Do-It-Yourself Solar Dealer and Manufacturer for FIVE YEARS!
Our Solar DIY Education Kits have been used by leading institutes in the U.S.!
- SAVE TIME from soldering these tabbed cells than the un-tabbed cells!
- SORTED cells! -- Our production team has sorted these cells and taken out those chipped/broken ones.
- SHRINK WRAPPED Professionally! -- ALL our solar cells are shrink-wrapped professionally to prevent oxidation!
- INSTRUCTION MANUAL! --- We will include instruction manual!
We are NOT like some small sellers who simply take out a bunch from a box and just re-sell and send them to customers without sorting them! You may get a lot of chipped and broken ones from those small sellers who do not have the resources/capability to do any sorting, testing, not to say manufacturering.
Better yet, our mono and multi crystalline 6x6 solar cells are individually flash tested with solar cells tester and binned by power class. These 3x6 short tabbed solar cells are definitely a good start for DIY solar. We have extensive DIY solar products, knowledge, resources and capability to offer 100% satisfaction guaranteed!
Please visit our eBay store for more of our solar products.
~Now On Auction for you to get the BEST price!~
The following is a little more details regarding this kit: (solar cells, tabbing wires, bus wires, flux pen and diode)
This set of new 1KW 3"x6" short tabbed solar cells are string ribbon multi crystalline cells made by an all American solar company that has the smallest carbon foot print - we are able to reduce the silicon waste process by using state of the art technology in manufacturing our solar cells.
Solar Panel Do It Youself Kit Benefits:
- Classic & traditional solid blue front side string ribbon cells
- Exclusively made in Germany's string ribbon cell factory.
- In terms of output they are similar to those Devens cells (multicrystalline look, marked by .5v3.6a)
- In terms of volume production please see 'Cell Specifications' below
- Original factory standard cell size, not other sizes cut by using homemade tools which damage the cells during the cutting process
- Never been used or are not recycled from badly made panels like some factory installed tabbed cells
The following is a little more details regarding this kit: (solar cells, tabbing wires, bus wires, and flux)
I: Cells: 550 pcs plus some bonus cells
The standard cell secifications as follows per our state of the art solar testing equipment:
- Average Power (Watts): 1.75 Wp
- Average Current (Amps): 3.5 Imax
- Average Voltage (Volts): 0.5 Vmax
- Thickness 200 ìm = 0.2 mm
- Exact dimension: 3 1/4 inches x 6 inches, or 80 mm by 150 mm
- Weight: Just above 6 grams, or 0.2 oz.
III: Bus wires: $40 value -225 feet of bus wires. Use them to connect them between the series and connect the tabbing wires ends to the junction box at the back of the panel.
II: Tabbing wires: $15 value - 55 feet of tabbing wires to connect the solar cells. Cut them into 6 inch sections to solder onto the bus bars on the cells.
IV: Flux: $7-$9 value - an easy-to-use flux pen, MADE IN U.S.A., that dispenses flux onto the bus bar or your tabbing wires without leaving a mess. It's used to aid soldering and bonding of the wires to the cells. A must have item.
V: Diodes: $15.00 value - 10 diodes rated at 15 amp. BEST diode on the market made by No.1 diodes manufacturer. Schottky style diodes.
Please note: these 3x6 string ribbon type solar cells have been tabbed, but tabs have been clipped, (click on the picture to see an enlarged picture for details) leaving the tabs on the bus bars but both remaining tabs still have a short end that still protrudes out beyond the edge fo the cell. So there are two ways you can use these cells:
A) Simply apply flux on the end of the tabbing wires where they are cut off, and solder another section (3 inches long) of the tabbing wires to lengthen it. Typically you don't need to add extra solder becasue the tabbing wires that we provide are already coated with tin solder. So, flux and solder.
B) Use a soldering iron to heat up the wires and gently remove the clipped tabbing wires, and then apply flux and solder another full 6 inch long tabbing wire. These cells are really very good and very wholesome cells. Some tiny chips are possible, but they are very rare in this category. Because the tabs have been clipped, we rate them A-.This set of new 3"x6" solar cells are string ribbon multi crystalline cells made by a reputable and major world class solar manufacturer, and the cells have the smallest carbon foot print - they waste the least silicon in making these cells. The cells are the original factory standard cell size. The cells have never been used on panels, but they have tabs being soldered on the front side. We are fairly confident that you will like these cells. Our sorting team tries to do as good as a job possible to categorize the cells. We stand by our products. If you think the solar cells don't meet your expectations, send them back within 7 days for a guaranteed refund or replacement. From the enormous number of cells that we shipped this past couple of months, returns have been essentially negligible.
How to make sense of the above numbers:
The basic and very important formula you need to know to make sense of solar cells is this:
Power (P) = Current (I) Multiply by Voltage (V), or P=I*V
Power's unit of measure is watt,
Current's unit of measure is amp,
Voltage's unit of measure is volt.
So in our solar cell's specific example, if each solar cell is rated at 1.75 watts on average, and the voltage is 0.5, you do a little algebraic math, then to get the amps (I), since P=I*V, so I = P / V , therefore I (amps) = 1.75 watts divided by 0.5 volts = 3.5 amps.
It's important to understand the concepts of series connection and parallel connection when stringing these solar cells together to make a solar panel. Series connection of the cells increases voltage but not amperage; parallel connection of the cells increases amperage but not voltage. Series connection is when you connect the positive terminal of a cell with the negative terminal of the next cell. Parallel connection is when you connect the positive terminals of all cells in the set of cells with a tabbing wire and all the negative terminals of all cell in the same set. You can use a combination of series and parallel connections to get the right voltage and amperage for your solar panel.
The cell specifications above were given to us by the manufacturer as averages. Variations are possible. To make a 18 volts panel, for example, you connect 36 cells in series (36 cells times 0.5 volt each = 18 volts). And 36 * 1.75 (each cell in theory averages 1.75 watt) watt = 63 watts. The amps you will be getting is 63 watts divided by 18 volts = 3.5 amps.
Solar cells basics:
The front of the cells (blue side, aka Sunny side) has two thick white lines, called bus bars. They are the negative terminals of the cell. The back side, where the 6 square dots are, are positive terminals. Connect the tabbing wires from the bus bar of the first cell on one side to the three dots of on the back side of the next cell. That way you have a series connection. Repeat the process on the other side of the cells. In panel making you should connect all the tabbing wires on the front for all the cells first, then flip the cells over to solder the back side in a second step. Some solar cells such as SunPower cells have both positive and negative terminals at the back of the cells, but we don't have to worry about them. Most cells are negative on the front and positive on the back.
The white color bus bars (two thick lines) on front and the contact points on the back are made out of silver, and you should keep them intact. Apply flux on your them and the wires should bond. Do not scrape them off like you saw on some Youtube videos. They did that perhaps becaues the contacts are very very old and have heavy oxidation. The most you should do is to use a pencil eraser and rub on the contacts. But without cells, even this is not necessary. Just make sure that the contacts are clean, and always remember to apply some flux first before using your iron to solder the wires on the cells. Our cells are already coated with tin solder, so you don't need extra solder.
Make sure that you test the cells under strong sun light with the front of the cell facing the sun, at the same time connect your meters to the right terminals. If you are inside the building, make sure you shine your sun simulating lamps onto the front of the cell while testing. Place the solar cells on a metal plate, ideally made from copper. With a warm light (ie halogen lights) shining on the cell, put your positive lead from your multimeter on the plate, and the negative lead of your multimeter on the bus bar. Your multimeter will be set to typically check amps or voltage at one time.
For those who are new to solar panel making or if you don't have an engineering background, here is our recommendation:
1) Make small panels first so you gain experience.
2) In most situations, make either 36 or 72 cell panels, and connect them in series. 36 cells give you 17.5 or around 18 volts or so. And 72 cells doubles that. These panels are very useful, and you will find a lot of matching products that will want to buy! For example, you almost always want to use a charge controller if you make your panels to charge batteries. Charge controllers usually come in 12 or 24 volt settings, which match your panels' 18 and 36 volts very nicely. Yes, your panel voltage should be 1.5 times the voltage of the battery you intend to charge. Connect more panels together if you want to tie to the grid, in which case, always use an inverter. However, we always recommend that the panels that you make for yourself be used in off-grid applications, such as charging your batteries to be used in RV, remote cabin, or marine settings. If you intend to connect to the grid, it is wise to buy the professionally made, UL certified panels.
3) For a lot higher voltage panels and configurations and connecting multiple panels to get high voltage, consult a professional. Just don't fry yourself.
If you want to become a serious panel maker, buy a good soldering iron whose temperature can be adjusted. Don't get a cheap iron. It's one of the most important tools you need to have. If you can't buy an adjustable solder iron, get one that's rated at 90 watts. Also when you solder, all you need to do is to apply flux on the bus bars and the backside contacts before soldering. Do NOT scrape off the whitish substance on the bus bar or the backside square contacts. Those are made of silver and must be kept intact. Just apply flux and solder the tabbing wires. The wires are already coated with tin solder so you don't need to use extra solder AT ALL. Use a smooth and continuous motion to solder the wires onto the bus bars of the cells.