AFTER thanksgiving to God, and praise of Mohammed, the Author
details his reasons for publishing the account of his Travels.
The Author gives an account of his origin, and of his family. His father
becomes a favourite of Abul Munsur Khan Sufder Jung, Nabob of Oude—is
appointed deputy to the Nabob's nephew. The Nabob dies—is succeeded by his
son Shujaa ad Dowleh, who becomes jealous of his cousin, and arrests and
puts him to death—suspicious of the adherents of the deceased—he attempts
to seize the author's father, who flies to Bengal. The author's journey to
join his father at Moorshedabad. His father dies. The Nabob Shujaa ad
Dowleh dies—is succeeded by his son Assuf ad Dowleh, whose minister
invites the author to return to Lucknow, and bestows on him the
appointment of Aumildar, or collector of the revenues. The minister
dies—his successor inimical to the author, who is superseded, and retires
to Lucknow—appointed an assistant to Colonel Hannay, collector of
Gorruckporeis removed from his office, and returns to Lucknow.
Insurrections in Oude. The author consulted by the English on the state of
affairs—is employed to reduce Rajah Bulbudder Sing—surprizes the Rajah's
camp. Enmity of the minister, Hyder Beg Khan. The author proceeds to
Calcutta—is well received by the Governor-General—settles in Calcutta.
Lord Cornwallis recommends the author to the British Resident, and to the
Nabob, at Lucknow. Lord Cornwallis leaves India. The Nabob quarrels with
the Resident, and dismisses the author, who returns to Calcutta—being
unhappy, is invited to make a voyage to Europe—agrees—takes his
passage—the ship is burnt—he engages another vessel.
The Author leaves Calcutta—arrives at Kedjeree— embarks on board a vessel
bound to Denmark. Description of the ship—character of the captain and
officers. The ship sails to the mouth of the river. Embargo—disagreeable
state of suspense. An English vessel burned while at anchor—plundered by
the Danish captain. The French frigate La Forte captured by an English
frigate, both of which pass up the river. The embargo taken off. The
author proceeds on his voyage.
Commencement of the voyage. The captain finds it requisite to go to the
Nicobar Islands for water. Phaenomena. Description of the Nicobar Islands
— their produce, inhabitants, &c. Several of the Lascars, or Indian
sailors, desert the ship, and conceal themselves in the woods —brought
back by the natives — infamous conduct of the captain on-this occasion.
The ship leaves the islands. Sun vertical. Calms. Polar star. Equinoctial
line. Curious ceremony on passing the line. Shoal of flying fish. Trade
winds. The ship passes the longitudes of the islands of Mauritius and
Madagascar. Gale of wind. Sufferings of the author. Discover the coast of
Africa. Whales approach the vessel. See the Table Mountain of the Cape of
Good Hope. The captain resolves to go into the port. The ship carrried to
the southward by the current. Dreadful storm. The author's reflections.
The vessel loses her reckoning—is in great distress—again discovers the
land—anchors in False Bay.
The Author disembarks, and hires lodgings at False Bay—description of his
landlord and family—is hospitably received by the Commandant of the
British troops—marked attention of the officers of the Royal navy—improper
conduct of his landlord—he determines on proceeding to Cape Town —account
of his journey. Description of the town, and remarks Occasioned thereby.
Character of the Dutch inhabitants, and their conduct to slaves.
Description of the climate, and of the country in the vicinity of the
Cape; also of the fruits, vegetables, animals, and other productions.
People of various nations settled at the Cape. The author meets with
several Mohammedans. Panegyric on General Dundas and the British officers.
The author sells his slave and some other property, in order to support
his expenses. The Danish ship brought from False Bay to Table Bay—her
captain prosecuted for plundering the vessel in the river Ganges, and his
ship thereby prevented from proceeding on her voyage. The other passengers
prosecute the captain, and recover half the sum they had paid. The author
takes his passage for England.
The Author quits the Cape, and embarks on board the Britannia. Description
of the ship, and character of the captain. Discover St. Helena—anchor in
the port—description of the island, town, and fortifications—hospitable
and friendly conduct of the Governor. Leave St. Helena. Pass the Island of
Ascension—some account thereof. Recross the equinoctial line. Anecdote
related by the captain. Fall in with an American, and an Hamburgh vessel.
Again see the polar star—pass a fleet of outward-bound Indiamen—pass the
Canaries, and the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea. Arrive at the mouth
of the English Channel—contrary wind—obliged to bear away for the Irish or
St. George's Channel. Fall in with an overset vessel. Cold and
disagreeable weather. The captain determines to enter the Cove of Cork.
The ship arrives opposite the town of Cove, and casts anchor. Description
of the bay. The Author lands at the " town, and is hospitably
treated'—visits the city of Cork, which he describes—returns to the ship,
and determines on visiting Lord Cornwallis at Dublin—quits the ship, and
sets out for Cork, where he visits Captain B—r. Description of that
gentleman's house and family. The author sets out for Dublin—account of
The Author arrives at Dublin, and hires lodgings. Description of the city,
and of the interior of the houses. Lighting of the streets at night.
Squares. Infatuation of Europeans respecting Statues. Account of Phoenix
Park—the Light-house and Pier— the river, and canals. Description of the
College—Parliament House—Custom House, and Exchange—Churches—Barracks, and
Hospitals. The author visits the Theatre—his account of an Harlequin
entertainment, and other public exhibitions.
Character of the Irish. Caricatures. Troublesome curiosity of the common
people. Heavy fall of snow. Severe cold. Climate of Ireland—advantages
thereof. Skating. Account of the author's particular friends or patrons.
Mode of living of the Irish. The author leaves Dublin—his passage to
England—he lands at Holyhead. Description of Wales, and of the city of
Chester. The author arrives in London.
The Author hires lodgings in London. Interview with the President of the
Board of Controul. Is introduced at Court—Attention of the Princes, and of
the Nobility. Public amusements. The author's original view in coming to
England—disappointment—compensated, by the kindness of his friends. He
visits Windsor—arrives at Oxford — account of that University— proceeds to
Blenheim -- description of the park and house — visits Colonel C—x. Mode
of sporting in England. The author proceeds to the house of Mr. H—gs;
returns to London. Ode to London.
Character of the Author's friends in London. His mode of passing the time.
He visits Greenwich, and other places in the vicinity of the metropolis.
Account of the Freemasons. British Museum. The Irish Giant.
Chimney-Sweepers. King's Library. Pictures. Hindoostany Ladies. Panegyric
on Mr. S--n, one of his pupils.
General description of England. Soil. Animals. Division of Land—state of
cultivation. Roads. Description of London—Squares — Coffee-houses and
Taverns—Clubs—Literary and other Societies—Opera, and Play-houses—Orrery—
Masquerades — Routs — Public Buildings—Charities—Bank of England—Royal
Of the state of the Arts and Sciences in England. Utility of the Art of
Printing. Newspapers. Facility of travelling. Price of Provisions.
Hot-houses. Excellence of the British Navy. The Author gives an account of
the War with Denmark. He visits Woolwich—Description of the Docks and
Iron-Foundery. Account of the British Army. Grand Review at Windsor. Tower
The science of Mechanics much esteemed in England—various uses to which it
is applied—Mills—Founderies —Steam Engines—Water-works, &c. Account of the
modes of Engraving. Manufactories. Staple commodities of England. Public
Illuminations ou the Proclamation of Peace. Character of the London
Mode in which the English spend their time. Of the length of the days and
nights in England. Mode of living of the English. Division of employment
between the Sexes. Regulations respecting Women. Liberty of the Common
People. Anecdotes of the P—e of W—s, and G r H--s. English Servants.
Liberty of the higher classes. Duels. Education of Children.
Analysis of the British Government. Authority of the Sovereign—Eulogium on
his present Majesty—Condescending and liberal conduct of his Majesty to
the Author: Description of the Queen's Drawing-room. Political situation
of the Heir Apparent—Character of the Prince. Description of Carleton
House. Duties of the Ministers of State—of the Chancellor of the
Exchequer—of the Secretary for the Foreign Department—of the Secretaries
for the Home and War Departments—of the First Lord of the Admiralty—Author
introduced to Lord Sp—r. Of the Master General of the Ordnance—of the
President of the Board of Controul—of the Lord Chancellor—of the
Archbishop of Canterbury.
Description of the East-India Company. Of the Board of Controul. Of the
Lord Mayor of London—the nature ' and extent of his
jurisdiction—Procession to Westminster and Guild Hall. The Author is
invited to the Lord Mayor's Feast account thereof. Anecdote of Miss C—be.
Description of the Courts of Law in London—of English Juries—of the Judges
and Lawyers. The Author prosecuted by a tailor—his reflections and
determination thereon—Censures the establishment of English Courts of
Judicature in India—Anecdote of a witness. Ambiguity of the English
Law—Remedy proposed by the author.
Of the Finances of England. Mode of assessing the Taxes. Government Loans.
National Debt. Effects of the heavy Taxes, on the Poor, the Rich, and the
Middling Classes of the People. Plan proposed by the Author for the
liquidation of the National Debt.
The Author apologizes for the censure he is obliged to pass on the English
Character. He accuses the Common People of want of religion and honesty,
and the Nation at large of a blind confidence in their good fortune, also
of cupidity. A desire of ease one of their prevailing defects. Picture of
a London Gentleman. The English irritable, bad economists of their time,
and luxurious. The advantages of Simplicity, exemplified in the histories
of the Arabs and Tartars. The English vain of their acquirements in
Learned or Foreign Languages—Governed by self- interest, licentious,
extravagant. Au instance of meanness and extravagance united—Bad
consequences of these vices. The English too strongly prejudiced in favour
of their own customs. The Author's mode of defending the Mohammedan
customs. The English blind to their own imperfections.
The Author describes the Virtues of the English,-under the following heads
: —Honourable—Respectful to their superiors—Obedient to the laws—Desirous
of doing good —Followers of fashion—Sincere in their dispositions—Plain in
their manners, and hospitable. Peculiar ideas of the English of the
meaning of Perfection. The author censures some of the customs of London.
Fires—Description of the fire-engines—Hardship of the owner of the
property burned, being obliged to pay for the use of the engines. The
author dislikes English beds. He censures the custom of retaining handsome
footmen, to wait on Ladies.
Of the Geography of Europe—its subdivisions into Kingdoms. Nature of the
different Governments in Europe—Commencement of the French Revolution -
Rise of Bonaparte—Confederated Armies invade France—History of
Hanover—Confederates defeated—English retire from Toulon. Success of
Bonaparte in Italy and Switzerland—sent to conquer Egypt. Account of the
Naval Engagements which occurred in the course of the war—English Fleet
sent in pursuit of Bonaparte.—Description of the Battle of Aboukir.
Conquests of the English by land, during the late war. Origin of the war
with Tippoo Sultan—Reflections of the Author on the events of the contest.
Invasion of Egypt by Bonaparte—Siege of Acre. Second Confederacy against
France. Bonaparte invited to return—leaves Egypt, and arrives in
France—dissolves the National Assembly—defeats the Confederates. A Turkish
army, sent to expel the French from Egypt, defeated—The English send an
army, under Sir Ralph Abercromby, to their assistance, which lands at
Aboukir—Battle between the French and English—Indian army land at Cosseir—The
Turks advance to Cairo—joined by part of the English army—Cairo
capitulates—Alexandria capitulates. Bonaparte threatens to invade England—
Lord Nelson destroys some of the French boats. Peace concluded.
The Author resolves to return to India—His purposed route—He quits
London—Disgusted with Dover—Embarks for France—Account of his journey to
Paris—Description of that city—Its Public Buildings—Hot and Cold
Baths—Mode of washing clothes—Coffee-housesFrench
cookery—Houses—Lodging-houses—Lighting of the streets at
night—Pavement—Description of the Boulevards—Palais Royal—Manufacture of
China—Tuileries —Louvre—Public Gardens—Phantasmagoria—Public
Library—Opera, and Play-houses.
Character of the French. Anecdote of a Barber—Of the hotel at
Marseilles—Author's reflections. Observations on the appearance and dress
of the French Ladies. He meets with several of his English
acquaintances—Is displeased at his reception by Mr. M—y, the British
Envoy. Anecdote of the people of Mazanderan. Author visited by a
sharper—He forms an acquaintance with some of the French Literati—Is
invited to Court.
The Author sets out for Lyons—Account of his journey. Description of the
city of Lyons—Curious mode of building — Dying manufactory. The author
visits the house wherein the late General Martin was born. He takes his
passage on board a boat for Avignon—Account of his voyage—Description of
Le Pont de St. Esprit. He cultivates an acquaintance with M. Barnou —
Arrives at Avignon— Sets out in a Diligence for Maıseilles—Description of
that city — Hospitably entertained by the Governor and his family—He forms
an acquaintance with several American gentlemen—Engages a passage to
The Author embarks for Genoa. Description of the Mediterranean Sea. He
arrives at Genoa — is hospitably entertained by the American Consul — His
description of the city—Admiration of Italian Music— Courtezans—Cicisbeos.
The author embarks for Leghorn, with an intention of visiting Rome. He
arrives at Leghorn—Description of that city—Scarcity of water—Distress of
the author, who is nearly assassinated—Account of the inhabitants. He
cultivates an acquaintance with some Armenians. The Victorieux ship of war
arrives at Leghorn, with a tender—The British Consul promises the author a
passage in the latter—The Master refuses to take him—He applies to the
Captain of the Victorieux, who consents to receive him on board. He quits
Polite conduct of Captain R—d to the Author. Account of the voyage to
Malta—Description of the island—Characters of the Governor, Admiral,
Commander-in-chief, and Commissary-general. The author lands, and is
hospitably entertained by all the public officers—His reflections on this
subject—He discovers a great affinity between the Maltese and Arabic
languages. Account of the invasion of Malta by the Turks—Climate of that
island. The author re-embarks, on board the Victorieux, for Smyrna. Tire
ship puts into the port of Miletus—Short
description of that place—Proceed on their voyage—'pass by Athens — arrive
at Smyrna.' The author well received by the Consul—visits Osman Aga. The
ship quits Smyrna—arrives at the Hellespont—Description of the Sea of
Marmora—arrives at the Dardanelles.
The Author arrives at Constantinople—is graciously received by the British
Ambassador. Description of Constantinople—Of the climate— Population —
Coffee-houses —Inns—Hot Baths—Useful institutions--Dress of the
Turks—their indolence—great smokers—Anecdote of Nadir Shah. Turkish
luxury, and its effects. Account of the Post-office—Turkish mode of
living—Houses of Constantinople—Frequent
fires—Furniture—Mosques—Description of St. Sophia—Bazars—Derveishes.
Character of the Turks—Limited power of the Emperor—Authority of the
Viziers, and of the Cazies—Freedom of the Women—Female Slaves—Hard fate of
the Princesses. The Author introduced to the Viziers—presented to the
Emperor—not visited by any of the Nobility—forms an acquaintance with the
East-India Company's Agent, and the Interpreter to the 'English Embassy,
also with the Interpreter to the German Embassy — obtains a second
audience of the Emperor. Passports. A public Mehmander, or Conductor,
appointed to attend the author to Bagdad—his character, and an account of
The Author leaves Constantinople. Account of his journey. History of the
city of Amasia—Gold and Silver Mines in its neighbourhood. Account of
Sewas, or Sebaste. Anec- ' dotes of the inhabitants of Hussen Buddery.
Occurrences at Malatia. Description of the Euphrates. Account of a
salt-water lake. Description of Diarbekir — Author hospitably entertained
by the Governor. Description of Mardine — Panegyric , on the Governor.
Account of Nisibes.
The Caravan enters the Kurd country, on the borders of the Desert.
Description of the Desert. Caravan detained. Account of the Tribe of
Senjar, a race of mountaineer. Journey over the Desert. Author arrives at
Mousul—Panegyric on the Arabian horses—Courteously received by Mohammed
Pasha—Visits the tomb of St. George of England. Description of Mousul and
its inhabitants. Author complains against his conductor — He quits
Mousulis hospitably entertained by some Christian Arabs. Description of
Kirkoot and Karutapa. The Author arrives at Bagdad. Computation of the
distance from Constantinople to Bagdad.
Description of the city of Bagdad—inferior to the cities of India. The
Author's object in taking this route. Account of the Mausoleum of Kazemine—its
peculiar privileges—Oppressive conduct of the Turks—Description of the
Tombs of Mohy Addeen and Abdal Cader. The author sets out for Samerah—Account
of his journey. Anecdote Af the Khalif Moatisim. Description of the
Mausoleum of Samerah. Author returns to Bagdad.
The Author sets out on a pilgrimage to Kerbela and Nejif— Hospitably
entertained at the house of a Syed, and by the Governor of Kerbela—meets
with his Aunt. Description of the Mausoleum, and of the town of Kerbela—Account
of its capture by the Vahabies—Plundered a second time by the Arabs.
History of the Vahabies—Letter of their Chief to the King of Persia.
The Author continues his pilgrimage to Nejif. Account of the canals of
Husseiny and Assuffy. Panegyric on the late Nabob Assuf ad Dowleh.
Description of the cities of Huila and Nejif. Account of the Mausoleum of
Aly. Anecdote of an Arab. The author devotes his mind to religious
contemplation—Returns to Bagdad. Reasons why he first went to live with
the British Consul—bad consequences thereof. Author disgusted with Mr. J—s's
mode of living. Manner of travelling in Irac. Author embarks on the
The Author quits Bagdad—arrives at Sook al Shyukh description of that
village. The author taken ill of a fever—arrives at Mâkul, or Markile, the
English factory at Bussora—obliged to proceed to the city: Character of
the inhabitants of Bussora—Description of that city—Character of the
Governor. Author invited to the house of Mr. M—y : His opinion of that
gentleman. The author disappointed of a passage to Bombay, and detained at
Bussôra. Extraordinary occurrence in that city-Conduct of Mr. My on this
occasion. The author regrets his long detention at Bussora. He embarks on
board the grab Shannon.
The Author sails from Bussora—account of his voyage, and description of
the Persian Gulf—enters the Sea of Oman and the Indian Ocean—arrives at
Bombay. Hospitably received by the Governor. Description of Bombay.
Account of the Parsees, and other native inhabitants. Description of the
Fort. Account of the Mohammedan inhabitants. Marked attention of the
Governor to the author, who procures him a passage on board the Bombay
frigate. The author embarks for Bengal. The ship arrives in Balasore
roads—anchors in the Ganges. Author proceeds to Calcutta.
APPENDIX (B.) Author's
Vindication of the Liberties of the Asiatic Women