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1850's Victorian Gown "a la disposition" with Original Pagoda Sleeves & Pelerine

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1850s-Victorian-Gown-a-la-disposition-with-Original-Pagoda-Sleeves-Pelerine
Item Sold
Item condition:
--
Ended:
Aug 07, 2012 17:17:07 PDT
Winning bid:
US $729.89
24 bids ]
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Item location:
Sacramento, California, United States

Description

Item number:
140814484409
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.

Item specifics

Era: Pre-1901 (Victorian & Older) Shade: Gold, white
Vintage Type: True Vintage Material: Silk
Size: 2XS Type: Dresses
Color: Browns
 This beautiful gown dates from the 1850's.  This particular dress has two flounces hand stitched to the silk underskirt.  You will also see three flounces on skirts.  The type of fabric used is woven "a la disposition".  It means that fabric was woven to make exactly this type of dress.  One purchased the plain silk taffeta for the bodice and sleeves.  Then you purchased as many panels as you wished to make the flounces on the skirt.  There was also separate fabric woven in ribbon-like strips for trim.  This dress is not only unusual because of the rarity of the fabric but also that it still has the original detachable pagoda sleeves and pelerine.  Without them the dress is a ballgown; with them it would have been appropriate for day, with a chemisette and undersleves.  The short sleeve has three puffs, plain, ribbon, and then plain again.  The bodice has applied trim of pleated silk ribbon and lace.  The pagoda sleeves were basted on.  They are both present.  The back fastens with hooks and eyes.  The skirt is cartridge pleated all the way around.  The bodice is lined with polished cotton.  It has one bone at the center and the neckline above the bust is padded.  The measurements are as follows:  Bust 29", Waist 22", Hip Free, Circumference of skirt 112", distance from waist to hem is 44", length of flounces is 19.5".  The pelerine measures front 10", back length 13", shoulder 6".  Pagoda sleeve measures 9.5" at the shortest and 21" at the longest.  The width of the ribbon trim is 1.5".  The dress is obviously not pristine.  There are stains that might be water stains on the front and back.  I have tried to take pictures of them.  I won't guarantee that there won't be more.  However the most distressing flaws are around the bottom.  The outside flounces have a dark ring around most but not all of the bottom.  There are a few splits where it has shattered.  The inside skirt under the flounce has the most damage.  It has dark stains and is shattering badly.  My hope is that someone can stabilize the underskirt and the few splits in the bottom flounce. 
I will add an interesting note.  I always assumed that flounces woven a la disposition were woven with the pattern along the selvage.  This is not the case with this dress.  The flounces were woven horizontally, not along the selvage.  The selvages run up and down the flounce.  That means that you actually purchased as many sections as you needed and matched them at the selvages.  The width of these sections is 21", a common width for silk at the time.
Please ask any questions before bidding.  I will not accept a return unless I have grossly misrepresented the garment.  If you want additional pictures I will try to take them.  Thank you so much for looking.  Drool worthy, no?

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