, etc.), equipment that uses regenerative braking (such as "instant reversal"), equipment that contains capacitors across the phases, a VFD will either shut down or damage itself or your equipment. Also, their life expectancy when used as a phase converter is generally only a couple of years.
5. A rotary phase converter panel properly balanced for a 17XX RPM motor will NOT be balanced as well for a 34XX RPM motor, and vice-versa. It will still work, but the voltages will not be as close. Most people don't tell you this. My panels are normally optimized for a 17XX RPM motor, but I can also balance them for a 34XX RPM motor if you prefer.
6. How to select an idler motor: Motors labeled as 220, 230, or 240 volts are all the same thing. Nominal single phase voltage in the USA is usually around 230 volts, but I've seen it as high as 250 volts in some areas. It depends on how close you are to a transformer, and which taps the power company has used on the output of the transformer. Adjusting the transformer's output at 250 volts, for example, will enable them to extend the range of the transformer, but those closest to it will have higher voltages than those farther away. When purchasing a motor to use as your idler, anything labeled 220-240 3-phase will work fine. If the motor says 220/440, it just means that it will run on either voltage, depending on how you connect it. My instructions will tell you how to properly connect your motor for 220 volts.
When purchasing a motor to use for your idler, make sure that it can be run on 220-240 volts. Some motors are designed to run on 440-480 volts only, but this information will be clearly marked on the nameplate.
Also, avoid "C-face" motors, unless they have a base plate to support them on the floor. C-face motors can be recognized by the machined surface on the shaft end, which is designed to bolt the end of the motor directly to another piece of machinery such as a pump. This eliminates the need for belts and pulleys. Because they bolt directly to other machinery, they often don't have a base plate enabling them to rest directly on the floor. Electrically, a C-face motor is as good as any other, as long as you have a way to support it. If you see a motor listed on eBay and aren't sure if it will work for your idler motor, contact me and I'll evaluate the listing for you.
My converter panels give you everything you need to make a true rotary phase converter, except for the idler motor, which you can probably obtain locally and save on shipping charges. I even give you information on ways to find a used or surplus three phase motor cheap. A good used motor will typically run for decades, because it has no mechanical load attached to it... it's merely spinning, and acting as a motor-generator to produce true three phase power.
Here's how it all works:
You run a single phase 220 volt circuit from your panel to terminals 1 and 2 on the converter panel. You connect a three phase motor to terminals 3, 4, and 5. You connect your three phase machinery to terminals 6, 7, and 8. You include a ground wire in all three runs, and connect them to the included ground lug. That's it... you're done. My panel will start the three phase idler motor, and cause it to generate power to create the three phases. It will also balance the power to within a few volts of line voltage on all three phases. Your equipment will receive true three phase power, which will make it (and you) very happy!
NOTE: If you're not at all familiar with proper electrical wiring methods and local code requirements, I recommend that you consult a licensed electrician to make sure your wiring is done properly.
FOR TECHNICAL QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS, I'M HERE TO HELP! OFFICE: (714) 710-9094 CELL: (714) 768-9915
EMAIL: THROUGH EBAY
U3BO2UopGfog~~60_39.JPG)
)
