then the probable cause is a loose or broken belt, a seized brushroll that won't turn freely, or,
a debris clog at the entrance to the tube, or inside of the tube.
To clean properly, brush rolls need enough bristle length exposed, to extend a little below the rug plate. Adjustment is made by rotating the brushroll's 2 end caps. One edge of the end caps will be marked "NEW" or "NORMAL", while the opposite edge of the end caps are marked "OLD" or "SPECIAL". Depending on the brush roll brand, at least one edge of the end caps will have a notch, or multiple notches, for quick identification in matching them so their edges will both face in the same direction.
When installing a brand new brush, position its end caps so that the edges marked "NEW" (or,
"NORMAL") will be facing downward, to be the edges closest to the carpet when vacuuming. As the bristles become worn with use, reposition the roller by rotating the two end caps 180 degrees so that the edges imprinted with "OLD" or "SPECIAL" will be the edges closest to the carpet when vacuuming.
If you've already previously rotated your brush roll's end caps and there is no longer enough bristle to extend beyond the rug plate, then you need a new brush roll.
Over time, long hair or threads may eventually accumulate behind the end cap and wrap around the bearing . . . . The end cap can be pulled off for removal of thread and hairs. It's important to check for this periodically (as is advised in the Oreck owner's manual) and clean out as necessary. If too much long hair gets wrapped around under the end caps, it can cause a roller to seize-up. That will cause the belt to burn from friction/heat, as the belt will still be spinning around but will be unable to move the seized roller.
Burning belt problem? Maybe you're using a generic that's too big.Some generic belts sold on the internet for Oreck® XL's are too large to last very long,
and have been known to slip and burn prematurely on many XL models.
The belts imprinted with "TO FIT ORECK / MADE IN AMERICA" are the most common oversize
problem among all the generics we've used. Likewise, the belts sold as being "compatible with
Oreck XL or Bissell" are also too big (i.e: larger than today's genuine OEM Oreck XL BELT)
Oreck® used to have a larger circumference OEM belt than what they sell today.
Oreck's XL belts today are more flexible and so are easier to install than their older ones were,
but, in making them more flexible, Oreck also reduced their belt circumference so that the belts
wouldn't slip and burn from the increased elasticity caused by the change in rubber composition
How the generic belt size problem occured:
The generic belt "TO FIT ORECK / MADE IN AMERICA" wholesaler(s) sell copys
matching Oreck's older, original larger-circumference belt size, BUT, those particular
generic belts are manufactured with a more flexible rubber composition than the
old Oreck OEM belts had back then.
(Too much flexibility = proper belt tension not maintained = belt slippage = burning rubber)
Oops! If one produces a generic vacuum belt, one needs to know it's elasticity
properties, its expansion characteristics at various temperatures, etc.. The inside belt
circumference must be correctly sized accordingly, so as to consider the very important role of
rubber flexibility interacting with adequate belt-tension, to achieve best belt performance and
longevity. (like Oreck did).
(All of these comments are our own opinions, learned from our own research and experience, and do
not come directly from Oreck®. .... We are not affiliated with Oreck® or any vacuum belt manufacturer.)