Full Guide To Authentication of EVISU Denim !!!
Once upon a time there was a real connoisseur of jeans, Hidehiko Yamane – as expert and demanding as only certain Japanese “otaku” can be. He soon realized that quality denim, the original, was impossible to find on the market. During one of his trips looking for vintage pieces, he came across a 1950s American loom capable of weaving forty metres of a “selvedge” denim a day. Yamane had an idea: why not make exceptional jeans for connoisseurs like himself? So the Evisu adventure began. He originally called his jeans Evis, after the Buddhist god of prosperity, and they were made in Osaka from pure American cotton. He personally painted his famous seagull logo on each article, a long and expensive process that only produced a dozen jeans a day.
"Rolls Royce of Jeans", the EVISU brand was founded in 1991 in Osaka, Japan by Hidehiko Yamane.
Yamane-san was trained as a tailor and his love for vintage jeans
led him firstly, to the vintage clothing import business and then, to start putting together the necessary information required to reproduce vintage-style jeans.
This required the gathering together of all the various parts of machinery, none of which had been produced for at least 40 years.
Evisu (also written as Evis or Ebisu) is the name of the Japanese Buddhist god of money who is usually portrayed with a fish and fishing rod. This name was selected for the new venture as money and fishing. Originally EVIS was changed to Evisu when the brand expanded worldwide in 1991 because the previous brand name was said to be too similar to "Levi's."
Evisu or Evisu Genes is a Japanese clothing company that specializes in producing premium denim wear through traditional, labor-intensive methods.
Please read this first !!!!
One of the wonderful things about eBay is that while we don't actually know who we are dealing with... through the feedback system, you can get to know who you are dealing with. Obviously, we'd all like to buy from 100% positive sellers with 10,000+ feedback scores next to their UserIDs, but this is rarely the case. There are a few red flags to keep an eye out for that evryone should know please read below.
PRIVATE FEEDBACK sellers: This may fly in other categories, but when you are looking to buy authentic EVISU, not being able to see the seller's feedback is just unacceptable(and is shady). It is important to see not only a seller's total score, but also the individual comments.
NEGATIVE FEEDBACK for authenticity: Be very careful to scrutinize feedback for signs that the seller has sold fakes in the past... this is NEVER a good sign also watch out for fairly new sellers since they dont have a lot of feedback's they the seller have no prior experience with selling high end denim like EVISU and you might want to becarfull
ZERO FEEDBACK for selling: The only way to get to know your seller is by watching what they buy and sell on eBay. If there is no feedback record, you have nothing to look at in making the determination of whether you want to trust the person with hundreds of dollars. Be careful since EVISU is counterfeited a lot please be very careful with your purchase.
MAKING OF EVISU GENES
The Japanese line has 4-5 basic standard lines of denim quality and is denoted by a number on the patch. so No.0, No.1, No.2 and No.3, No.4 and No.13
No.0 - It's like a evisu prototype denim, seems very rare/limited and is meant to be more irregular and textured than the no1. Really no one knows much about it.
No.1 - 14.5oz. selvedge and made in japan. high quality and is not pre-shrunk (unsanforised), is slightly darker than no.2
No1Special is unsanforized japanese selvage denim woven in Osaka by Kaihara Corps Ltd. Unsanforized denim is the most authentic cloth, as used on the very earliest jeans. It has a slightly hairy surface and the warp and weft yarns are quite loose. When it is first washed, the yarn fibers will contract, making the denim much tighter, and causing the garment to shrink. Another effect will be leg twist or skewing. Skewed legs are a sure sign of true vintage jeans. No1Special is cut in shrink-to-fit blocks (e.g. 0001stf), so you should buy your normal size for preshrunk jeans and hot soak them before wearing. We recommend soaking them at one of the many hot springs about 100 km south of Osaka, but if that’s not possible, a warm bathtub soak and an overflowing cup of sake for yourself will suffice.
No.2 -14.5oz selvedge and made in japan. high quality but may be not as dark or seen as good quality as No.1 and is preshrunk (sanforised)
No2 denim is identical to No1Special, but sanforized. Woven in Osaka Japan on half-width shuttle looms with signature pink selvage. No2 is a mid-to heavy-weight 13.7 oz denim and has a deep blue tone with a very slight red caste. The sanforization process was invented by Sanford Cluett in 1933 and involves passing the unfinished cloth through heated rubber rollers, causing the fibers to shrink and stretching the fabric into a stable state, which will not alter with washing. Sanforizing also prevents the jeans from skewing (twisting). Lastly, the singeing process takes off the hairy surface: before 1933, all denim was unsanforized (like our No1Special).
No.3 - mass produced outside of Japan in CHINA. medium grade quality and not selvedge. (sanforised)
No3 is the original famous Evisu Heritage selvage denim, previously known as D85. No3 denim is woven from unbleached ‘mother cotton’, and the warp is rope dyed with indigo to an extremely deep blue, almost black tone. Rope dyeing is so-called because the cotton yarn is twisted into a ‘rope’ which is dipped into a vat of indigo before being brought up high to the roof of a dye-house, allowing the unstable indigo compounds to oxidise on the cotton, turning it from a murky brown-green color to the deep intense blue of fine selvage denim. No3 can be recognized by the unusual ‘rising’ sun red and white selvage.
No4 is another brand-new denim specially developed for the Evisu Heritage Spring 2009 collection. The denim is woven from open-end yarn, with no slubs where the yarns are knotted together during weaving. Open-end yarn denim has a smoother, flatter surface than ring-spun denim. Like all Evisu Heritage denim, No4 is woven on half-width shuttle looms. Shuttle looms use a singe continuous weft yarn which passes backwards and forwards across the warp threads, making a clean woven selvage, unlike modern projectile looms, which shoot the weft yarns across the warp one by one. No4 denim is woven with a classic redline selvage.
No13Left is a close reproduction of the early denim used by Lee from the 1910s onwards. It is a left hand twill cloth, which is identifiable by the diagonal twill lines, which run from top-left to bottom-right. Unlike normal right hand twill denim, which is the opposite, left hand twill denim wears down even softer than its’ right hand equivalent. No13Left is green caste indigo, and has mismatched selvage: one side is plain white, and the other side has a single warp thread of indigo woven into it, staying true to the specifications of the original Lee version. Lastly, jeans cut from No13Left denim have the leather patch sewn on the left side of the waistband.
Evisu are just another repro company in respect to their fits. all vintage cuts.
Evisu Genes (washed denim) is our opening price-point collection that is a contemparary street wear collection tailored for all age groups from teen to older gentelman who is looking for a beautiful washes in varies fits (slim, skinny, regular straight leg, etc..)
In the Heritage collection, EVISU have experimented with varies fits as well. EVISU main and staple fits are: 0001- this is a 0001 (Regular fit)-this is EVISU classic Heritage fit, a more modern take on the classic Japanese 2001 cut, pioneered by EVISU founder Yamane-san, and inspired by original 1940's Levi's overalls: it has a lower waist, is fitted in the seat and thigh and has a slightly narrowed hem. 0005 (Slim Fit) - draws its silhouette from 1960's Wrangler cowboy jeans. It is similar to 0001, but with a slimmer leg and thigh. It is cut straight over the hips and waist with a higher rise. A particularly flattering fit. 0200 ('Modern Fit') - based of the vintage 0001 pattern, but updated slightly from the 1950's jean to an early 1970's feel. The waist is slightly lower, the hips are narrower, and there is less room in the crotch. The 0200 block has a straight legs, unlike the 0001 jeans, unlike the 0001 jeans, which are slightly tapered. This gives the illusion of a very subtle flare at the calf. 0004 (Wide Leg) - Established in 2008, the 0004 WORKER block has a wider, more relaxed thigh, falling from the classic 0001 round hip shape. The 0004 silhouette is inspired by workman's overall's, and it features chisel hip pockets, bartacked stress points, and X belt loops on the back.
Evisu denim is made on old style shuttle looms rather than modern projectile looms.
Cross thread in the old style weaving process goes back and forth during the weaving process. But modern projectile looms, shoot each cross thread through individually, hence the edge of the cloth is frayed rather than clean.
Traditional method was to have a straight outside seam and cut right up to the selvedge so that when you turn the jean up you see the two selvedge edges of the denim stitched together. You can also see it on the inside of the coin pocket.
Evisu chain stitch the hem which gives the thick stitch line visible around the hem when you turn the jean up. This requires a special machine which has not been produced for 40 years.
Evisu denim is indigo dyed by loop dying machines
Old shuttle looms have not been made for over 40 years.
Old Shuttle Looms make cloth about 30 inches wide.
Projectile Looms can make fabric 60 inches or even wider for much less money.
Evisu jeans has a minimum of 16 dips and some styles have 30 dips
Evisu need approximately 3 yards to make each pair of jeans.
All Evisu jeans are made of vintage selvedge denim.
Evisu has spent the last 10 years developing their jeans to be as authentic as today's vintage jeans can be.
WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SIZING OF YOUR EVISU GENES:
Denim woven on the old-fashioned looms has a loose weave and shrinks when washed. Therefore, Evisu jeans HERITAGE, GODHEAD and No.1 jeans need to be purchased in a size two inches larger than the desired size.
Repeated stretching and shrinking give the jeans a character that is unique to the wearer.
Evisu jeans instead of fading to white over time, they take on a unique greenish tinge that highlights the fabric texture.
"Wearing the jeans on the hips and rolling them up; this mode has become known as "Evisu style."
EVISU has 6 different lines in production
DELUXE EDITION !
Salvage denim produced by Kuroki Japan, one of Japan’s finest and most prestigious denim makers.
The Japanese selvedge denim that the Deluxe jeans are made from is produced by Kuroki Japan, one of Japan's finest and most prestigious denim makers.
Heritage Line includes all the selvedge denim. Denim woven using original model 29" shuttle looms. The selvedge denim is a more open with a strong indigo red caste due to the repeated dip dying of the yarn.
MEN'S MAINLINE !
Men's Mainline includes many new styles and cuts with an influence from American classics.
EVISU EUROPEAN EDITION !
Fundamentally Japanese in its use of denim, but Italian in its cut and style yet the shape is more European and refined.
EV GENES !
Ev Genes is playful, casual, and younger collection.
This is collaborations between EVISU and other diffrent name brands.
WASHING INSTRUCTIONS !
Your Evisu clothes should last as long as you do, if you wash them properly.
INDIGO, UNWASHED DENIM !
In a cold/cool wash: The waist will shrink 1 inch. The length will shrink up to 2 inches. The indigo dye will run and eventually fade with every wash. Deep dry or dry flat.
PRE-WASHED DENIM AND ALL EVISU EUROPEAN EDITION JEANS !
In a warm wash:The waist will shrink up to 0.5 inches. The length will shrink up to 0.5 inches. The dye will slowly fade in a hot or cold wash. While Evisu uses a variety of denim throughout each collection, the vintage Indigo and unwashed denim is the most traditional, and these tips will ensure their longevity.
WASH YOUR JEANS FIRST !
When you buy your jeans in the shop, there will be starch on the denim, making it feel very hard. Turn your jeans inside out and wash them in cold or luke-warm water. This will get rid of the starch in/on the denim and (in the case of non-shrunk denim) cause it to shrink so that you can cut the length. Your jeans will shrink even more if you use a dryer.
CUTTING THE LENGTH !
If you wish to cut your jeans to length, do so AFTER washing and drying them. Mr. Matsukura suggests the following style: "Just little gap between floor an socks. When you wear shoes it will be just right. If it is too long, damage fabric easily." You can also choose to turn the jeans up showing off your selvedge.
TO WASH OR NOT TO WASH !
Many people choose not to wash their denim fearing it will damage the fabric even when they are quite dirty. Mr. Matsukara, a shop manager in Japan, advises you to "buy few pairs of Evisu jeans and wash sometimes".
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR !
All Evisu tags have the word "jeans" spelled as "genes". Unless it is a tag from a particular store. Evisu DO NOT use the correct spelling.
Most Evisu Men's genes come with 5-BUTTON front closure, especially the raw denim genes.
The front buttons of Evisu Geans always have the word "EVISU" written on them.
Authentic Evisu buttons DO NOT come with china man or godhead.
All Evisu Genes ribbons and rivets on the inside and outside of the jeans either come with words "EVISU" written on them or Japanese letters.
All Evisu Genes have selvedge if they are raw, and if they are the EU Editions (European Edition) or non-raw denim they will have some kind of taping.
Most Evisu Genes should have a chain stitch. Chain stitch is on the inside of the jean. When you turn up the jean, the selvedge should show and on the opposite side to the selvedge there should be the chainstichin yellow or gold.
Most Evisu Genes usually have orange and yellow stitching around the genes.
All EVISU Genes are made from rope dyed indigo yarn which is partially transferable.
Most Evisu Geans have TWO tags attached. One tag attached to the right rear pocket.
Second one is on the waist on the back left side of the jean .
The tag has words "EVISU GENES" written, and a picture of a man painting EVISU logo on a pair of jeans. The inside of the tag has some pointers on how to spot fake evisu jeans.
The patch on the back should be made of leather.
Evisu does make shorts. However EVISU DO NOT make Daicock shorts with the paint that runs down the back of the legs (that appears as a large "M").
There are quick red flags to look for that will alert you to a fake without even studying the finer points.
Remember, if it seems too good to be true, it really is. EVISU jeans cannot be sold on ebay for $69 or $89 Retail price is calculated as 2 times the wholesale price. So if a pair of EVISU are originally sell for $400 then EVISU corporate sold them to the retailers for $200 and there is no bulk discount on any of the EVISU items.
Watch out for counterfeits.
Unfortunately, counterfeit Evisus have swept the market. Wondering if your pair is real? Well, Evisu offers free validation service. If you are unsure about the authenticity of an Evisu item, a shop or a website, email the Evisu company at info@evisu. com with the details of your concern or you can always ask me to authenticate the jeans for you since i have been selling EVISU for years i can tell fakes from real pretty good.
Try to stay away from the new sellers that just got into the high end denim retail selling. They expertise cannot be reliable because they only started selling and to sell EVISU you really need to know your denim. Make sure you are purchasing your EVISU items from a reputable seller or store.
Make sure that the sellers is using his/her own pictures to make sure they are in possession of the items. If they won’t show you exactly what you’re getting then they have something to hide !
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