Minolta X-700 35mm SLR Film Camera Body Only

Type: Electronically governed 35mm single-lens reflex AE camera
Exposure-control modes:Fully programmed (P), aperture-priority automatic (A), and metered manual (M). Lens mount:Minolta SLR bayonet of integrally lubricated stainless steel; coupling for full-aperture metering, finder display input, and automatic diaphragm control, providing programmed or aperture-priority auto operation with Minolta MD lenses, aperture-priority auto operation with MC and other Minolta SLR interchangeable lenses/accessories; spring-return button for depth-of-field preview or stop-down meter readings with other than MC or MD lenses (standard lenses: MD 50mm f/1.2,f/1.4,f/1.7 or f/2). Exposure control and functions: Low-voltage, low-current computer circuit incorporating quartz crystal for sequential control to 1/30,000-sec. accuracy, large-scale ICs, samarium cobalt impulse-release magnets, and linear-resistance inputs) varies both aperture and shutter speed steplessly according to special "faster-speed" program in P mode, or varies shutter speed steplessly according to aperture set in A mode, to yield proper exposure for the film speed and exposure adjustment set; auto-exposure range: EV 1 to EV 18 (e.g., 1 sec. at f/1.4 to 1/1000 at f/16) at ASA/ISO 100 with f/1.4 lens; AE-lock device holds meter reading for exposure at that value regardless of subject-brightness changes. Shutter: Horizontal-travers focal-plane type; electronicall conrolled stepless speeds 1/1000 to 4 sec. set automatically with endlessly rotatable selector dial locked at "P" or "A" setting of fixed speeds 1 to 1/1000 sec. or "B" set manually at detented dial indications; electromagnetic shutter release locks when voltage too low for proper operation.Metering: TTL center-weighted averaging type, by silicon photocell mounted at rear of pentaprism for available light, measured full aperature for normal finder display, then at taking aperature for programmed/automatic-exposure setting/determination or stop-down display; by another SPC mounted with optic in side of mirror compartment for off-the-film light at taking aperture during exposure to control dedicated flash duration.
Film-speed range: ASA/ISO 25 to 1600 set by dial that locks at 1/3-EV increments. Exposure-adjustment control: Up to +- 2 EV continuous adjustment of P,A, or M exposure by dial that locks at zero position and each 1/2-EV setting. Mirror: Triple-coated oversize instant-return slide-up type. Viewfinder: Eye-level fixed pentaprism type showing 95% of 24x36mm film-frame area; magnification: 0.9X with 50mm standard lens focused at infinity; power: -1D, adjustable with accessory snap-on eyepiece lenses; Fresnel-field focusing screen having artificially regular-patterned matte field plus central split-image horizontally oriented focusing aid surrounded by microprism band, interchangeable with Type P1,P2,Pd,M,G,L,S or H screens at authorized Minolta service stations; visible around frame: mode indication (P,A or M), shutter-speed scale (1,2,4,8,15,30,60,125,25,500 and 1000) with LED setting indication, triangular over-/under-range LED indicators blinking at 4Hz, flash-ready signal, FDC signal, mis-set lens warning in P mode, battery check, f-number set with MD or MC lenses, and exposure-adjustment indication (LED blinking at 4Hz); display and metering activated by normal finger contact or slight pressing of operating button and continue for 15 sec., except go out after shutter release.Flash sync: PC terminal and hot show.

I have owned and used a Minolta X-700 since 1982. I got it as a beginning photography student at age 19; I'm not 49.At the time this was a highly sophisticated, state of the art camera, and in its hey dey it took spectacular pictures especially using a tri-pod and Kodachrome or some other slow speed film. However, there are several drawbacks to it and I basically learned to use this camera by trial and error and had many, many pictures turn out either underexposed or overexposed.Since the camera came with a feature which is supposed to prevent this, I could never figure out why my pictures didn't turn out perfect. Here are some of the drawbacks:
1. The on/off button is located on the aperture, it has three settings, the green on, on with the low light indicator (also green; beeps and flashes) and off which is black. When the sun is bright it is unreadable and I have often lost a picture by inadvertently switching it to the "off" or forgeting to turn it on. Well, I have lost the moment,on bright sunny days, especially while filming animals because I have inadvertently switched my camera off.When set in the "P" mode on the aperture, the camera automatically selects aperture, focus and shutter speed. You must also lock the lense, however as well as select the green "P" mode. I found the pictures taken with this setting are not very good, unless one has a dark filter screwed onto the lense and the picture is taken with a slow speed film like Kodachrome. With "A" mode you can change the aperture (amount of light entering the camera) while the camera accordingly sets the speed. There is a square button you push on the left side of the lense which usually darkens the view through the viewfinder if the light warning indicator beeps. However, it is highly subject to shadow and if you are taken a sunny picture while standing in a shadow it isn't reliable. I have had many countless pictures come out too dark by following the camera's low light indicator guide, and accordingly changing the aperture to the indicated speed setting. (It will flash on the correct speed setting through the viewfinder if set too high. It also has a circle with a line through it indicating shadows and it's for correct angle. If the bottom half of the circle appears dark, you are standing in a shadow which will affect the picture. Both parts of the circle should match, so you are supposed to point your camera higher or at a different angle. This camera also has a plus/negative setting the left side of the camera, i.e. 1+, 2+ 3+, or 1-, 2-, 3- etc.This feature was designed to control tone and speed, and was most useful with pan-x and the b/w films, though, I didn't use it much. With the subsequent development of sophisticated Another problem I experienced was the film guide or loading film when I installed it in my camera. You had to bend back the beginning of the roll and insert it into the winder. Many times the film failed to engage in the winder and I wound up with unused rolls of film, though the camera indicated the subsequent advance of film as if the film were winding. Also the rewind feature is manual, not automatic. You wind it back with a little knob that flips up.Since the rewinding is manual,you can either rewind after the camera indicates 24 or 36 exposures have been taken or until the advance switch (a bulky knob that sticks out) doesn't progress.However, don't be deterred by these little things as the camera is indeed worth its weight in gold! Still use it!

The Minolta X-700 is a great film camera with many features used by professional photographers yet easy to use for the beginner or student. It features three modes of picture taking:

PROGRAM - YOU JUST FOCUS AND SHOOT, THE X-700 SETS THE APERTURE AND SHUTTER SPEED FOR YOU.

APERTURE PRIORITY - YOU SET THE APERTURE, THE X-700 AUTOMATICALLY SETS THE SHUTTER SPEED.

MANUAL EXPOSURE - YOU SET BOTH APERTURE AND SHUTTER SPEED TO GET THE RESULTS YOU WANT.

Before you read more... understand... this is not one of the new, fancy digital cameras with auto-focus that so many people are using today. It is a manual focus camera (meaning YOU focus) which uses film that has to be developed. Many professional photographers still prefer film over digital. But understand you can not hook this camera up to your computer and download photos. The film has to be purchased, installed and after picture-taking removed and taken to a developer. Places like CVS, Wal-Mart, Rite-Aid all have developing services. And most places that develop this film will also be able to put your pictures on a CD which makes it easy to email them or publish them on a Website. I routinely get my film photos developed on CD only (no prints) for $1.99.

Okay... enough about film... now more on the camera... there are several items you should be aware of before buying one of these cameras on eBay.

1: SEALS: The light seals keep light from sneaking into the film chamber. Even if a camera has never been used, these seals deteriorate over time and need to be replaced. So always ask the seller about the condition of the light seals. If they are worn out they will be sticky to the touch and leave residue on the film chamber door. Ask your seller about the condition of the light seals.

2: CAPACITOR: These cameras are known for capacitors that wear/dry out and fail. When this happens the camera does not work. The symptom is... no shutter release... no film advance. There's nothing wrong with the film advance. It's just that it won't advance until you release the shutter and the shutter won't release because the capacitors have failed. You can usually have this problem fixed for around $75 to $100 dollars but beware of this problem. If a seller says the shutter won't fire, it could be something as easy as changing the batteries, or it could be the camera needs new capacitors. Here's an easy way to tell the difference. If the LEDs light up in the view finder, that means the batteries are good and the camera is getting power so if the shutter won't fire, the problem is more likely than not, bad capacitors. If the LEDs don't light up and the shutter won't fire, there's a good chance the camera just need new batteries... (A76 1.5V) which can be purchased on eBay for very reasonable rates.

3: VIEW FINDER:
Ask sellers if the viewfinder is clear and free of scratches. While this would not affect picture quality it is kind of annoying to see specs of dust and scratches while trying to compose your shot.

A good seller should provide photos and descriptions to answer these questions, but some people do not have the time or expertise so often times you need to ask. Their answers will tell you a lot about not only the camera… but also the seller.

NOTE: Have a look at some of the other X-700 reviews... notice one of them looks extremely similar to mine? Hmmmm. I wonder why people do that? Can't they write their own review?

After shooting some snapshots with your point&shoot camera or joining photo club in high school, you might want to take your photography to the next level. The options you can consider are buying a 35mm SLR or a DSLR or a medium format camera. Medium format is not as common as 35mm SLR/DSLR, so I've never considered buying a medium format.

After doing some research, I found that Minolta manual focus line was the best way to go. Minolta produced superior optics at its golden age(in the 70's), but couldn't compete in the digital age and left photo business in 2006. Minolta manual focus lenses are optically and mechanically excellent but they cannot be used with today's digital cameras. Minolta changed lens mount when it switched to autofocus cameras and no other brand's cameras support minolta's manual focus lenses. Minolta manual focus lenses cannot be used with other brands' cameras even when they are used with adapters, because minolta's back focal length is shorter than other brand's standards. Because of this situation, prices of used minolta manual focus lenses are very low today. You can buy extremely high quality lenses on ebay for a few bucks.

So with a very little expense, you can have great optics. And it's the optics that determines the quality of the photo. You can buy a complete set of extremly fast minolta primes on ebay for one third of the price you'd pay for a dslr body and a zoom lens.

The Minolta X-700 was Minolta's most technologically advanced manual focus camera ever produced. Debuted in 1981, it introduced the "Program" mode to SLR cameras and offered through-the-lens (TTL) flash metering, greatly simplifying the photographic process for millions of people. However, the model does have some drawbacks in its design.

Positives of the model, relative to the other Minolta models out there:
- TTL flash metering. This allows automatic and more precise output of flash no matter whether the flash is direct or bounced.
- The program mode is a benefit to some. I personally never use it.
- Metering is fairly accurate.
- Ergonomically better than the older straight rectangular body designs.
- Generally a reliable camera.
- The price is right - for what you get the X-700 really is a good value.

Negatives of the model, again relative to the other Minoltas:
- Shutter curtain is a relatively cheap cloth design allowing only 1/60 sec flash sync (only the XD series offers a better one, though).
- Light seals will need to be replaced on most bodies you find on ebay. Not a tough job, and anyone can do it, but you've got to get the material and it takes a few minutes.
- Sometimes the capacitors on the camera go bad. You can solder new ones in if you have the skill.
- Does not offer metered manual exposure (set the camera to manual and the camera would tell you if you're over or under exposed)

If you're buying into the Minolta system, other cameras you might consider are the X-570 (also a TTL camera; adds metered manual; my personal favorite), the XG series (a budget option which is less reliable and has fewer features; avoid the XG-A), the XD-11 or XD-5 (better shutter and build quality, no TTL flash). See my guide on the Minolta system for some more options or see www dot rokkorfiles dot com.