**YOU CAN SUCCESSFULLY REMOVE THE WARRANTY TAB AND REPLACE IT BY USING A HAIRDRYER, AT THE END OF THIS GUIDE I WILL TELL YOU HOW, IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST TIME OPENING YOUR 360 PLEASE GO TO THE BOTTOM OF THE GUIDE FIRST AND SEE HOW TO REMOVE AND REAPPLY YOUR WARRANTY STICKER IF THIS FIX DOESNT HELP YOU, YOU STILL HAVE THE OPTION OF RETURNING IT TO MICROSOFT (IF YOU DIDNT HAVE TO DRILL HOLES IN YOUR METAL CASING), REMOVING THIS STICKER DAMAGING IT OR FAILURE TO REPLACE THIS STICKER MEANS YOUR SOL!**
First a list of what you will need.
a) 8 M5-.80 x 10 Machine Screws #138433
b) 16 #10 Flat Washers – Nylon #139065
c) 16 5mm Flat Washers – Metal #138319
d) Artic Silver thermal compound
These part numbers for Lowes and names were taken from 'Lawdogs' method for the X Clamp Fix.
What he didnt mention is you'll need some articlean or isopropl alcohol. (90% or better is recommended)
Also you will need Q-Tips and a lint free cloth (if you can't find a lint free cloth coffee filters work well for this) Most of any store will have it. Articlean is the better way to go if you have availbility to it. Or you can order it online. Check google.
Note: Drilling "may" be required for the screws to fit. (drilling in the metal casing not your motherboard)
Next, take your 360 apart. There are also various guides of doing this. The most profiecent way of taking your system apart 'on the cheap' is using an old CD/DVD-RW spindal cover. What you will want to do is cut the spindal into a tool using the small teeth on the bottom to snap off the locks on the back of the system. Before doing any of this here are the steps you need to take.
1.) Remove your harddrive (if applicable)
2.) Remove your faceplate
3.) Remove the upper and lower grill pieces
4.) Pop the locks in the back using the spindal tool
5.) Unsnap the prongs in the front holding that side of the casing and remove the bottom.
After removing the bottom of the casing, you will expose the screws on the bottom. You will need a T8 and T10 Torx drivers to remove all of these screws. Lets begin.
Start off by removing the 3 screws in the front holding the RF Module, after these are removed the RF Module just pulls out. (this will use a T8).
Remove the 6 (T10) Screws holding the top of the casing. This will now expose you to the motherboard. Remove your DVD Drive by pulling the power and sata connections from the back of the drive.Remove the white shroud which directs air flow.Remove the fans, by unclipping the power connection and carefully
pulling it from the case (requires very little force pulling the metal
casing up from the fan)
There will be a total of 6 (T10) long screws which hold the top of the casing. 9 Smaller (T10) screws which hold components from the motherboard, and 8 (T8) screws which are associated with the X-Clamp (in rare occasion you can just tighten them down and it will sometimes fix the rrod)
Remove the remaining screws from the bottom of the casing. Carefully slide your motherboard from the metal casing. Have a small area with a towl or blanket to rest your motherboard on while performing this fix. It may be a good idea to have some sort of anti static wrist band on, or even an anti static mat. Its not required. But if you want to go that extra mile.
Place your motherboard top side down onto your working area. And here you have the X Clamps. Let it be known, You CAN and WILL permanantely damage your system if you are not VERY careful with removing these. Surrounding these X Clamps mounts of delicate and sensitive hardware. If you don't think you can remove these clamps without damaging something around them, STOP NOW. Close up your system replace the sticker and send it back to Microsoft. If you wish to continue, Here is my advice for removing the X Clamps.
What you need:
1.) Flat head screwdriver.
Here we go...Investigating the X Clamps you will see they have a "V" looking shape that clips down onto the screws from the heatsink. Looking at the Clamps from the angle you should notice there are small parts of the "V" that stick out on both sides. Place the screwdriver between that and the top of the clamp, and carefully rotate the driver (not applying much force) to release the clamps. You will need to unsnap 3 of the legs before you can remove the clamps properly. When unsnapping the 3rd, Try keeping a hand on the clamp to make sure it doesnt jump off and damage anything around. After removing both clamps. Flip the motherboard over and you should be able to pull the heatsinks up exposing the processor and gpu. Heres where the fun begins. Start cleanin those bad boys off!. Start with the heatsinks. Use a credit card, putty knife, or something with a flat even surface to scrape as much old thermal paste from your sinks as possible. Apply the Articlean or Alcohol onto your cloth. And keep rubbing the sink until all the old compound is removed. You may need to scrape it a few times again afterwards with your putty knife, credit card or whatever flat edged device you may have. Once you have both sinks clean and prepped. Move to cleaning your CPU and GPU. Be very delicate with these. Don't be afraid to apply a small amount of force to get some of the stubborn compound off. But don't go Hulk Hogan on it either. :) You will probably notice there is compound that has been squished out amongst other parts of the unit, Clean it off.... It is a long painstaking process but take your time. Be gentle. And it will all be over before you know it.
So you've managed to get this far with out f**king something up?
CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!!! on to the next step
Remove the screws going into the heatsinks. A pair of plyers will do. I'd recommend using an adjustable wrench or plyers.
**Heres a prime time to check and make sure your screws will go through the metal casing without drilling if you havent already :)**
Replace your motherboard into your metal casing. Do not screw anything down yet.
**REMEMBER AFTER CLEANING YOUR HEATSINKS AND CHIPS DO NOT! TOUCH THEM WITH YOUR BARE FINGERS IF YOU ACCIDENTLY DO NO SWEAT JUST BE SURE TO WIPE IT OFF WITH ALCOHOL**
Applying your thermal compound..... Alot of people say to use a razor or straight edge to evenly spread it out. Unless you're really good with it. Its a pain in the you know what!. What I do is. Apply a VERY small amount of the compound to the die of the CPU or GPU whichever is applicable for the one you're currently working on. Put your finger into a plastic bag. A Sandwich bag works well in this situation. Lightly spread the compound out. And the best way to fill in everything is just to very lightly tap your finger across. This is the best way i've found to spread the compound and it works great. Remember you're only going to need a VERY SMALL dab of thermal compound. As small as a grain of rice. Is PLENTY. Because what you're doing with this compound is nothing more than filling microscopic imperfections in your sink. So your processor or gpu can transfer the heat more proficent. Once you have done this. Before you put your heatsinks back on. Take a small tab of your thermal compound just a touch is good enough. Rub it into the area (using your finger in a plastic bag) where the sink meets the die of the cpu/gpu. Then wipe it to a haze. After you've got it on just take your cloth and wipe it off.
Now. Time to prepare your screws. Take your screws put 1 metal washer on followed by the nylon washer (you'll want the nylon washers between the metal and your motherboard) The reason for these washers are spacing!. Repeat the step to all 8 of your screws. At this point you should have 2 washers on each screw. 1 nylon, 1 metal. Push the screws through the bottom of your metal casing and through your motherboard. Its a good idea to put a piece of tape over each screw to keep it them from falling out when you flip over your system to start the screws.
After you've got 2 washers on each screw. they're through the board and taped down. Time to put more washers on!. Apply a nylon washer down then a metal washer. This is a crappy demonstration of how it should be the, the | are nylon washers and || are metal washers. it should look something like this.
Outside of metal casing | || (metal washer touching your screw) Inside | || (metal washer touching your heatsink when you apply it)
Once you've done this. Line up one of your heatsinks with your screws. Holding the heatsink onto the screws. Remove 1 piece of tape. Thread the screw. Once threaded. Remove another... etc... repeat the step. You've got all 4 threaded?... Tighten them down. Snuggly and evenly. When doing this you'll want to tighten them in a star pattern to make sure the force is even. Repeat with your other heatsink.
Do not overtighten them. This just puts more stress on your motherboard (which can also crack or break it). Which is the main reason you're doing this fix to begin with.
Replace the remaining screws in the bottom of your motherboard. and reassemble your system. After you've got it all done. And hooked up you should see the beatiful glow of the green ring of light. :) If you haven't. You CAN do the bake trick and it WILL work. But this will not mean your system is fixed. You will only get temporary enjoyment before the lights haunt you again. So if you've been able to do this fix. Without having to drill holes in your metal casing?. Keep a close eye on your X Clamps. If the red lights come back again. You can try re-snugging your heatsink screws, or rebaking the system. If all else fails. Dissasemble. Reapply the X Clamps. And put your warranty sticker back on (how to at the end of this guide). Please read my following statement before continuing to the end.
I'm not telling you to do this, nor am offering you information to be used in an illegal manner. I do not condone making profit from this information, you agree you are taking full responsibility to possible loss or damage of your system when using this guide.. I am NOT a certified microsoft technician. I'm only offering advice. Something thats worked for me that may work for you.
**REMOVING AND REAPPLYING YOUR STICKER**
You will need a hairdryer or heatgun (on low setting) and a piece of wax paper.
Very simple!. Heat the sticker untill the glue has become warm enough seperate from the console without damaging the sticker. Apply it to the wax paper. Before you reapply the sticker. Use the same technique removing it from the wax paper. Before pulling it off to reapply to your system.
Thanks to everyone who's read this guide. I hope this guide has helped everyone who's taken the time to read it. I hope there are hours of gaming ahead of you, and you're able to use this. Or other information regarding this technique to permanantely fix your system.
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